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My '16 690 Duke Race Bike

94K views 194 replies 27 participants last post by  locutus 
#1 · (Edited)
There are enough people asking me questions about racing this bike, so I'll post up everything I learn about racing the 690 here.

To start: I bought the bike in Aug '16 and raced the last 2 rounds of the season. The bike was immediately fast in stock form, but I still need to drop ~1 second to steal the lap records out here in Colorado. It's good enough to win anyway.

It's race-able completely stock, but you really need rearsets if you don't want to grind your feet off. I added motohooligan straight pegs and Duke R rearsets but still managed to grind pegs a little bit with stock suspension. Race brake pads will also help a ton, the stock ones are crap.

Installed Parts:
KTM Powerparts tuning kit (Akrapovic, airbox, sas delete)
EBC GPFA brake pads
Duke R rearsets
HF Carbon bellypan
KTM bellypan brackets
Motohooligan non-folding pegs
Driven SX Handlebar
Driven Brake Lever Guard
Driven SBK Grips
Andreani Cartridges from Boulder Motor Sports
Custom brake lines and abs delete from Boulder Motor Sports
Powerparts number plate
Evotech RC390 toe guard
Shorai Battery
Nitron R2 Shock
Pirelli SBK slicks
Motorex fluids
KTM Powerparts engine covers Clutch and ignition
Low temp thermo switch
KTM Akra fuel map
KTM Crash bars
Powerparts racing shift lever (GP Shift)
Custom Ohlins Steering Damper from Boulder Motor Sports
R&G Akrapovic exhaust guard
KTM Powerparts track pack
KTM Powerparts abs dongle



For fun, here's my buddy and me racing our 690s (camera is on my bike). There's a lot to learn if u look close.

 
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#2 ·
Today I started installing the Akra / tuning kit. Set aside several hours for the work.

The Akra weighs 11.7lbs, the previous owner installed a Yosh slip on. I saved 6.2 lbs by replacing it with the akra.

The rear subframe only weights 8 lbs, and it holds up very well to crashing. The OEM battery weighs 8.1lbs, I'll be replacing that soon. The battery tray weighs 1lb. So in all, the rear end is 9 lbs without the battery, so I don't feel motivated to rebuild the whole rear end to save a pound or two.

I also got my forks back on after having Boulder Motor Sports install the Andreani carts. I hope to test that out soon. The OEM forks would wallow pretty bad when I initiated brakes with any lean angle, and also did it when trail braking over bumps. It was controllable but far from ideal, I had to be very careful when riding at full pace.

More to come soon

 
#10 · (Edited)
Looking for a shark fin/guard myself. Didn't see the link for that though. Can you post?
Link for the rc390 toe guard: http://www.evotech-performance.com/ktm-rc-390-toe-guard-2014-onwards

You'll have to leave off one of the plates because the hole will be slightly below the hole in the swing arm (you'll see when you get it), then just get 2 lock nuts for the screws to hold the shark fin part. I'll post a pic when I finish modifying mine.

Driven also makes one, but you'll have to drill and mount the screw receivers to the swingarm. Driven toe guard.
 
#5 ·
Great job getting the hardware running all the stock stuff, Techno.

I plan to run a few races with AHRMA next year, if everything falls into place the way it should. My classes will be Sound of Singles 1 and Sound of Thunder 2.
I am in IL and will race at Gingerman and Road America, which are local to me. What classes do you run in and with what organization?

Also, I'm looking for some replacement solid pegs as I ground one side down in a lowside late last year. That link you posted says 1290 SD, but I assume they work fine with your rearsets, yes?

What tires and compounds did you run and how did they perform?

Thanks
 
#7 ·
I race in the MRA, and will also race as a guest with Utah sba and Chuckwalla. My main classes are lightweight GP and endurance (SV 650 classes), as well as supertwins U, thunderbike, and FC (singles). A local buddy of mine will be doing AHRMA this year so you may see him out there. I'd really like to do Barber, we'll see how much money I have at the end of the season.

Yea those Motohooligan 1290 pegs will fit, he just doesn't have them listed for 690.

I ran the Pirelli Superbike (I think SC2 - harder compound). I was really happy with them, they had a lot of pickup out of the corners, and when they do let go, it's really controllable. I got them from these guys: Sol Performance. I hope to try the softer compound this season, since they weren't available last minute last season.

Cool. For sure that is nicer than the white plastic. Thanks for the link on that.

What gearing do you run for HPR?
Stock gearing is fine, I may try +1 just to see. My video above shows a good amount of time in 6th gear on the straight. I believe Driven Racing makes a sprocket for the 690 smt / adv that will fit the 690 the same, so I'm going to see if I can get my hands on them. They just don't list any of that on their website.
 
#8 ·
I have uploaded the pirelli compound chart as it is not quite as simple as hard /soft compounds. Obviously everyone will have a preference in what they use but this is a guide for more specific conditions. Different tyres for different tracks. Phillip Island is a harsh surface and destroyed my SC1 rear and I should have changed the tyre for the second race day. So I will be using an SC2 this year. The SC2 worked well at Sydney Motorsport Park and has worn perfectly and will get another showing next month. Mind you the temps were in around 28' celcius on these days. Wakefield Park is a smooth track and when we race there the temps are ususally around 10' celcius so an SC1 would be a better option. Dont know what your tracks are like over there but have a look at the site as it also covers tyre pressures etc.
 

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#11 ·
I couldnt find one in a catalog for the 690 so I fabricated one will post a pic tomorrow. It scratched up a bit after the crash but cost me nix and does the job. That evotech one does look the part.
 
#12 ·
Needs to be taken off and repainted but it does the job. Got a bit scratched up in the spill at eastern creek, tidied it up a bit for the time being with a marker but it passes the scrutineering and hip pocket test.
 

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#14 ·
The thing I found good is that I didnt need to drill into the swingarm. I bent the tabs to go on either side and it bolts on to the spool. A bit of pre school engineering , cut a template from cardboard first then from aluminium.
 

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#18 · (Edited)
The most comfortable handlebar I've found is the Driven SX handlebar. It has less rise than the OEM bars, but about the same amount of pullback. I also tried the superduke bar from the powerparts catalogue and started getting some bad arm pump. The superduke bar has a lot more pullback and slants to the outside. You would think more pullback would be more comfortable, but it actually caused a lot of pain. If you look at my profile pic (that's the driven sx bar), you can see that if there was more pullback on my right hand I would have to bend it inward at an odd angle, not good.

superduke bar closest to me, compared to OEM:





Driven sx bar compared to OEM:

 
#19 · (Edited)
I also got the Driven brake lever guard attached, which needed these adapters to fit in the sx handlebar. Also the Driven SBK grips are very plush. I may try the diamond thin grips next. The KTM lever guard is partially plastic, which is a joke.




I took a dremel to the throttle tube to smooth out the bumps. There's a small gap where the throttle tube notch sits in the housing which causes throttle play. Since it's not cable driven, there's no good way to get rid of that throttle play. I don't want to try to put anything in there in case it gets loose and causes a stuck throttle. I'll leave it a lone for now.

 
#24 ·
For you guys running Pirelli slicks, what kind of tire life are you seeing?
About to mount up an SC1 front and SC2 rear and trying to work up a
tire budget for this season.

I know there are many variables, but some
feedback, with qualifiers, would help out. Thanks
 
#25 ·
I would say you have hit the magic combo. Depending on track surface you should get 3 x 2 day race meetings from a set, some have completed 5 x 2 day meetings, they still had plenty of rubber just the heat cycles that they go through is up to the individual. I have done 3 x 2on my front and 1 x 2 on the rear and will have these for next fortnights race. I previously had an SC1 on the rear at Phillip Island and poor suspension which chewed it up. Depends on how serious you are whether you want to change tyres every meeting or not. A mate of mine would do practice on the previous race tyres and then change to new ones to qualify and race that weekend. He would then keep those tyres on for the next meeting practice and so on.
 
#26 ·
Thanks Jordo. I just picked up some dual temp warmers, so hopefully the heat cycles will
be kept to a minimum.

Last question. What pressures are you running and when? Cold? Just after you take off
the warmers before going out for a session? When you get back to the paddock afterwards?

Just trying to get a starting point. I have never run any type Pirellis in my life. Always did
Michelin and then Contis most recently (because of the Finn).
 
#27 ·
Last question. What pressures are you running and when? Cold? Just after you take off
the warmers before going out for a session? When you get back to the paddock afterwards?
I see that this is directed at Jordo, but may I say, that is a very personal number and changes on the day.

I rode trackies (not raced) in moderate to high temps with a Duke III rider and we NEVER agreed on tyre pressure.

From memory I ran pressures ranging from 25 - 30 psi with Dunlop slicks
 
#28 ·
Yeah, I realize there will be variances, based on ambient temp, track material and condition, suspension,
and most importantly, tyre manufacture and model.

That's why I am keen on getting info from the guys running the Pirelli Superbike slicks specifically.
Pirelli has their recommendation of 33/27 psi hot F/R, but I don't know if that matches up with the
experiences of Gen IV racers.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I was working with the head of pirelli road racing north america during the last round last summer. I started (hot off the warmers) at 31 front, 26 rear, 71 degree track. Had trouble getting heat in the front tire (only 150 degrees coming off the track), dropped to 30/24 by the middle of the day, 91 degree track. I found 30/24 good given the track temp and surface condition (moderately aggressive surface). Keep in mind this was all at full race pace on the SC1/SC2 slicks. I think I get 3-4 days out of a rear, and about 5-6 out of the front without going to check my takeoffs in the closet. But I also like to be on fresh tires more often since I'm competing. And yes, Boldor is right that it can change a lot based on many variables

Feel free to get a hold of them and tell them that you're running the same setup as Joe Clark and want some pressure info: https://solperformance.com/

I loved those pirellis, very predictable and strong out of a corner
 
#30 ·
Hey Fly,

Started with with 30F / 26R but as with technojoe i had issues with getting heat in the front and feel when turning in. Now I run 28F /26R seems to work for me. I never check cold pressures so I would not be able to tell you. The thing I do though is check pressures when I get back in before putting the warmers on. The pressures should be close to what you first set them at. If not you should add or take out to get the balance. This is where the track temps and surface impact on your base settings. I am racing on a bit of a budget and for fun whereas Joe is more serious and I agree you will always get better tyre performance the fresher they are..hope this helps
 
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#31 ·
I worked on direct brake lines last night (ABS bypass). I plugged the abs unit, and used a dummy banjo to keep that sensor on there. I believe the front brake line will work if I just re-route it directly to the master cylinder. I was going to originally use the rear brake line on the front but it's way too long.

I also think I may have done the recall work on the abs unit + wiring harness by zip tying two of them out of the way. I'm not sure though until I see the service bulletin.

 
#39 ·
Joe,

nice work. I too have been disappointed by the softness of the brake lever on all the bikes I have ever owned with ABS. Please post the service bulletin when you get it.

Separating the brakes from the ABS seems easy enough. doing it without generating fault codes or any resulting software penalties might be the trick.

thanks!
 
#32 ·
Like I said earlier, Joe, this mod is at the top of my list now. I have major reservations about the success of your mod since I believe that wheel speed is taken into account regarding ABS calculations, so it will be problematic just chopping only part of the function out of the ABS. But I have been wrong before. I remember both occasions :) I have had a minor fiddle with the ABS unit already, I had to replace the hose that goes to the front master cylinder and mildly re-route the adjacent hose. Have you blanked both? Or does the remaining banjo just head straight up and out of the picture? My hoses loop back and under the unit. I just worked out that we probably have different year models and probably different wire and hose routing.



Anyway, I am so interested in this, please quote me or message me so my attention is grabbed once you know how well (or not) your mod works.

Cred and admiration for having a go and clearing a "mod-path" for me.

Good luck!
 
#35 · (Edited)
I stopped by Boulder Motor Sports yesterday to finish the front brake. I tried to keep the existing line in place because it was the right length to go straight from the caliper to the master. However, there's a 90 degree bend in the banjo at the top, so I was unable to get it to bleed, even with a vacuum bleed at the shop. We found a brake line that was the correct size, so I didn't re-use any brake lines from the oem setup. I tried to match up one of the rear lines to the front, but since I kept handlebars it was slightly too short.

The difference in stopping power was night and day. The lever feels fantastic now, and I didn't need to spend any money on a Brembo master. I also rode on the new Andreani carts, they took out a lot of slop in the front end. I'm really happy with both mods.

I'm happy to have the driven sx bars back on there, and I like the driven grips too. It's hard to see in the pic but I mounted up the powerparts number plate, part number: 7600890100028A . The new akra sounds sick too. Lots of celebration wheelies today.

 
#36 ·
I am not the kind to often admire others bikes it is a little pervy to me. But yours it the second this morning that I am going to compliment, that looks tricked right out. In my usual fashion though, I will add some pointers. You NEED a zorst hanger, the pillion pegs look blaaaaah now on that machine. And you NEED, holy-schit, yep, nah, nah, yep, Maaaayte - otherwise it is perfect.

Now please get very fcuken specific about your bypass mod. Have you just blanked the ABS altogether?
 
#37 · (Edited)
#42 ·
Yea it's a lot stronger now, less spongey of a feeling.

Joe,

nice work. I too have been disappointed by the softness of the brake lever on all the bikes I have ever owned with ABS. Please post the service bulletin when you get it.

Separating the brakes from the ABS seems easy enough. doing it without generating fault codes or any resulting software penalties might be the trick.

thanks!
I did the tuning kit install at the same time. Right now the check engine light is on, so I'm unsure if it's from the ABS module or tuning kit. I believe it's the later because I left the sensor in the ABS unit so it shouldn't know any difference. I'm going to get it checked for error codes at the dealer next to see what the bike thinks is going on. I did have a problem changing the TC mode just now in the garage, but I think it was fine at the track the other day. I'll keep an eye on that and maybe a readout at the dealer will tell me more.
 
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