'13 690 Duke stalling at stops, and advice? - KTM Forums: KTM Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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'13 690 Duke stalling at stops, any advice?

Hey all, I have a Duke IV with performance cam, KTM akra tune, full akra exhaust and Kev's O2 mod. All pretty much installed since day one (2013). Last 2 days I rode to work it ran fine in the morning. Cool weather mornings. But after work (8 hours parked) it stalls on the way home when stopping at most lights. Today I had to keep the throttle up lest it stall at an inopportune time. I don't notice a power loss and it seems to ride well enough once I get going.

I am planning on checking valve clearance and plugs, but wanted to get an idea of likely culprits. Is there a fuel filter?

Also, my dash died last year and has not been working. No idea if the CEL is on but I'm taking the bike in for the recall next week and I'll have them check it. But it has been running well until now so I don't suspect a problem.


j

Last edited by schnellschnell; 05-08-2017 at 06:42 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 12:54 AM
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man I've been having a similar issue, still haven't figured it out. replaced filter, pump, plug caps, no dice. eying the ecu now.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I checked the valve clearances and only the exhaust were slightly out of spec. A bit too much clearance so I changed the shims. Also changed the outside plug as that is the only one I could get in time. The old one didn't look terrible but I swapped anyways.

End result was that the engine is a bit quieter at idle. On my test ride it didn't stall, but it sounded like it was thinking about doing so at stops. So, better, but not great.

Then in a moment of curiosity I decided to shine a light in the tank to see if you can see the fuel filter. But strangely I couldn't see through to the bottom of the tank - it was a bit cloudy. I'm pretty sure it is water in the tank, as after an hour of sitting it was clear again. Give the bike a few shakes back and forth and it started clouding up again. We did have days on end of rain and noticed that there would be a fair bit of water around the tank opening when I checked the fuel level. I'll check the drain hose isn't clogged. Also I put in some conditioner that is supposed to help with water. Didn't have time to ride again yet though.

j
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:23 AM
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When I had water in the tank it would stall while cruising at low speed as well, accompanied by loud popping.

Drain can be visually checked after it rains - if its hooked up wrong then a significant amount of water piles up around the cap and you can sometimes see it flow right in when you open it. I also had issues with the cap seal itself, even with the drain working properly.

I don't think you can inspect the filter from above easily, it's made out of this really foggy plastic that you can barely see thru in direct light.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnellschnell View Post
Yesterday I checked the valve clearances and only the exhaust were slightly out of spec. A bit too much clearance so I changed the shims.

This is normally a sign that the rocker arm axis is faulty. The old ones the axis "shrunk"

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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ORB, how do I know if the rocker arm is faulty? Should I just replace it?

It is within spec now so I don't understand what you are recommending.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 02:13 PM
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I would dump the old fuel. do a 15min restart and then flog it

current -2007 690SM
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 02:15 PM
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you might have some faults but can you see them without the dealer check on the 2013?

current -2007 690SM
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:16 PM
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I had this issue all last year on my '14. I was determined to figure it out at pretty much any cost as my dealer was baffled also. Set up at the time the stalling began: '14 non-R, Akra Map, Rally Cam, DNA S2, stock header (48mm ID), GPR De-cat mid (52 mm ID), GPR can (54mm ID inlet), Kevs O2 mod, all SAS/cranckcase oil recovery/charcoal canister still installed and functioning, valve clearances all within spec. I believe our bikes are set up similarly, so heres what i did and some of the noticed results.
15 min idle reset: No difference
New gas: Little difference
Seafoam in gas: Noticeably smoother idle, less hesitation
DB killer in exhaust exit: No stalling, but ran like a fat pig with a broken leg
Diameter reduction/torque insert between mid pipe and can: Less stalling, but undesirable torque curve and unresponsive throttle
-Here's where I get frustrated and start throwing money at the problem!
New throttle body: No difference
Arrow one piece header (48mm ID full length, 54mm OD exit), re-packed GPR can: Stalling is reduced, but still happens, perfect torque curve for the street IMO
Removal and blanking of SAS, oil sep, charcoal canister: Incredible difference in hard de-cell engine braking predicability and perceived "smoothness" of throttle roll on, no de-cell popping or engine cut anymore, BUT still the occasional stall at a light
Removal of Kev's o2 mod, but keeping o2 sensor: Nearly resolved stalling issue, and smoothed out idle for months, then stalled once, BUT now Im getting close!
Removed and cleaned injector: And there it was, like a new machine! Have to settle the front back down in 1&2, and inadvertently hit the rev limiter in the first 3
No stalling as of yet, so after all that it seems SAS removal, O2 Mod removal, and injector cleaning (prob means I need a new filter) made the greatest improvements for me, hope this helps and saves you some time and frustration
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks @ttboy1911 , I was starting to get disheartened.

I was looking at the blanking plate - which one did you get? And do you need the harness to not throw a CEL?

How do you clean the injector? Something me as a shade tree mechanic can accomplish?


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