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Duke 690 rear shock removal

15K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  ktmdad55 
#1 ·
I'm heading to the shop soon to try and swap in an R shock on my Duke.

Looking at the stock one in there, it seems tight. I don't want to have to get the airbox out of the way or swing the rear subframe up. Is that necessary? I can't find info online about swapping rear shocks on this bike.
 
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#3 ·
Hope this info is useful...I took out the rear shock on my 2016 (to adjust preload) without removing the airbox or swinging the subframe. Remove all the lower links that seem to be in the way. It's a tight fit but can be done. The reservoir needs to point to the 10 o clock position (looking down on it from the rear).
 
#4 ·
Thanks!

Quick note, the stock unit's spring says 75-200 and the WP unit's spring says 75-185. The first number (75) is the spring rate in N/mm and the second number is the spring length in mm. For this bike the springs are meant to accommodate a 75-80 kg rider (165-175 lbs). I found definitive info on what the numbers mean here: http://www.ktmshop.se/documents/b49af87985f17dd5d618dc7ccc0c49eb.pdf

I managed to remove the stock unit just by undoing the two T50 bolts holding it in and by removing the lower linkage piece held on by two long 19mm bolts. I moved the unit all around inside the frame until it could be taken out via the space on top of the rear wheel.

Unfortunately getting the WP shock in was not possible that way, I tried a whole bunch of positions. The reservoir made it a tight fit, just 1cm more space upwards (where the airbox is) would have sufficed.

So to get the R unit in I took off the exhaust slip on and removed the two lower bolts holding the subframe/airbox. With a helper pivoting the subframe up I could finagle the R unit in place and bolt it in.

I noticed one of my lower linkage bolts, the one towards the front of the bike, was covered in surface rust. The inside of the linkage was as well. I hit it with a wire wheel and applied some grease, hopefully that'll keep future rust at bay.

I lucked out and Dave Moss happened to be hanging out at the shop while I was doing all this, so he tuned the shock for me! Real nice guy and eager to share his knowledge. Much appreciated his time.

Riding home it felt no different from the stock unit, but I will reserve judgement until I have a chance to take it on some fun roads. This has been a great learning experience.
 

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#5 ·
Thanks for the info.
I'm throwing around the idea of swapping out the spring on my '16. It feels a little under sprung to me and I'm about 230 or more with gear on.
I haven't searched for the answer yet, but is the preload adjustable on the stock shock? I may just be hitting the bump stop.
 
#6 ·
I don't think the stock shock is serviceable in any way, including changing the spring, but I could be wrong. I know it's not rebuildable since it doesn't have a valve. You may have to get a new one, but don't take my word for it.

However at your weight you are way over the stock spring's rating. As mentioned earlier it's meant to accommodate a rider of about 165 lbs. It does have adjustable preload but you'll be killing your back either way you set it because the spring isn't meant to handle that much weight. If you can't swap the spring on the stock unit you'll have to get a different shock and have it fitted with a correct spring.
 
#11 ·
Just a comparison, I bought a Wilbers shock with the spring set to my weight for $900 landed in Australia. The R shock from KTM I was quoted $1200. The standard shock was quoted $600 resprung but still with original internals. These are Australian prices BTW but I assume the comparisions would be similar. Mine is race only and I only have the one with preload and rebound adjustment so this would be more than adequate for spirited road riding.
 
#12 ·
I got my 2017 Duke 690 yesterday. I found the shock to be really pretty good on smooth twisties. But then I rode it on one of my favorite tight, twisty, up and down, patches-on-patches paved goat trails, and the shock worked well for a couple minutes, then it started losing damping. I suspect the oil inside had been beaten into a froth.

I ordered a Nitron R1 with proper spring for me as soon as I got home.
 
#17 ·
The only downside to Andreani is they seem to send out their forks with to stiffer springs, I gave them my weight and clicked on the road use option but still they are a bit stiff. I thought it was compression damping to start with but once I fully backed off the preload they are much better though still a bit too stiff.
I'm not sure about the 17 gearing but I just added 4 teeth to my rear sprocket and it's so much more fun [emoji48] Wish I'd done it sooner.

Sent from my NX700QC using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Old thread but I removed my shock last night just to see how to do it and it wasn't too bad. I just removed the 2 bolts and with jackstands under the foot pegs I removed the rear stand so the tire was on the ground. Then I angled the shock up and left into the engine so the bottom of the shock cleared the swingarm, then just pulled it out.
 
#21 ·
Nice tip Furadi

I changed my shock 4 years ago but didn't have the repair manual at the time, so used a squat rack and a winch to hold the rear up!

Since then I had pdf file of the Duke 3 (Same rear setup) so wanted to see the "official" way of doing it, but have since lost that on a device somewhere...

In the meantime I've amassed more equipment, jackstands being some of them, so will be using those tonight!
 
#22 ·
Another thread revival...

Just thought I'd share the method I used when removing the shock on my 2017 Duke R. I needed to do this as I sent the WP shock off to Gareth at Reactive suspension for a re-valve and also to fit a slightly softer spring (I found the stock spring too harsh for my 70kgs/154lbs and bony arse).

The big difference is that I have one of the Abba Stands company's Sky Lifts. With these you can lift the bike up in the air in one of three modes - level, 'stoppie' or 'wheelie'. I chose the 'stoppie' postion (with the rear of the bike almost at head height) and all I had to do was to remove the Akra can and then route a rachet strap through the rear wheel and round the subframe and tension it with the shock still connected. This stopped the rear wheel flopping down when the shock bolts were undone and also made removing the shock bols easier. With the shock bolts undone I simply ratchetted the rear wheel up almost to the full extent of its travel, and the shock slid out quite easily (and this was the R shock with remote reservoir). Having the correct kit makes a world of difference...
 
#24 ·
Do you keep him in your garage specifically for that kind of job? :)

I went to drop off a car gearbox at the garage yesterday for them to refurbish it and was waiting for help to get it unloaded. The proprietor said 'step away from the van, we have a special tool for that'. Next thing I knew this 20 stone bodybuilder guy picks it up like it's a box of chocolates and carries it into the garage...
 
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