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My '16 690 Duke Race Bike

94K views 194 replies 27 participants last post by  locutus 
#1 · (Edited)
There are enough people asking me questions about racing this bike, so I'll post up everything I learn about racing the 690 here.

To start: I bought the bike in Aug '16 and raced the last 2 rounds of the season. The bike was immediately fast in stock form, but I still need to drop ~1 second to steal the lap records out here in Colorado. It's good enough to win anyway.

It's race-able completely stock, but you really need rearsets if you don't want to grind your feet off. I added motohooligan straight pegs and Duke R rearsets but still managed to grind pegs a little bit with stock suspension. Race brake pads will also help a ton, the stock ones are crap.

Installed Parts:
KTM Powerparts tuning kit (Akrapovic, airbox, sas delete)
EBC GPFA brake pads
Duke R rearsets
HF Carbon bellypan
KTM bellypan brackets
Motohooligan non-folding pegs
Driven SX Handlebar
Driven Brake Lever Guard
Driven SBK Grips
Andreani Cartridges from Boulder Motor Sports
Custom brake lines and abs delete from Boulder Motor Sports
Powerparts number plate
Evotech RC390 toe guard
Shorai Battery
Nitron R2 Shock
Pirelli SBK slicks
Motorex fluids
KTM Powerparts engine covers Clutch and ignition
Low temp thermo switch
KTM Akra fuel map
KTM Crash bars
Powerparts racing shift lever (GP Shift)
Custom Ohlins Steering Damper from Boulder Motor Sports
R&G Akrapovic exhaust guard
KTM Powerparts track pack
KTM Powerparts abs dongle



For fun, here's my buddy and me racing our 690s (camera is on my bike). There's a lot to learn if u look close.

 
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#40 ·
Do you normally run DOT4 or DOT5.1?

When I last bled my brakes, it was done with fancy pants Motorex 5.1, and the difference from the 4 that was in there was immense. Much more solid feel. I don't have the balls to eliminate my ABS yet, due to living in Montreal, where we have to deal with little black traction gravel until the end of may.
 
#45 ·
Nice write up so far. I am thinking about one for the contingency I am just not sure how competitive it would be in our lightweight stuff. We have some fast superbike Svs and 1200cc air cooled ducatis. I am thinking the lighter weight and with good handling might make it competitive. Did you shorten the suspension travel at all? Have you had it on a dyno? why not run clipons so it is in a more natural roadrace position?
 
#46 · (Edited)
I've only installed the Andreani Carts up front just this past week, I put them back in at stock height and I'll get a test this Friday to decide what to do from there.

A local guy has a '16 with full akra and dyno'd at 71hp at Boulder Motor Sport (that's corrected to sea level). I don't believe he installed the akra map or any sort of tuning yet. I have the same system and plan to get the Akra map asap so I can put it on the dyno and go from there.

Competitive wise, it's close to the same as our SVs and 650s (I could get a slightly better drive), but I have not raced a SBK built SV yet, so I imagine that will have a little pull. A ducati 750 pulled on me, for reference. The 690 can get close to 300 lbs so that certainly helps, and makes for a big advantage in the corners. It's very easy to throw around. I don't know the power to weight figures for a SBK SV, but if you figure ~300lbs / 71hp you can get a reasonable guess.

I applied to Pikes Peak this year, and if I get in I'm not allowed to use clip ons. Even if I get denied, I don't feel like trying to mount clip ons and build a custom tank, I'm perfectly comfortable racing it the way it is. It does cause slightly more fatigue with your right arm being stuck in the wind, and I also have to start using tear offs because I'm getting a lot more bugs in my line of sight.

I wish I had numbers on a well known track for you, but the only lap times I can share are from High Plains Raceway and Pueblo, if those two mean anything to you. I'll be racing Miller full course this summer, and chuckwalla next month if I can swing it. Aiming for Barber vintage festival as well.
 
#52 · (Edited)
I took it out to the track yesterday. The new forks feel great at speed, and the brakes are a lot better. I had to take my bellypan off because it was dragging a bit next to the exhaust on right handers with a lot of lean angle. Then I started draging the exhaust a bit. I think I'm going to need a shock with adjustable right height. I also may need a steering damper, the front wheel was lifting in a couple places and occasionally giving me some headshake.





We can't get the R model in the USA, unfortunately

Have you ever ridden a 12-15 model with the pp cam? I'm curious as to how the newer motor behaves in comparison to the older "race" motor. Does '16 pull hard to redline, or is it more like the older model that had a great hole shot but died out a bit at the top?
I haven't ridden the old one. My guess is that the new one comes with that old cam already in it, but I have no idea.
 
#53 ·
About the revs from the new motor.
Im thinking only in a general mechanical way.
Shorter stroke helps faster higher revs.
Higher revs with less efficiency is a slow wind out rev.
To keep the efficiency in the higher revs the motor needs valve timing and openings to allow it to remain efficient.
Lighter bigger valves could allow for top end efficiency .
 
#57 ·
Interesting race weekend at Eastern Creek. Air temperature was 46'C or 115'F on Saturday and the track temperature reached 67'C. Qualifying was 3 laps and I was 3 secs slower than my best as there was differing feedback from the guys who had been out earlier and I wasn't sure what to expect. We were up for race 7 but the day was called after race 4 as 2 marshalls collapsed and there were concerns about rider safety. Sunday was a bit different 36'C track 52'C, only had 2 races due to a crash which ended the day early. Struggled more mentally than anything due to the heat and was 1.5 secs down on my best. A lot of the guys were running SC0 or SC1s and I was on the 2s which aren't ideal for those temperatures. Didn't have any issues so as I said it was more in my head. Both race starts were bad but past 4 riders by the turn 5 in both races but by then I had lost the tow from the pack in front Finished 3rd in the class for the day. As for the bike even in Saturdays heat the bike only reached 3/4 temp and that is running water only. A few guys have mentioned they overheat but while ever there is air flow they do alright. I have added a pic from the back of the pits, race days in Australia.
 

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#59 ·
A pic from the weekend
 

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#61 ·
There was a guy racing a III who didnt appear to have any issues either but they were only a 5 and 4 lap race so a 20min track day session may be different.
One of the guys was using this stuff could help the road guys during summer riding too.
 

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#69 ·
Yea, Kris won last year on his Brutale. I've raced him on closed circuits. He is exceptionally talented, and a two time pikes peak veteran now.

I have no idea how the other person was admitted on his 848 for middleweight, the limit is supposed to be 750cc. The stats on it aren't too far off the MV anyway.

The middleweight field is stacked. However, Pikes Peak brings an absolute ****ton of variables to the table. I'll just ride the best I can and make sure to bring it home.
 
#71 ·
Hey tecknojoe! I think I'm reading on your rear tire that it's dimension is 160. Is that correct? I was wondering what your experience was with 180 tires, since I'm seeing some guys putting them on even though that's not the dukes standard dimension. I'm thinking I would buy used tires from the 600cc guys which would be way cheaper than always buying fresh rubber. What's your thoughts?
 
#77 ·
I had a look and couldnt find anything on the rim dimensions, how bizarre, but the general consensus is a 5" rim can run 180 although I had a 190 on my 748 road bike just cos it looked cool. 190/200 should be for 6" rims. The question is , what benefits are you trying to achieve with the bigger rear tyre. Is it for racing or track days. Correct me if im wrong techno , but the US domestic racing series doesnt appear to allow many modifications and this may be outside the rules anyway. For small tight tracks the 160 would be in my opnion the best choice but for tracks with fast open corners the thought of a 180 is intriguing to say the least.
 
#78 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. My ambition was simply to save costs when doing trackdays/racing. I was thinking that if there is no major difference (handling/feeling/etc) between a 160 and a 180 rear tire, then why not. There are guys around here selling tires that they've ran for 1-2 sessions for $50, which is a huge difference compared to a new one for $250...
 
#81 ·
Sorry for the misinformation on the tyre sizes, I was a bit too intrigued about the 180 possibilities myself. The 180/ 190 senario was for a 5.5 inch rim not a 5. You would be able to go a 170 but these are rarer than the 160s. I ran a 170 on my bonneville instead of the standard 160 and the only way to upsize further was a 5.5 rim instead of a 5. If by some weird chance that a tyre fitter would fit it, and it did go on, I would not feel safe at track speeds in case the tyre un beaded itself ending in disaster.
 
#83 ·
Called my tyre guy to clear things up, "yes it will fit, no he wouldnt fit it, feel and structural integrity will be lost through distorted sidewall and shoulder of tyre. There are no benefits at all with going down this direction at all". These are his words not mine. As for the 5.5 rim a 180 to 190 is only 1 size up, a 160 to 180 is a considerable difference. I guess the 40 million dollar question will be answered when you try it. I would prefer to spend on the tyres than the repair bill on the bike if it goes wrong.
 
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#84 ·
Also on road use " fitting a tire to a non manufacturer approved rim " can be challenged and in some respects deserves blame (culpable).
Jordo is spot on , i did all the homework a while ago.
You have to look for a 5" fit tire with larger radius tire edges.There is 170 tires that can fit 5". Theres even 160 tires that when fitted look wider than other 160 tires.
 
#85 · (Edited)
In terms of racing theres clear evidence that the rubber compound , side wall strength , distance from edge to rim , firmness etc makes one tire better than others
Its true you dont want to be on a floppy sponge at full tilt.
Changing the load/shape values from a tire thats been designed to be most efficient using standard fitting is bro science.
For road use of street fighter look , thats a different story though. (bro science rules):wink2:
 
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