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Old 05-24-2011, 08:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default issues with performance and EFI light after SAS removal ...

Hey guys,

My 2010 RC8R started with a 500 mile break-in stock. I then installed the Akra exhaust from the club race kit and the air filter. Rode for another few hundred miles, then installed the Bazzaz Zfi and AFM with the slip-on base map. Ok for a while with a little backfiring. I finally got my dyno appt and decided to remove the SAS as noted in the club race kit. I now have very poor performance at low RPM and TPS seems to stick when slowing down keeping revs up when in gear after clutch disengaged (almost like a sticky throttle cable), but it idles when I go to neutral. EFI light flashes red at idle then goes solid when I start riding ... bike actually stalled a few times when starting from 1st gear.

I unplugged the connector to the SAS, removed the 3 hoses from the bike (2 from heads and one from air box, I put the SAS eliminator plates on then plugged the hole in the airbox with a threaded bolt.

I checked all connections at the throttle bodies as I had to remove the entire airbox to get to SAS easily. I disconnected battery during entire process, then I cleared the slip on map from the bazzaz and reinstalled it. Still have the problem.

Anyone aware of these problems with SAS removal on a 2010 RC8R? Just as an FYI I noticed in the 2009 RC8 service manual there was a connector inside the front right of the airbox near the throttle bodies that needed disconnecting to remove box, but there is no such connector in my bike.

Thanks for you help, need to get to dyno or I'm going to miss my track day !

David

Last edited by njythrde; 05-24-2011 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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you wrote you unplugged the connector to the SAS

that's the electical connection to the SAS solenoid. you need to put a resistor there to rid of the FI light. google search for the correct resistor value.
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you have gone this far.....I would just get the resister from radio shack and solder it. or buy a plug from motohooligan or others.
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default thanks for the response fast 4d!

I've heard of resistors causing problems as bad as ECU frying in the UK, so I'll stick with the OEM plug in as the bike is apart anyway. I found some tapered rubber plugs that seal the SAS plastic inlet tubes nice-nice, so I'll have to put the tank on in the morning and give her a start. Will keep you posted and thanks for your help !

See pic of plugged SAS here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/6275597...in/photostream

Also, I found a loose ground under the right ram air duct, that could have easily cause the weird idling and intermittent throttle response (I think).

Cheers,
DP

Last edited by njythrde; 05-25-2011 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default she's come back to life ...

... and breathing well again. The plugged SAS back on the back sis the trick, not to mention that loose ground ... be careful when removing items to route cables, check, double check and triple check allllll connections !

She's at the dyno now, we'll see if she's crying after the session or screamin' for more !! ;-)

Cheers,
DP
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Old 05-28-2011, 09:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I removed mine, and turned it off with the TuneECU software and had no ligts, I also removed the O2 sensors and turned them off. The SAS solenoid doesn't need to be plugged as there is nothing going through it once the hoses are removed, it is just a solenoid valve. The resistor would be harder to sort.

Google TuneECU and go read about it on Superduke.net. Very helpful.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Thanks for the advice ..

.. I've checked out the tune ecu and it has some great stuff. I'm concerned that since I have the Bazzaz Zfi and AFM with the O2 sensor in the front header, I may complicate things by using Tune ECU as well.

I've resolved the problems with the SAS and hit the Dyno yesterday. With 15% brake set on the Dyno and the Full Akra, SAS removal and high flow air filter. See Dyno print out here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6275597...n/photostream/

Thanks,
DP
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Maybe someone can help me here. I did the SAS removal on my 2011 RC8R and used the TuneECU to remove the sensing for it. I was not completely able to get the SAS out of the bike due to the cramped area. But I removed the hoses from the SAS unit, unplugged the conector, installed the block off plates, and plugged the hole on the air box. Well..... Now I am getting a weird high idle. It takes about 30 seconds to come back down to normal. Is this a problem with the SAS setup, or possible the map I installed? I am not getting a EFI or warning light. Can someone please assist me with this?

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Old 10-16-2011, 07:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a stock 2010 RC8R with 300 miles on it. When I am slowing down and going about 15 mph, I also have the high idle problem sometimes. It feels like it gets stuck for about five seconds and then settles down. I am taking it back to the dealer to get the club kit installed and I will mention it to them and report back if they find a problem.

Where is the loose ground wire that you found?
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dauntless View Post
I have a stock 2010 RC8R with 300 miles on it. When I am slowing down and going about 15 mph, I also have the high idle problem sometimes. It feels like it gets stuck for about five seconds and then settles down. I am taking it back to the dealer to get the club kit installed and I will mention it to them and report back if they find a problem.

Where is the loose ground wire that you found?
The loose ground was on the left front just behind the left ram tube and just to the left of the left fork at the top of the frame.

DPerez
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