Ktm 400 Exc Clutch Pressure Problem - Page 3 - KTM Forums: KTM Motorcycle Forum
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post #21 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 12:02 AM
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Black plastic one is your idle, screwing that clockwise lifts the slide in the carby and increases the idle.
The silver one underneath is your idle mixture.
I would start by screwing it in (clockwise)all the way till it stops then turn it out 2-1/2 turns.
To set the engine idle (black plastic one) properly is to set it to a tacho/rev counter. I think most rfs is about 1400rpm when warm.
Once you get a steady 1400rpm warm idle, you can then fine tune your mixture, which is a matter of screwing the mixture screw in until you notice a change in rev and backing it off a half turn from that point.
Usually there set anywhere from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 turns out.
As for that bolt. There should be no washer under the nut and there should be a hex cut out in the subframe where the nut will slide into. The nut or bolt should barely protrude out of the subframe. I will post a picture of mine tonight when I get home.
You could have a damaged subframe and it has been bodged up.
Do you have genuine info on how to set the carb?
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post #22 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 12:32 AM
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My idle honestly feels good. I know my black screw is 2.25 turns out roughly and the silver one is somewhere beyond 2, but it actually works. It takes about two to three minutes of riding with the choke on, but after that it's totally fine or at least feels that way. Sometimes the clutch is sticky and I have to keep pumping it to get the bike to stop sticking on it. I hope the idle is sorta fine. It for some reason works. My dad has a 05 450exc and his choke period takes about 30 seconds then hes good to go, but mine seems to take a bit longer. Is there any downside to leaving it where it's at if it works? I can't say it feels optimal because I don't have something to compare it to, but this feels pretty close to it. The idle is great and there's no lag when I give it gas. Again I don't have something at its peak to compare it to, but it feels fine. If it will severely cut down on my engine life I can look into trying the formal process of setting the idle again. The source I used was the KTM manual for my bike which said to start with the silver screw at 1.25 then go up until the idle came back down and find it somewhere in the middle and adjust the black screw accordingly.

My sub-frame seems to have half of the end cut off as if there was a place that it bolted to previously and they tapped a new hole later on. It is on both sides which makes me thing that someone before me crashed it and broke the sub-frame there and just bolted higher up instead of getting a new one. I don't know for sure if that's the story, but it's my first thoughts.

When I installed the kickstand, the bolt that came with it didn't fit for some reason and I had to get the one that is currently in it. That could be in parallel to the sub-frame being broken and bolting higher up without tapping and just putting a bolt on the other side instead of tapping.
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post #23 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 06:40 AM
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Maybe they have bodged the subframe then. You will need to try and do something to stop the chain from hitting the bolt. maybe try to get a hold of a low head, button head barrel nut, or grind the tangs off a tee-nut, try to get it as flush as possible.

With the carb as long as your not running lean you shouldn't do any damage to the engine.
With the clutch if you have to pump it up it means you still have air in the line.
Did you say you had trouble bleeding it?
You shouldn't have to remove anything. I just use a 50ml syringe full of magura blood or 5w fork oil, put it on the nipple, crack it and force it back up through the line and out the master, I have never done one that doesn't flow through and overflow the master.
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post #24 of 54 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 12:31 PM
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I'll try grinding the bolt down first and if that doesn't work I'll look into the button head barrel nut.

The bike seems to be fine with the carb other than a longer than usual choke warm up, but that's not an issue at all.

The clutch likes to stick to the gears when the bike is cold when the clutch is all the way pushed in. When I pump the clutch while warming it up it solves the problem. I've read about it on two strokes how they have a dragging clutch in the first five minutes and when they warm up the bike leaning it on the clutch side and pump the clutch to get oil moving between the plates(I'm assuming that's what that does) it works fine after that.

I had the worst time bleeding the clutch. I got generic mineral oil from CVS, a syringe, a pipe, a new slave cylinder, and some C-clip remover pliers. I started with trying to bleed the clutch by loosening the bolt on the slave cylinder then pumping mineral oil through the system up. I had huge resistance, it would start pumping out of the tube where I mounted it on the slave cylinder where I was pumping. I tried it with the clutch lever pulled in and out and I go the same result. The reserve cap was off the whole time. I read that if I was having resistance it was because the master cylinder needed to be replaced or cleaned and I didn't have one on standby so I just tried to clean it. I took the parts out and washed them down, dried them, and re-bathed them in mineral oil. I wanted to see if the resistance was in the cable connecting the slave to the cylinder so I tried bleeding it without the master cylinder assembly on it and fluid flowed through freely, not zero resistance, but how I feel it should when doing this. I reassembled the clutch while it was overflowing with fluid and filled up the master cylinder and it has worked since I did it.

The new slave cylinder came into play because somehow I successfully bled the clutch for the first time early on and it slowly failed until my clutch had no feeling. I read and it said that if it wasn't losing fluid at the master it would be at the slave so I bought a new slave and installed it about halfway through the process and I haven't had an issue with losing pressure over time. I could've probably bought a new O-ring for the piston in the slave cylinder, but my dad already purchased a new slave cylinder and had sent it to me.

Also would you happen to know anything about my headlight issue? It works sometimes and not other times and when I slap it, it comes back on.
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post #25 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-01-2016, 05:54 AM
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Headlight just sounds like a crook bulb, poor earth or bad connection.
Had you tried a new bulb?
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post #26 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 11:37 PM
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I haven't got a new bulb just yet I'll try that and see how it goes. My seal next to my counter shaft has gotten too bad for my liking and I've ordered a new seal kit to install for it. I got a MT43 tire too because I heard they're pretty good, but that's a whole other discussion lol.

With the chain hitting the sub-frame, I'm going to try and simply reverse the bolt because one side is completely flat, whether or not it hits my ankle is another issue.

Last edited by nathanslocum; 10-03-2016 at 09:49 AM. Reason: Chain proposel
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post #27 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 08:31 PM
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As of everything is working fine on my bike, I just replaced the counter-shaft seal and haven't seen any leakage(only been one day so far), added a new hammerhead shifter and it doesn't clip the crank case anymore, and I tapped a T10 bolt thread through my kickstand, frame, and sub-frame and just put in a T10 bolt instead of trying to find a low profile nut and combo which would've taken a good bit of research and me probably getting it wrong a couple times.

I pinched my tube about 7 or 8 times while trying to put the MT43 on which is all my fault I just couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. I tried to not go too far past 90 degrees, I put my hand in before I put the tire tool in to make sure the rim tube wasn't in the way, I pushed the tool in and pulled it all the way out to where the lip just caught the rim, and finally I put the tube in completely deflated with baby powder in the tire carcass, then inflated to 10 pounds of pressure then took the valve stem out and installed the edge of the tire. That was the only time it worked and I'm not sure if it was one single factor or a combination of not doing something above that lead to so many pinches or if it was something completely unrelated. The bead was 100% on one side and 80% on on the other at 35 pounds of pressure and I just rode it down the road at speed and it came on.

I haven't installed the new headlight bulb I got because the in and out nature of the original light has stopped for the time being.
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post #28 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 11:03 PM
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Sounds like your getting it sorted out. I don't muck around changing tyres anymore. The bike shops charge next to nothing to put it on the machine, for the extra few dollars it saves scratching rims, pinching tubes and kicking and swearing?
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post #29 of 54 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 06:36 PM
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Valve Adjustments

Skip to second paragraph to skip backstory.

New problems. I got tired of the delay in throttle response so I re-opened the can of worms that is the carburetor for me. I tried going by the manual and going from there. When I close the fuel mixture screw it has no effect on the idle so I took the carb off and completely cleaned it all of the jets and pathways using carb cleaner. As it has gotten colder, it has been increasingly difficult to start to the point where I'd roll it down a hill to start. I'd read that the valved were a good place to start so I removed the covers and tried to adjust them, but I had no luck in that I couldn't fit the smallest gauge under the rocker even with the screw all of the way out.

I can't seem to properly adjust my valve clearances. I tried to fit the feeler gauges in, but even the smallest wouldn't fit at first. I loosened the screws and tried to fit again and only sometimes I can fit maybe one of the smaller ones. There is barely any rock with the screws all of the way out. I tried the 1/6 back turn method and it didn't work either. The bike cranked, but very stubbornly. I could use any advice, tips, things too look for, where I'm going wrong, really anything.
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post #30 of 54 (permalink) Old 12-15-2016, 10:43 PM
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Do you have clearance at the valves now after you did the point-point of nut adjustment? I can explain it to you if you think you have done it wrong.
Is your intake manifold boot air tight, no cracks? Does your acc pump work? And is your choke working?
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