Just go for it...
Ok, I can feel I might get long winded with this reply for you... but here goes.
(removing SAS valve)
Ok, first you remove the rubber hose from the valve's hose nipple and set the hose somewhere, then I used a 3/4" (or 19mm) "crow's foot" wrench to loosen the aluminum lock-nut (it only needs to be cracked loose, that's all) If you don't have a crow's foot wrench, you might try to reach in with a typical wrench and see if you can grab onto just enough of the locknut to crack it loose. Then I simply rotated the entire valve counter-clockwise to remove it from the engine, but you'll quickly notice that it only rotates about 90 degrees and then the nipple will hit the radiator hose/thermostat housing. I simply pushed that hose/housing away from the valve with the right hand while I rotated the valve with the left hand and it will scrape a little but it does clear and it will continue to spin out all the way after doing that about 3 times. If you don't want to do that you can simply remove the small screws that hold the valve halves together and it will then spin out easily, but really that's not necessary.
Then remember that the bolt that you need to plug the hole where the SAS was removed is a 12mmx1.5 thread. I removed the locknut from the SAS valve and took it with me to Lowes to buy a bolt and quickly found out that Lowes stocks 12mm x 1.25 thread, and 12mm x 1.75 thread, but NOT the 1.5mm thread bolts. So I had to go to a nut & bolt store to buy my bolt.
The SAS valve does the exact same job as the "air pump" does on cars in the '80's and '90's. It allows outside air to be administered into the exhaust near the engine so as the air gets mixed with the exhaust, the 21% of oxygen in the air helps to more completely burn the un-burned hydrocarbons as the air and the unburned HC's travel down the exhaust pipe so that by the time the exhaust exits the pipe there is less un-burned HC's emitted. This system on the KTM acts like an exhaust leak near the exhaust pipe/head flange and that's why it pops in the exhaust during deceleration is because of the cold air coming into the exhaust from the SAS is exactly like an exhaust leak sucking in cold air during deceleration.
The EVAP system isn't allowing cold air into the exhaust, it's allowing outside air directly into the intake port of the cylinder, leaning out the mixture substantially which is why the idle has to be adjusted after removing the EVAP system. I honestly believe that KTM is going to have longevity issues with the EXC engines if they continue to leave the ECM programming the way it presently is now in regards to this EVAP system. It's just simply bad news and not engineered properly I think. After removing both systems I feel soooooooooooooooo much better about my bike's longevity for the long run, and I am also not embarassed anymore by the extreme backfiring or popping.
Scott in Utah
Last edited by Wizard64; 11-03-2011 at 10:33 AM.