Next the piston can come off.
I had an oil burning problem and was expecting to see a very back oil scraper or comp ring but they looked okay, as well as the overall condition of the piston. The pads were worn off as they should be and I could have probably used a new piston much sooner (at 150 hours now), but other than some oil consumption the bike was still very powerful, fast and snappy so waited until now (winter time).
To take the piston out, make sure to put a good sized rag around the con-rod blocking any possibility of something falling into the bottom end. This is very important because if something falls down there its a full engine rebuild including a bottom end tear down.
Using a strong pick or very small tipped screwdriver, remove the piston writst-pin circlip on one side only. Push the wrist-pin through from the other side to get it out. It was very snug so I used the handle-end of a small screwdriver covered with a rag to push it out of the cod-rod making sure not to mark or damage the wrist-pin. You can look at the top of your piston to note the part numbers from Vertex. It also shows the arrow that points towards the exhaust side so you know which direction it installs for later (the new one should have an indicator also).
Finally, you can take a look at the con-rod condition and for excessive play in the rod bearing by checking side to side movement feeling for click or shift at the bearing. I'm not familiar with what wear to look for in the bottom end and I am just assuming it should be okay as it's outside the scope of my top end build and far beyond my knowledge or skill.