2011 350sxf 100 hours re-freshing the bike - KTM Forums: KTM Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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2011 350sxf 100 hours re-freshing the bike

So my 2011 350sxf is coming up close to 100 hours.
I'm the second owner and I'm trying my hardest to really take good care of it and bring everything back to being fresh again.

Going over the whole bike before this riding season starts on everything accept for the motor (well other then valve shims anyway).
Hope to get one more season and then a complete tear down of the motor and refresh it next winter. Until then going to do everything else.

Done the oil and air filter multiple times.
Recently had all the suspension off and fresh fluid in them and the correct springs put in by a local shop (Mission Cycles in Erin, really great please Todd is the best).

What I've been working on the past week:
Changed the rear sprocket, chain guide and put a new gold DID narrow chain (havent taken pictures of that yet).
I put new EBC front and rear brake pads and bled both brakes.
I flushed and back bled the hydraulic clutch also.
I also changed the air intake temperature sensor as it was giving the code for that mainfuctioning sensor.
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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There has been a slight sweat of coolants coming from under the water pump so I went ahead and replaced the water pump seal gasket. There is a superceeded part number for this with a better fitting gasket so if your replacing yours make sure to get the newer part number.



Rad hoses were a little rough so I replaced those with some nice orange Factory FX hoses. Mind you I was looking for the "one-piece" Y-pipe design specifically but motorcyclesuperstore sent me the wrong ones.
Being a little impatient to ride already I decided to bight the loss and install these anyway. To do so, you need to re-use the plastic Y connector from the oem set-up and carefully grind off the stamped hose clamps that don't come off very easily. Once that's out you can re-use the plastic Y piece and also the rest of the hose clamps just not the ones that help the Y piece.
The fit of these hoses was very good.


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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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I went on to replacing my wheel bearings.
The front were actually very good shape and did not need replacing.
The rear had some play so I wanted to replace them.
I did both front and rear wheels since I had the parts already bought and all the tools out. Some things that made the job easy
-small hand torch ($15.00 at Lowe's)
-freezer (putting the bearings in there a couple hours before install)
-high quality grease
-spare old tire to prop the wheel on to make easier to work on

Old crappy All Ballz


Front wheel with bearings out


Rear wheel with bearings out


Bought the good OEM KTM STK bearings made in Italy


New Front bearings



New Rear Bearings
Note: for these I ended up using the shaft seals same part number as from the front wheel. Diameter and bore are the same but the thickness from
the front wheel spacer goes deeper into the wheel and almost perfectly seats agains the bearing seal leaving almost no gap.

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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Then I moved on too servicing and greasing the shock linkage bearings.
The one in the dog-bone was in great shape and I thouroughly cleaned and re-greased.

On the linkage 2 out of 3 bearings were in perfect shape so I cleaned and re-greased them.
The 3rd one as you can see in the picture is completely siezed and rotten.
I tried pressing out via the threaded-rod with sockets method but way to rotten. Ended up dremelling the race and it came out.


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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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After all this I pulled off the crankcase breather and "tee-'ed" if off so less likely to draw in water on the trails


Now finally while preparing to do the valce check and shims (if out of spec and needing replacement) I noticed that both
reinforcing brackets at the top of the engine are cracked.



Already ordered new replacement reinforcing brackets.
Gonna finish things up with the valve clearances this weekend and then pretty much ready to ride.
Probably I'll install some Starcross 5's with HD tubes mid-way through the season.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 09:44 AM
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Thumbs up

Fantastic write up on the
refresh.

Do the silicone hoses require a specific clamp?

2008 KTM 950 Super Enduro R
2008 Husqvarna 610 TE

Past Rides
'14 Honda NC700X
'11 Husaberg TE 300
'06 Ducati 1000S Multistrada DS
'04 BMW 1150 RT
'03 KTM 450 EXC
'02 KTM 640 LC4e
'01 Honda XR650R
'00 KTM 520 EXC
'98 Honda XR600R
'95 KTM 620 RXC
'90 KTM 500 MX
'88 Yamaha TT600
'86 Yamaha XT 350
'84 Yamaha IT465 (STOLEN)
'83 Kawasaki KDX 450
'83 Honda CB1000 Custom
'82 Kawasaki KDX 400
'77 Yamaha DT200
'70 Honda CT70

See you at Papa Fernandez!


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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajadog View Post
Fantastic write up on the
refresh.

Do the silicone hoses require a specific clamp?
I re-used the OEM hose clamps except for the "Y" plastic piece.
That's why I originally wanted the new design style where it's all one silicone piece and no plastic splitter in there, but unfortunately they sent me the wrong one.
The oem uses some "stamped" on clamps for that part and they are not removable so you have to cut them off (I used a grinder very carefully).
I just bought 3 extra hose clamps at hardware store for the same diameter and used those. If you can find the hose set that comes as one piece for the "Y" section where they branch off three directions this is much better.
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a picture of the new chain and sprocket.
Went with an extreme enduro DID 520VT2 chain this time and the rivet link.
If you notice in the picture, I went with very short wheelbase almost ran out of chain adjuster (going inward into the swingarm). I did this because the 52 rear sproclet will be the largest I would run, so if I put my 50 tooth rear sprocket or even smaller, would have to bring the wheel further out to accomodate the size so I wanted to make sure have lots or room to accomodate this plus any stretch that may happen down the road.
Very solid set-up and hope it holds up with the riding I'm doing which is hard enduro very rocky/rooted/wet terrain.
Went with a 52 tooth KTM Supersprox really nice orange sprocket on the rear. Went up a couple teeth to try running in different gears in some of the single track and steep climbs.
Also installed the brand new OEM KTM chain guide.
With the new wheel bearings, everything greased, new chain/sprockets/chain-guide, and new rear brake pads, this rear wheel glides unbelievably smooth (closest thing I'll ever know to what a brand new rear wheel of a KTM feels like .. lol, minus the small dents in my rim though).



Got around to doing the valve clearance check today.
With the valve cover off things looked nice and clean inside. Looks like previous owner put some silicone on the underside of the rubber valve cover gasket. Will try without it and see if it leaks or not. If leaks I'm going to replace it becuase I belive this one is not supposed to need silicone but I'll look more into it.

The intake valve clearances were perfect, both are exactly 0.13mm and right in the middle of the range (0.10mm-0.15mm allowable).
The exhaust were not 0.13mm, but they weren't 0.12mm either (more like 0.125mm but my feeler gauge doesn't go that small in increments). Manual calls for 0.13mm-0.18mm.

I plan to take it all apart tomorrow I guess, and going to sand down the exhaust shims just slightly enough to bring the gap back to around 0.13mm or 0.14mm.





Curious to know what other's are doing; would you guys leave it alone or be obsessive-compulsive like me and take it all apart for 0.005 of a mm?
I figure if I do it now should be good for the rest of the season (and maybe just a check again mid-way to see where they're at).

Last edited by serialize; 04-09-2016 at 11:08 PM.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 01:01 PM
What the curtains?
 
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Can I have this thread stickied?

I think is a great seed thread.

2008 KTM 950 Super Enduro R
2008 Husqvarna 610 TE

Past Rides
'14 Honda NC700X
'11 Husaberg TE 300
'06 Ducati 1000S Multistrada DS
'04 BMW 1150 RT
'03 KTM 450 EXC
'02 KTM 640 LC4e
'01 Honda XR650R
'00 KTM 520 EXC
'98 Honda XR600R
'95 KTM 620 RXC
'90 KTM 500 MX
'88 Yamaha TT600
'86 Yamaha XT 350
'84 Yamaha IT465 (STOLEN)
'83 Kawasaki KDX 450
'83 Honda CB1000 Custom
'82 Kawasaki KDX 400
'77 Yamaha DT200
'70 Honda CT70

See you at Papa Fernandez!


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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks bajadog, cheers!

So here are some more updates.
Also thought I'd put some "notes" as to some specifics to note along the way for some of this work being done.
I haven't posted any more pics yet, hopefully have time tonight to upload them and post in the thread.

Since Sunday, I decided not to take out the cams and wanted to re-measure the gap readings.
My space heater is just about on it's last legs and it was pretty cold in my garage and I didn't like the readings.
I decided I will recheck the clearances. I bought a new space heater and ran it a couple hours before checking the
valve clearances (it's still quite cold up here in the "great-north" around 0 to -2 daytime and -7 to -10 overnight).
Re-measured the gaps and both intake valves were 0.13mm bang on. Exhaust valve on the left (clutch side) was 0.15mm,
and exhaust valve on the right (brake side) was 0.14mm. These readings are perfect as per the manual, also makes sense
with how the bike starts and runs both hot and cold (which is flawlessly, so far). Not going to replace any shims this
time and will re-check near mid-season around June or July after another 20-30 hours or so.

Note: Manual calls for 20c (68f) approx temperature to measure valve clearances. If you live in a colder climate
and have your bike in the garage make sure to run a space heater and get things up to around or close to room
temperature to measure the gaps for a more accurate reading.

Note: Measuring your valve clearances, insert the feeler gauge from the back side of the bike to slide in and measure gap.

Note: Measuring valve clearances you need to find TDC. To do this easily put the bike in top gear and gently turn the
rear tire by hand until the "flat side" behind the cam lobe (part of the cam on the left/clutch side of the bike) lines up
with the 2 dots on the cam bracket and both dots are clearly visible. To confirm this, you can pull the crank locking bolt
which is found on the right/brake side of the bike at the bottom just forward of the engine case by the rear brake pedal.







Note: If pulling the crank lock bolt and you have oil in the motor (haven't drained for an oil change), you can tip the bike
over on it's side (not fully on the ground but tilted quite far over) and you can remove the bolt without losing oil. Easy
way I did this was put a zip-tie on the front brake lever so the bike won't move easily and tipped the bike against my garage
wall. When you look inside if you see a black hole and not the side of the crank then you know you are TDC. You can take off
the copper washer (the really thick one) and gently insert the locking bolt all the way to lock the crank in this position so
you can work away measuring you clearances without the engine possibly moving.
IMPORTANT, put some tape or something to mark the lock bolt area so you don't forget to re-install the copper washer when you
are done. Don't try starting the bike with the lock bolt fully sank into the crank as this would not be good.





Note: If you do replace shims and pull the cams make sure to mark the timing chain in respect to the cam gear (once you've locked
the crank already). I use a wax pencil works great and mark 2 points on the chain to the cam gear on both cams (some say can also
use liquid paper). This way when the chain tensioner is taken out and you pull the chain off you know exactly where to put it back on lining up all 4 dots.
Also loop a wire or coat hanger through the chain when you take it off and brace it up so not chance it would fall into the bottom end of the motor when your working in there replacing shims.

Note: Water Pump Cover gasket part number for the 2011 350 manual is 77235053000 and has been superseded and the NEW PART
NUMBER is 77735052000. The new part number seals better and won't leak like most of the 2011/12 350's.

Note: Spark plug, OEM for 2011 350sxf is 77239093000 NGK-LMAR9AI-8. Gap should be 0.8mm (0.031 in).
If you are replacing it a good time to do this is when you have the valve cover off as this bike has some clearance issues to get into
the hole for the plug because the frame is so close above it. With the valve cover off you can also pull out the upper aluminum
part of the spark plug hole tube, it's not threaded just twist it a little and pull up. This way you have much better access at the plug.
Still the plug is a very small diameter and I found that none of my plug sockets in my tool box work and YOU WILL NEED THE KTM TOOL KIT with the special spark plug tool. I have to borrow my friends. Always install the plug gently and torque only to spec. Also, make sure to warm up the bike thoroughly before attempting to remove the plug so it comes out easier.

Note: Oil filter - paper filter is the best and the OEM KTM filter work perfectly. I try and stay away from the metal mesh cleanable
filters (mine actually came with one from previous owner). The metal filter, they just can't manufacture the metal weave small enough to filter as well as paper, so sticking with the paper filter means better filtration (yes you have to replace them though, and can't just clean like the metal ones).

Some other specs to list as quick reference (specifically for the 2011 KTM 350SXF):
Engine Oil and Capacity: SAE 10W50 1.10L / 1.16QT
Engine Oil Filter: OEM paper 77338005100
Coolant Capacity: 0.95L / 1QT
Brake Fluid: DOT 4
Fuel Capacity and Type: 7.5L 91 octane
Front Brake Pads: 77013020000 BRAKE PADS TOYO B153
Rear Brake Pads: 54813090300 BRAKE PAD SET REAR TOYO

Should post some more pics tonight or tomorrow.
Any further maintenance will list the updates here and any details on the work being done.

Last edited by serialize; 04-15-2016 at 11:02 AM.
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