Thanks bajadog, cheers!
So here are some more updates.
Also thought I'd put some "notes" as to some specifics to note along the way for some of this work being done.
I haven't posted any more pics yet, hopefully have time tonight to upload them and post in the thread.
Since Sunday, I decided not to take out the cams and wanted to re-measure the gap readings.
My space heater is just about on it's last legs and it was pretty cold in my garage and I didn't like the readings.
I decided I will recheck the clearances. I bought a new space heater and ran it a couple hours before checking the
valve clearances (it's still quite cold up here in the "great-north" around 0 to -2 daytime and -7 to -10 overnight).
Re-measured the gaps and both intake valves were 0.13mm bang on. Exhaust valve on the left (clutch side) was 0.15mm,
and exhaust valve on the right (brake side) was 0.14mm. These readings are perfect as per the manual, also makes sense
with how the bike starts and runs both hot and cold (which is flawlessly, so far). Not going to replace any shims this
time and will re-check near mid-season around June or July after another 20-30 hours or so.
Note: Manual calls for 20c (68f) approx temperature to measure valve clearances. If you live in a colder climate
and have your bike in the garage make sure to run a space heater and get things up to around or close to room
temperature to measure the gaps for a more accurate reading.
Note: Measuring your valve clearances, insert the feeler gauge from the back side of the bike to slide in and measure gap.
Note: Measuring valve clearances you need to find TDC. To do this easily put the bike in top gear and gently turn the
rear tire by hand until the "flat side" behind the cam lobe (part of the cam on the left/clutch side of the bike) lines up
with the 2 dots on the cam bracket and both dots are clearly visible. To confirm this, you can pull the crank locking bolt
which is found on the right/brake side of the bike at the bottom just forward of the engine case by the rear brake pedal.
Note: If pulling the crank lock bolt and you have oil in the motor (haven't drained for an oil change), you can tip the bike
over on it's side (not fully on the ground but tilted quite far over) and you can remove the bolt without losing oil. Easy
way I did this was put a zip-tie on the front brake lever so the bike won't move easily and tipped the bike against my garage
wall. When you look inside if you see a black hole and not the side of the crank then you know you are TDC. You can take off
the copper washer (the really thick one) and gently insert the locking bolt all the way to lock the crank in this position so
you can work away measuring you clearances without the engine possibly moving.
IMPORTANT, put some tape or something to mark the lock bolt area so you don't forget to re-install the copper washer when you
are done. Don't try starting the bike with the lock bolt fully sank into the crank as this would not be good.
Note: If you do replace shims and pull the cams make sure to mark the timing chain in respect to the cam gear (once you've locked
the crank already). I use a wax pencil works great and mark 2 points on the chain to the cam gear on both cams (some say can also
use liquid paper). This way when the chain tensioner is taken out and you pull the chain off you know exactly where to put it back on lining up all 4 dots.
Also loop a wire or coat hanger through the chain when you take it off and brace it up so not chance it would fall into the bottom end of the motor when your working in there replacing shims.
Note: Water Pump Cover gasket part number for the 2011 350 manual is 77235053000 and has been superseded and the NEW PART
NUMBER is 77735052000. The new part number seals better and won't leak like most of the 2011/12 350's.
Note: Spark plug, OEM for 2011 350sxf is 77239093000 NGK-LMAR9AI-8. Gap should be 0.8mm (0.031 in).
If you are replacing it a good time to do this is when you have the valve cover off as this bike has some clearance issues to get into
the hole for the plug because the frame is so close above it. With the valve cover off you can also pull out the upper aluminum
part of the spark plug hole tube, it's not threaded just twist it a little and pull up. This way you have much better access at the plug.
Still the plug is a very small diameter and I found that none of my plug sockets in my tool box work and YOU WILL NEED THE KTM TOOL KIT with the special spark plug tool. I have to borrow my friends. Always install the plug gently and torque only to spec. Also, make sure to warm up the bike thoroughly before attempting to remove the plug so it comes out easier.
Note: Oil filter - paper filter is the best and the OEM KTM filter work perfectly. I try and stay away from the metal mesh cleanable
filters (mine actually came with one from previous owner). The metal filter, they just can't manufacture the metal weave small enough to filter as well as paper, so sticking with the paper filter means better filtration (yes you have to replace them though, and can't just clean like the metal ones).
Some other specs to list as quick reference (specifically for the 2011 KTM 350SXF):
Engine Oil and Capacity: SAE 10W50 1.10L / 1.16QT
Engine Oil Filter: OEM paper 77338005100
Coolant Capacity: 0.95L / 1QT
Brake Fluid: DOT 4
Fuel Capacity and Type: 7.5L 91 octane
Front Brake Pads: 77013020000 BRAKE PADS TOYO B153
Rear Brake Pads: 54813090300 BRAKE PAD SET REAR TOYO
Should post some more pics tonight or tomorrow.
Any further maintenance will list the updates here and any details on the work being done.