OK I have figured this out and it's better than OEM. Found http://www.timesert.com/ and spoke with them on the phone for quite a bit about this application, they were extremely helpful and very technically competent! To minimize amount of material to remove, they recommended this kit http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html sized M20x1.5 which is the OEM drain bolt size.
Since most of the threads were already stripped out, I simply used the guide and mega drill bit provided with the kit to remove the remainder, and did it by hand with alot of lubrication as the aluminum is so soft. Then the countersink, STI tap and finally used the insert tool with red locktite to install the new M20x1.5 insert! Piece of cake, supposedly better than OEM and she is full of fresh oil as a proper track bike should be! LOL
$260 mistake, but 1000% better than a new engine case, helicoil or NPT plug! Especially since the plug has that plastic/magnet/screen piece.
I had the same issue on a KTM 200xc (2008) I was on the verge of doing the $6.00 JB Weld trick as suggested so many times on this forum. Decided to spend $110 and get the insert kit. Worked perfectly. Simple. Keep the tools oiled with some tacky oil and you shouldn't have worry about shavings getting into the case. When I was finished, I ran some cheap oil through the case to flush it out. This fix is BETTER than new.
wow! thanks for posting this, its a real life saver I wasn't sure about trying the timesert system on my SDR but now that I have seen your pictures I feel relieved about the process. Now I don't have to wait 6 or 7 months on KTM to fix there own f***-up.
Yeah I could very easily tap it and use a little bit larger drain plug from some other type of bike but it's A brand-new bike it only has 800 miles on it and it's under warranty. But on the other hand it could take six or eight months to get the repair done through my weak *** KTM dealer who has been dragging his feet on doing anything and told me that I should've brought it to him for the first service because KTM does not want you to do your own service, which is a total lie, I guess he thinks I'm just some moron pencil pusher who's never picked up a ranch before and thinks I'm going to pay him $ 400 to change the oil in my motorcycle. I am a very experienced mechanic I have built bikes from the ground up I have restored over 30 motorcycles mostly Sportbikes. I have decided to go ahead and pick up the bike from the dealer and fix it myself the proper way so that if one day I decide to sell it the next owner will not have any issues, I always like to pass on a good bike to someone who can enjoy it without any hidden problems.
Since most of the threads were already stripped out, I simply used the guide and mega drill bit provided with the kit to remove the remainder, and did it by hand with alot of lubrication as the aluminum is so soft. Then the countersink, STI tap and finally used the insert tool with red locktite to install the new M20x1.5 insert! Piece of cake, supposedly better than OEM and she is full of fresh oil as a proper track bike should be! LOL
$260 mistake, but 1000% better than a new engine case, helicoil or NPT plug! Especially since the plug has that plastic/magnet/screen piece.
Hi,
I got the same situation in my 1090 2018 LC8.
The oil pan threads got damaged where the screen filter plug goes.
I was wondering whether the size of the kit I should order is the same as yours?
I have been told it's a coarse thread too (not sure how that's related or if it makes any difference)...but I could use your advice
Thanks
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