Ktm 50 2013 oil tank/pump/injection removal - KTM Forums: KTM Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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Ktm 50 2013 oil tank/pump/injection removal

I bought a KTM 50 2013 model about 5 months ago,, I have had a never ending problem with it fouling plugs, and dripping heaps of black oil out of the muffler.
Before we start, my boy is only four years old and doesn’t really get the motor humming in the powerband like it should, as he is still learning.
I realise the bike may need to be jetted a touch leaner,, but have decided to leave it, as when my boy starts to really get on it, it should be pretty much in the ball park (standard jetting)
1. Start the bike with the fuel tap off to empty the fuel bowl (this will ensure “after” the oil pump has been removed, the first fuel that will be burnt will be the premixed oil/fuel ensuring the bike doesn’t run for 20-30 seconds with no oil)
2. Remove the seat and fuel tank then remove the oil tank, 2 small 8mm bolts.
3. Cut a piece of hose off the tank oil line about 25mm long and plug it at one end, (I used a larger/fatter short self tapping screw and screwed it all the way in one end, even with the screw all the way in there was still about 10mm of hose left at the other end that the screw, hadn’t reached) Attach this piece of hose back on the oil pump, I also used a zip-tie as well as the little metal clip to secure it well . So now you have a small blocked off piece of hose on the inlet side of the oil pump.
4. Leave the hose connected to the oil pump that goes to the Carburettor.
5. Take off the side cover that houses the oil pump/injector, undo the 13mm nut on the end of the crankshaft (I used a workshop rattle gun with care,, as using a spanner it can be difficult to crack the nut with-out the engine spinning, unless you use a piston stop) Remove the plastic oil pump gear,, With the gear removed, now remove the circlip that holds the gear on the metal centre shaft and slide the gear off the centre shaft, don’t forgett to take the grub pin out. Now replace the round metal centre piece back onto the crank shaft and retighten the 13mm nut ( I used loctite on this nut). So now you have the same set up as original,,, MINUS THE PLASTIC GEAR ( I left off the circlip aswell as it is not needed.
6. Fill the tank with premix, I run my boys bike at 50:1 ester based synthetic 2 stroke oil, it starts easier idles better and I believe goes much better now, also my 3 other race bikes now run the same premix fuel making the fuel much easier to organise.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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NOW THIS BIKE STARTS FIRST KICK,,, IDLES WITHOUT STALLING and has no goop coming out of the muffler,,, and goes much better!!!
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 10:12 AM
What the curtains?
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Location: San Diego
Posts: 12,951
Good to hear.

I had one of those on my Suzuki quad (1986 I think).
Never worked well either.

On my Evinrude Etec outboard, that oil injection system is
top notch (direct injection 2 stroke).

2012 Yamaha Super Tenere
2008 KTM 950 Super Enduro R

Past Rides
'14 Honda NC700X
'11 Husaberg TE 300
'08 Husqvarna 610 TE
'06 Ducati 1000S Multistrada DS
'04 BMW 1150 RT
'03 KTM 450 EXC
'02 KTM 640 LC4e
'01 Honda XR650R
'00 KTM 520 EXC
'98 Honda XR600R
'95 KTM 620 RXC
'90 KTM 500 MX
'88 Yamaha TT600
'86 Yamaha XT 350
'84 Yamaha IT465 (STOLEN)
'83 Kawasaki KDX 450
'83 Honda CB1000 Custom
'82 Kawasaki KDX 400
'77 Yamaha DT200
'70 Honda CT70

See you at Papa Fernandez!

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by idolz View Post
NOW THIS BIKE STARTS FIRST KICK,,, IDLES WITHOUT STALLING and has no goop coming out of the muffler,,, and goes much better!!!
I love pre-mix.....now you can use Castrol R....I love the smell of bean oil
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