In desperate need of help. 2013 KTM 50SX brakes - KTM Forums: KTM Motorcycle Forum
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  • 1 Post By DW
  • 1 Post By cors187
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  • 2 Post By joe blow
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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In desperate need of help. 2013 KTM 50SX brakes

Hi,

I recently bought my son a 2013 KTM 50SX. The bike was in great shape and I went though it as I normally do with used stuff.

I was going to run new fluid through the system as a preventative measure. I noticed the rear master had what appeared to be milk/crystalized stuff in it. I opened it up and sure enough who know what happened but it was crystalized deposits and fluid in the center. The brakes worked fine mind you.

I took the line off, removed the master and cleaned it out with a lintless rag and compressed air. I re-installed it, filled it and then thought....sh*t there isn't a bleeder on the master or the rear caliper.

The front reservoir has some sediment in it as well and I will probably clean it out and start new as well. The front caliper has a bleeder but the master doesn't.


Can someone PLEASE help me in my dilemma. How in the hell do I bleed the back and the front?


Thank you
Joe
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 06:14 AM
DW
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Welcome to the forum Joe.

I just moved your thread to the minicycles area, as the guys here may know the answer to your question.
Other than filling the line extremely slowly and leaving the cap off the master and pumping like crazy to purge the air out through the top, I am not sure what you could do.
Maybe try and pump it and hold, crack the bango bolt a little, then lock back up and release the pedal maybe. (basically just act like the banjo is the bleed screw). It will make a mess, but will probably work.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 11:02 AM
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Some evidence suggests using a syringe and reverse the system

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current -2007 690SM
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys. I will get back into it when I get home from work in a few days. The rear is the system that has me perplexed. On the bottom of the master it has an access screw most likely for bleeding but it makes no sense how to get the air out of the system if I cannot access the caliper via bleeder screw without cracking the system using the banjo.

What a friggin hokie design I must say.

Any other recommendations or advice is welcome.

I have searched for a while and although I found some info it always default to there being a bleeder access on the rear caliper.....for the life of me there isn't
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 05:34 AM
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Are you saying it's a closed caliper. Only one line in?
In that case close the piston all the way in then inject fluid into the inlet tube so the piston comes out.
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current -2007 690SM
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,

So I finally figured it out. After cleaning all the crystalized crap out of the masters..... The rear was the PITA because of the bleeder being non-existent and I'd never encountered this. On the bottom of the master (rear) there is a tiny torx. I removed that and grabbed a 60ml syringe from work that had a tapered tip. I filled it full of fluid, bled the air out and injected it into the system while simultaneously cracking the banjo at the master and then the banjo at the caliper. I got clean fluid out of both and ran all 60 ml through. I then removed the caliper and compressed the pistons while cracking the banjo....got a small air bubble out. I repeated the bleed from the master just to make sure. I had full pedal right away


The front was a bit tricky but hindsight it will be the easiest in the future. On the nylon master cylinder cap, it has a diagram detailing a bleed screw located under the cap. The reservoir is separate from the bleeder and the gasket seals the reservoir when the cap is applied.

I drilled out a hole right above the bleeder screw for access, since filling the system through the bleeder screw can only be accessed with the whole cap off.....obviously the master will just overflow. Anyway, I got that done and it worked.

I could have and will in the future bleed from the bleeder up. For the life of me I could not find a small piece of tubing and I was so determined to do it, I drilled the cap. Although there were no ill effects, I bought a new cap and gasket (5.00 for both) since they were so cheap.

I purchased a used shop CD for future motor disassembly and hopefully to find some brake bleed info. In the manual they have special caps and use a pressure bleeder like you would in auto applications but I think with the advice I got here, I got it licked.

Thank you all again

Joe
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 12:11 AM
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Very nice reply. Thanks for the update, I'm sure it will help many others.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks and I hope it can be useful.







Quote:
Originally Posted by cors187 View Post
Very nice reply. Thanks for the update, I'm sure it will help many others.
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