Wife is mad!

[ktmpegger]

My new 2012 KTM 250 SX!

[bajadog]

Drop dead sexy!!

Lucky.................

[tye1138]

When you're done with it, look me up!

[Jason380mxc]

Beautiful scooter!!!!!!!

[ktmpegger]

Trying to be nice during break in so I spent most of the time 1/4 throttle. Some of the vids are long winded and you gotta watch for a few until you see some nice scenery. I don't edit, just turn the camera on and ride.

This is absolutely the best out of the box bike I have ever owned and I cannot believe how much power it makes for a 250!


http://contour.com/stories/ktm-2012-...g-01-31dec2011
http://contour.com/stories/ktm-2012-...g-02-31dec2011
http://contour.com/stories/ktm-2012-...g-03-31dec2011
http://contour.com/stories/ktm-2012-...g-04-31dec2011

[bajadog]

Two questions:

How does the new bike compare to the Suzuki 2 stroke?

How do you get away with all those toys?

My wife made me limit to two bikes or no fishing boat....

[Jason380mxc]

I know this is a KTM forum, but I would like to here about your KX500AF. I had a 02 CR500AF that I loved, but had to sell for the cash. I wanted to post this info I found for all the 2T riders regarding break in. Makes sence to me.

Jerry Hall is a very well respected engine builder and Tuner. These are his thoughts om 2 stroke engine break in...

....this is what the man said...

1. If the ring is round, and the bore is round... the ring is seated..... period. If you find excessive blow by, get a new machinist.

2. No, you cannot "Heat Treat" anything inside your motor by following some heat cycle ritual you saw on Thumpertalk....

3. So, what are you trying to accomplish then? In a nutshell...... you are trying to acclimatize the piston to the bore..... I'll explain.

Obviously, when the engine is cold, everything is at room temperature. Once started the piston heats quickly, while the cylinder takes a while to catch up as it has both greater mass, and cooling water running through it. At some point the piston will reach a final " No Load" temp of perhaps 300 degrees, and so will the cooling system if we dont start riding.... so monitor things closely and shut off the bike once it gets pretty warm ( Coolant starting to come out of the overflow..)

Great!!! You just did your first run in. The only real purpose is to check your work and see if the engine runs, and is doesnt leak.

At this point you should do two things... retorque the bolts and hoses, and put as large a pilot jet and the engine will take for your riding conditions.

Now, for the breakin- and the reasons behind it.

First imagine your getting into the jacuzzi, and its 103 degrees.... Do you just hop right in? NOWAY! The twig and berries must be slowly acclimatized to the elevated tempreture, or severe discomfort will be the only result... Your piston is no different.

Once you have checked your bolts, and jetting the pilot up, find a fairly large riding area... start the bike, and warm it up. Once done ...... Ride.

The goal is to get the jug up to operation tempreture, then increase the piston temp in stages, up to max operating temp.

How is this done?

1. Once the engine is warm, make a few hard acceleration runs in FIRST GEAR ONLY! This will bring the piston temp up to about 350 degrees.

2. Then make a few runs through first and into second.... 375 degrees.

3. 1st, 2nd, and into third...... 400 degrees

4. 2nd and 3rd.... 425 degrees

5. 3rd and 4th.... 500 degrees

6. 4th and 5th..... 675 degrees.

What you have effectivly done is the mechanical version of lowering yourself into that jacuzzi I mentioned. As the temperature of the piston increased, you very slowly brought the piston to full size, and any micro " highspots" were allowed to mate together for brief periods of time, and then the throttle was closed and EXTRA OIL was allowed into the engine by the oversized pilot jet to both cool and lubricate.

NOTE! No increase was made to the needle or main jet as this would hamper the ability to get the piston temp up to where it should be.

Jerry stated that on his dyno, he can accomplish this drill in about 10 minutes. On a bike it should take about 20. Once done, go hammer that thing!

Excessive running in the garage does nothing.
Putt-Putting ( Babying) the motor for the first hour does nothing.
Some exotic battery of timed heat cycles, cooling off, more cycles, more cooling is hogwash.

The basic fact is that by slowly bringing the piston to size, and at a controlled rate, it's allowed mate to the cylinder wall properly where it can have a long life.

[ktmpegger]

Originally Posted by bajadog

Two questions:

How does the new bike compare to the Suzuki 2 stroke?

How do you get away with all those toys?

My wife made me limit to two bikes or no fishing boat....

I'm retired Navy so what I spend on the dirt addiction does not come out of the general fund. I'm still working as a Senior Controls Systems Tech at a large waste water treatment plant here in Vegas. The pay isn't to bad but the politics are unbelievable!

The RM will be for sale soon!

[ktmpegger]

Originally Posted by Jason380mxc

I know this is a KTM forum, but I would like to here about your KX500AF. I had a 02 CR500AF that I loved, but had to sell for the cash. I wanted to post this info I found for all the 2T riders regarding break in. Makes sence to me.

Jerry Hall is a very well respected engine builder and Tuner. These are his thoughts om 2 stroke engine break in...

....this is what the man said...

1. If the ring is round, and the bore is round... the ring is seated..... period. If you find excessive blow by, get a new machinist.

2. No, you cannot "Heat Treat" anything inside your motor by following some heat cycle ritual you saw on Thumpertalk....

3. So, what are you trying to accomplish then? In a nutshell...... you are trying to acclimatize the piston to the bore..... I'll explain.

Obviously, when the engine is cold, everything is at room temperature. Once started the piston heats quickly, while the cylinder takes a while to catch up as it has both greater mass, and cooling water running through it. At some point the piston will reach a final " No Load" temp of perhaps 300 degrees, and so will the cooling system if we dont start riding.... so monitor things closely and shut off the bike once it gets pretty warm ( Coolant starting to come out of the overflow..)

Great!!! You just did your first run in. The only real purpose is to check your work and see if the engine runs, and is doesnt leak.

At this point you should do two things... retorque the bolts and hoses, and put as large a pilot jet and the engine will take for your riding conditions.

Now, for the breakin- and the reasons behind it.

First imagine your getting into the jacuzzi, and its 103 degrees.... Do you just hop right in? NOWAY! The twig and berries must be slowly acclimatized to the elevated tempreture, or severe discomfort will be the only result... Your piston is no different.

Once you have checked your bolts, and jetting the pilot up, find a fairly large riding area... start the bike, and warm it up. Once done ...... Ride.

The goal is to get the jug up to operation tempreture, then increase the piston temp in stages, up to max operating temp.

How is this done?

1. Once the engine is warm, make a few hard acceleration runs in FIRST GEAR ONLY! This will bring the piston temp up to about 350 degrees.

2. Then make a few runs through first and into second.... 375 degrees.

3. 1st, 2nd, and into third...... 400 degrees

4. 2nd and 3rd.... 425 degrees

5. 3rd and 4th.... 500 degrees

6. 4th and 5th..... 675 degrees.

What you have effectivly done is the mechanical version of lowering yourself into that jacuzzi I mentioned. As the temperature of the piston increased, you very slowly brought the piston to full size, and any micro " highspots" were allowed to mate together for brief periods of time, and then the throttle was closed and EXTRA OIL was allowed into the engine by the oversized pilot jet to both cool and lubricate.

NOTE! No increase was made to the needle or main jet as this would hamper the ability to get the piston temp up to where it should be.

Jerry stated that on his dyno, he can accomplish this drill in about 10 minutes. On a bike it should take about 20. Once done, go hammer that thing!

Excessive running in the garage does nothing.
Putt-Putting ( Babying) the motor for the first hour does nothing.
Some exotic battery of timed heat cycles, cooling off, more cycles, more cooling is hogwash.

The basic fact is that by slowly bringing the piston to size, and at a controlled rate, it's allowed mate to the cylinder wall properly where it can have a long life.

Good write up and with the newer materials and tighter tolerances and better oils maybe the old break-in way is a thing of the past for the engine. But on a brand new bike there are more things that need to break-in than just the engine. My riding partner followed the Yamaha break in procedure for his brand new 2010 YZ450F which was basically give it an hour at varying speeds, let it cool and then hammer it! A year later the transmission blew out costing him $2400 to repair. The engine is fine though.

[compmoto]

twigs and berries ! HAH! that's good stuff !
that's some usable info there on "break-in" procedures.


kudos to u for buying a NEW 2t ! men do ride those...
and thanx for your service !

I got to ride south of 'Vegas when I was there for SEMA in Nov.
I had a great time riding terrain I had never experienced before! Too bad for me, the older rider I was with, kept riding ahead so far, he could stop to adjust his bike, while I caught up! He was a good rider. I heard a rumor that he made alot of those trails anyhow.He still was a fast desert rider,even if he was piloting a Honda diesel. I was also riding a 525KTM clapper.
Do you have plenty of riding areas there? It's getting tougher here in the eastern metro areas to ride, unless you pack up and take at least an hour drive...we only had to drive 15 mins south of the "Strip" to take a blast down to Whiskey Pete's !