KTM Forums banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

Registered
Joined
1,624 Posts
Ummmm, my chain is still the one that came on the bike from new, 32,000kms ago. I haven't checked but I thought/assumed it was a ZVM-X or similar. It hasn't had to be adjusted much and seems to be wearing as well as the oem DID I had on my CR1100XX Honda (and that lasted 100,000kms).

I'll have to sneak out to the bike and confirm the p/no..... when I wrote 'normal' chain I meant oem spec ...if that caused any confusion I'm sorry.

I'll still be a little skeptical of the new tech chains until word gets out from buyers, but if they work as claimed they may be worth the money, and once others start to market similar spec chains they may even be cheaper (is there such a thing in the bike world :eek:) ....... (y)
 

Registered
Joined
1,624 Posts
Don't kid yourself Dave. It won't even come close to the lifespan of DID's own ZVM-X and at a similar price, it shouldn't get a mention.
Cheers Joe, got down on my hands and knees today and wiped a bit of sludge off my chain to discover the stock chain is a 525VZ 'x' ring......... oh well, that's close to a ZV..... errrr M-X...... sorta........ :LOL:.

But I was pleased, when I did the old hold tension on it trick and pull on the rear link pin, to find it has no movement, so it is still fine at 32,000kms.......... I note the KTM test for chain wear is to hold tension and measure the distance between 18 pins (if I recall correctly) at "point B" :D....... but that'll have to wait till I feel fit enough to get the bike out and put it up on a stand.

So it looks like I'll be heading for 17/42 sproxs and a longer length of ZVM-X 525 chain in a year or so...... dammit, I used to knock out 20k kms a year, I think the 'fickle finger of fate' has been messing with me....... :censored:

Oh well, here's hoping 2021 will be a good riding year!
 

Registered
Joined
184 Posts
Cheers Joe, got down on my hands and knees today and wiped a bit of sludge off my chain to discover the stock chain is a 525VZ 'x' ring......... oh well, that's close to a ZV..... errrr M-X...... sorta........ :LOL:.
Cheers for doing that Dave. You definitely have a different chain to my OEM as that was a DID (VAZ). It's the one KTM list on their chain/sprocket set, so I wouldn't touch that with a barge pole.
I possibly have a pet hate with chain sets, as Triumph used to do kits that included a budget o-ring chain and not the DID VM x-ring chain which you'd expect.
 

Registered
Joined
990 Posts
I'm around 24,000 miles on the stock chain. I do very little maintenance, like I bought a cleaning brush when I bought the bike and didn't start to look for where I put it until around 10,000 miles at 14k I gave up and bought a new brush and there you have it. belt and shaft drives spoiled me so if someone's pitching a maintenance free chain add i'm gainfully employed they'll get my money, probably, eventually.
 

Registered
2020 1290 Superduke GT.
Joined
33 Posts
Dave au,Do you think the 16/40 set up is ok for the 2020 gt,i have had my bike only a month but i am not going to keep riding a 6 gear bike everywhere in 5th,here in our very overcrowded UK you spend most of the time around 60mph and this bike does not want to know 6th gear unless you are doing 70,i bought it more for the touring if i wanted an out and out sports bike i would have bought an R,and riding around in 5th all the time surely makes it worse on fuel,i have a rubberised 16t sprocket from my 1190 adventure so just need a 40t rear.I have read the rear is easy to change but the front will be loctited on and need some leverage i think i will let the shop do it at the 1st service if the chain has stretched enough.
 

Premium Member
Joined
287 Posts
Dave au,Do you think the 16/40 set up is ok for the 2020 gt,i have had my bike only a month but i am not going to keep riding a 6 gear bike everywhere in 5th,here in our very overcrowded UK you spend most of the time around 60mph and this bike does not want to know 6th gear unless you are doing 70,i bought it more for the touring if i wanted an out and out sports bike i would have bought an R,and riding around in 5th all the time surely makes it worse on fuel,i have a rubberised 16t sprocket from my 1190 adventure so just need a 40t rear.I have read the rear is easy to change but the front will be loctited on and need some leverage i think i will let the shop do it at the 1st service if the chain has stretched enough.
16/40 works with a stock chain. I have been running 16/40 for 7,000 miles, and I love it! At the time, I did not know anything about rubberised sprockets, so I am running regular sprockets without any issues. 4,000 RPM in 4th gear = 40 MPH, 5th = 50, 6th = 60, since I always ride at 4,000 RPM or greater where the bike is ready to pounce. Since all of my riding is done at 5,600 ft. elevation or greater, my mileage is always mid 40's mpg.
 

Registered
2020 1290 Superduke GT.
Joined
33 Posts
Thanks jim,That's what i want to be able to ride it in 6th at 60mph without it rattling itself to death and i'm assuming it will lose about 30mph top speed,probably still do 130mph which you will rarely get to over here,i am looking at an ESJOT rear sprocket,wonder if anybody has heard of them,they are german and half the price of the SITTA one's.
 

Premium Member
Joined
287 Posts
Thanks jim,That's what i want to be able to ride it in 6th at 60mph without it rattling itself to death and i'm assuming it will lose about 30mph top speed,probably still do 130mph which you will rarely get to over here,i am looking at an ESJOT rear sprocket,wonder if anybody has heard of them,they are german and half the price of the SITTA one's.
Since the sprockets and chain are wear items that have to be replaced periodically, I don't think it makes that much difference. That is one of the reasons I jumped straight to 16/40. I figured if I didn't like it, I would change to something different when it was time to replace them.
 

Registered
Joined
1,624 Posts
Thanks jim,That's what i want to be able to ride it in 6th at 60mph without it rattling itself to death and i'm assuming it will lose about 30mph top speed,probably still do 130mph which you will rarely get to over here,i am looking at an ESJOT rear sprocket,wonder if anybody has heard of them,they are german and half the price of the SITTA one's.
Cheers Gaz1290GT,

Suns up over here and I've walked the dog...... time to check the forum :LOL:........ Yes 16/40 is a good compromise and I have been running it for a year and over 15,000kms. I started out by installing a 40T rear with the stock 17T front and thought that was pretty good, but I still only used 5 cogs (though the bike was still new and the engine tight even at 10k kms).

The benefits of 16/40 outweigh the negatives....... it is more like a Japanese bike in slow traffic (no need to ride the clutch at crawling speeds), and there is no issue with spooky sprocket wear or chain guide wear theories.

The internal gearbox ratio's are quite weird so that's why I say it is a compromise. I can ride my well and truly run in GT in 6th at 4k rpm (at 100kph/60mph) without the engine struggling up small hills and it does not rev itself to bits like some thought it would at 130/160/kph as the internal ratio's are very "long". I've been around the clock a few times on bikes over the 45yrs I've been riding and I know when gearing is not right...... ;)

However, 5th gear spins a bit faster now than stock, so it now spins over at 4.5-4750rpm at 100kph (if I haven't confused myself as I have not been riding much lately). This doesn't bother the GT at all in the hilly zones - my gen 1 engine still prefers to run nearer to 5k rpm than below 4k anyway........ the gen 2 (like yours) has some changes to the exhaust plumbing and a heavier crankshaft so may be less sensitive. 1st gear is now shorter than the stock 17/38, but not ridiculously short. There are two gears I can use now for each speed zone... eg 3rd, or 4th, will cover for 60kph (40mph) zones, whereas stock was looking for a gear between 2nd & 3rd, which felt either too low or too high. Now it's far more normal and so much easier to deal with all traffic scenario's, with no loss of open road ability - if you lived in say Texas where there are no cops out in the lonely unpopulated areas, then stock gearing is not a problem ;) ........ but I live in a city and traffic is a part of any trip before I can get out into open country..... and even then the plod is out with radar's and camera's and eye's in the sky........ sighhhhh :censored:

I recommend you start out by DIY installing a 40T rear cog and see if your gen 2 is happy enough with that change. That's just the cost of a Supersprox steel sprocket (approx $40Au) and 15mins of time to install on the 'quick change' rear hub system. If after a few kms you feel the engine wants more help, then you could get the shop to install a 16T KTM sprocket at a service, with the rubber damping material (it runs quieter and smoother than a bare steel sprocket and only costs $5 more). Keep in mind the 1301cc takes a long time to loosen up fully - so give it heaps and don't baby it, or it will take even longer to settle in. Mine is now giving it's best after 32,000kms/20,000miles!

It's nice to read that many more long term owners have gone 16/40...... but 17/40 on the gen 2 might be all you need for your motorway speed zones (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gaz1290GT

Premium Member
Joined
287 Posts
Cheers Gaz1290GT,

Suns up over here and I've walked the dog...... time to check the forum :LOL:........ Yes 16/40 is a good compromise and I have been running it for a year and over 15,000kms. I started out by installing a 40T rear with the stock 17T front and thought that was pretty good, but I still only used 5 cogs (though the bike was still new and the engine tight even at 10k kms).

The benefits of 16/40 outweigh the negatives....... it is more like a Japanese bike in slow traffic (no need to ride the clutch at crawling speeds), and there is no issue with spooky sprocket wear or chain guide wear theories.

The internal gearbox ratio's are quite weird so that's why I say it is a compromise. I can ride my well and truly run in GT in 6th at 4k rpm (at 100kph/60mph) without the engine struggling up small hills and it does not rev itself to bits like some thought it would (the internal ratio's are very "long").

However 5th gear spins a bit faster than stock so instead of 4000rpm at 100kph(=60mph) in 5th it now spins over at 4.5-4750rpm which doesn't bother the GT at all in the hilly zones - my gen 1 engine still prefers to run nearer to 5k rpm than below 4k anyway........ the gen 2 (like yours) has some changes to the exhaust plumbing and a heavier crankshaft so may be less sensitive. 1st gear is now shorter than the stock 17/38, but not ridiculously short. There are two gears I can use now for each speed zone now... eg 3rd, or 4th, will cover for 60kph (40mph) zones, whereas stock was looking for a gear between 2nd & 3rd which felt either too low or too high. Now it's far more normal and so much easier to deal with traffic, with no loss of open road ability - if you lived in say Texas where there are no cops out in the lonely unpopulated areas, then stock gearing is not a problem ;) ........ but I live in a city and traffic is a part of any trip before I can get out into open country.

I recommend you start out by DIY installing a 40T rear cog and see if your gen 2 is happy enough with that change. That's just the cost of a Supersprox steel sprocket (approx $40Au) and 15mins of time to install on the 'quick change' rear hub system. If after a few kms you feel the engine wants more help, then you could get the shop to install a 16T KTM sprocket at a service, with the rubber damping material (it runs quieter and smoother than a bare steel sprocket and only costs $5 more). Keep in mind the 1301cc takes a long time to loosen up fully - so give it heaps and don't baby it, or it will take even longer to settle in. Mine is now giving it's best after 32,000kms/20,000miles!

It's nice to read that many more long term owners have gone 16/40...... but 17/40 on the gen 2 might be all you need for your motorway speed zones (y)
Can you use the stock chain with 17/40? Another benefit to the 16/40 setup is you don't have to drop down to 1st gear, as often, on slow right hand turns in traffic or mountain switchbacks.
 

Registered
Joined
1,624 Posts
Can you use the stock chain with 17/40? Another benefit to the 16/40 setup is you don't have to drop down to 1st gear, as often, on slow right hand turns in traffic or mountain switchbacks.
Yes indeed....... though it's a bit tight a fit when the mileage's are really low....... it fits after say a 1000 or 2 miles but the chain slack adjustment is all the way to minimum. So ew owners need to get out there and give it plenty of welly as part of the break in and that will help when it comes time to adjust the gearing ;)

Note - take care when doing the rear sprox change...... fit the sprox to the chain, with the hub fully backed off to max slack, and then place onto the hub - make sure the lug bolts are fitted into their recesses when torquing the sprocket nuts. The machined surface of the sprocket should face inwards to the hub to line up with the front sprocket (you can see the wear marks on the stock sprox which confirm which side has the marks where the nuts have been tightened).

PS I took a while for to decide what to do (forum had conflicting opinions in the early days), so a 40T fitted in very easily at 10k kms (6k miles) as the chain had worn in nicely. I later decided to try a 16t front (at a recall booking or the 15k service in prep for a long trip) and have never looked back...... though I did briefly test the 16/38 combo, but quickly went back to 16/40.
 

Attachments

Registered
2020 1290 Superduke GT.
Joined
33 Posts
Thanks guys for your very much appreciated input and DaveAu for the detail of what everyday riding will mean with the changes,i have been babying it for the first 200 miles never went over 4000 revs,in the last 150 miles have been taking it to 6 and its getting smoother,so i will do as you suggest get about 1000miles on it then put the 40t on i think it will take that long for the chain to have any leeway then go from there,did 350 miles in 2 weeks then lockdown so itching to get back out and try my bar risers then the sprocket.
 

Registered
Joined
277 Posts
Can you use the stock chain with 17/40? Another benefit to the 16/40 setup is you don't have to drop down to 1st gear, as often, on slow right hand turns in traffic or mountain switchbacks.
Yes you can use existing chain with 17/40, its what i run on both my GT and now on my1290R. The chain stretches enough in its first 5000kms for this sprocket combo to fit.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top