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Just got a 2012 50 exc and following this thread closely... I want to desmog it but I have a couple of questions: I got a bag of bolts with my kit and I realize that one of them is used to plug the hole from the SAS system - When you remove the catch canister, what do you use to plug the hole where the tube connects to the motor? Does this bolt come with the kit? (What is the use of all of these bolts?).

On a second note, on my first ride, I lost the screen insert on the exhaust... Should I leave as is?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as my dealer is clueless...
 

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First of all, Wizard/Scott - thanks for the simple to follow instructions! I just finished the "smog mod" tonight, and it couldn't have been easier.

Bobbike, to plug off the small hole on the intake side, I went to the auto parts store and got a rubber cap that is used to plug off extra outlets on a car's vacuum system. As for the screen insert, it may have something to do with the spark arresting system (for preventing forest fires) but shouldn't affect the operation of the bike.
 

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Ok, I can feel I might get long winded with this reply for you... but here goes.

(removing SAS valve)

Ok, first you remove the rubber hose from the valve's hose nipple and set the hose somewhere, then I used a 3/4" (or 19mm) "crow's foot" wrench to loosen the aluminum lock-nut (it only needs to be cracked loose, that's all) If you don't have a crow's foot wrench, you might try to reach in with a typical wrench and see if you can grab onto just enough of the locknut to crack it loose. Then I simply rotated the entire valve counter-clockwise to remove it from the engine, but you'll quickly notice that it only rotates about 90 degrees and then the nipple will hit the radiator hose/thermostat housing. I simply pushed that hose/housing away from the valve with the right hand while I rotated the valve with the left hand and it will scrape a little but it does clear and it will continue to spin out all the way after doing that about 3 times. If you don't want to do that you can simply remove the small screws that hold the valve halves together and it will then spin out easily, but really that's not necessary.
Then remember that the bolt that you need to plug the hole where the SAS was removed is a 12mmx1.5 thread. I removed the locknut from the SAS valve and took it with me to Lowes to buy a bolt and quickly found out that Lowes stocks 12mm x 1.25 thread, and 12mm x 1.75 thread, but NOT the 1.5mm thread bolts. So I had to go to a nut & bolt store to buy my bolt.

The SAS valve does the exact same job as the "air pump" does on cars in the '80's and '90's. It allows outside air to be administered into the exhaust near the engine so as the air gets mixed with the exhaust, the 21% of oxygen in the air helps to more completely burn the un-burned hydrocarbons as the air and the unburned HC's travel down the exhaust pipe so that by the time the exhaust exits the pipe there is less un-burned HC's emitted. This system on the KTM acts like an exhaust leak near the exhaust pipe/head flange and that's why it pops in the exhaust during deceleration is because of the cold air coming into the exhaust from the SAS is exactly like an exhaust leak sucking in cold air during deceleration.

The EVAP system isn't allowing cold air into the exhaust, it's allowing outside air directly into the intake port of the cylinder, leaning out the mixture substantially which is why the idle has to be adjusted after removing the EVAP system. I honestly believe that KTM is going to have longevity issues with the EXC engines if they continue to leave the ECM programming the way it presently is now in regards to this EVAP system. It's just simply bad news and not engineered properly I think. After removing both systems I feel soooooooooooooooo much better about my bike's longevity for the long run, and I am also not embarassed anymore by the extreme backfiring or popping.

Scott in Utah

THANK YOU Scott!!!!!! :yes:

I have been so extremely frustrated with this bike since the day I bought it, 10 minutes later after following your direction, it runs flawlessly. I am no longer embarrassed to decelerate in front of people. Again, thank you! :punk:
 

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Good info, just what I was looking for. Wondered about the SAS, had just googled it & found your forum thread. Thanks, just took it off of mine.

Do you have the part # for the plug you installed after removing the SAS unit?
 

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Boostracer, the part number I just asked the parts guy to order me the bolt from a 500 xc-w but just so you know I realized later after re-reading the first posts in this thread that you don't need to plug off the two holes coming off the plastic thing down below like in the vidoe I made, instead you can just remove that little sensor. My bike is still popping though. Seems like I have cut off the extra air the bike was getting and now maybe I'm getting too much fuel. I'm checking with some local KTM gearheads in my area. Someone told me I could get the xc-w black box (brain) and have it re-maped. Apparently the exc black box is set from the factory and can not be re-maped.
Thanks, GoDog, I'll stop by Mach 1 & have him order me a bolt, looks much cleaner. I just shortened & rethreaded an old seat belt bolt I had for now. Sent you a pm. Update: I looked up the part # online, it's item 13 on cylinder head drawing, 78036024000.
 

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remapping

Boostracer, the part number I just asked the parts guy to order me the bolt from a 500 xc-w but just so you know I realized later after re-reading the first posts in this thread that you don't need to plug off the two holes coming off the plastic thing down below like in the vidoe I made, instead you can just remove that little sensor. My bike is still popping though. Seems like I have cut off the extra air the bike was getting and now maybe I'm getting too much fuel. I'm checking with some local KTM gearheads in my area. Someone told me I could get the xc-w black box (brain) and have it re-maped. Apparently the exc black box is set from the factory and can not be re-maped.
I didn't remap my bike when I did this. I see that you removed the "solenoid thing" you had plugged off in the video. I did the same thing - just unplugged the wiring and routed the plug up under the seat. Not sure if you adjusted the setting on your idle speed adjusting screw. If I remember correctly, you have to turn it out (CCW) quite a few times. Maybe that's the problem with yours?
 

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500exc backfire

I didn't remap my bike when I did this. I see that you removed the "solenoid thing" you had plugged off in the video. I did the same thing - just unplugged the wiring and routed the plug up under the seat. Not sure if you adjusted the setting on your idle speed adjusting screw. If I remember correctly, you have to turn it out (CCW) quite a few times. Maybe that's the problem with yours?
Thanks Dwigmore, I will back it out a few more times , I only turned it a little out, it's actually kinda hard to get too. I even noticed it act like a choke if you pull it out like most carbs do but it would be hard to reach it with cloves on and there is no need since the bike fires rite up without it.
 

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2013 500 exc

I am new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2013 500 EXC and I guessing the emissions removal procedure is the same for my bike.
 

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re: backfiring issues

Just a quick addition to this topic, and thanks so much to everyone who has contributed. I bought a 2012 EXCF 350 in April, and long story short, it has been sluggish and backfiring like crazy the more I have been riding it. As it is a new bike, I have been a little bit leery to start tearing parts off it. Yesterday I broke down and removed the SAS and the EVAP, following instructions from the previous posts. This is now a brand NEW machine, and I am gleaming as it has never ran this good, no backfiring at all, and a new throttle response it just didn't seem to have before!!! :yes:

As far as parts go, I removed everything except the bolts from the EVAP and the SAS that go into the cylinder head. All I did is attach a left over hose to each, plugging the ends with bolts until I find proper sized plugs/bolts to fit into the cylinder to complete the job.

This is my first KTM and definitely not my last. I am hooked, thanks again!
 

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I am totally befuddled. I followed the removal instructions and still cannot get the bike to stop backfiring. I plugged both the SAS inlet and the smaller inlet with bolts & Locktite. Yesterday during a ride, I noticed the billet gas cap valve fell off. I am guessing pressure built in the tank & blew the one-way valve off? That sort of implies that there must be another vent route that perhaps I plugged off incorrectly (otherwise how does the tank release pressure?).

I am going to pull the entire thing apart this week to see if I missed something. :( :death:
 

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I had the same issue with my '13 500 and after reading this trend I plugged the SAS at the inlet tube before the valve, disconnected the 2 pin connector on the EVAP system and removed the plug on the fuel vent under the bike. This is now a whole new machine! After doing more searching I found a desmog kit from Blais Racing Services for $40. They also suggest the JD EFI tuner for better response. I haven't purchased a tithing yet but plan to do so and also buy the FMF Snap. Has anyone tried these mods or maybe have any feedback? As this is my first plated birt dike and 4t I'm not sure if I'm required to smog or If DMV will know the difference if I remove these parts. I'm concerned about get my bike inspected before my driving test. Just to be safe I'll enable the systems and let it run like crap for the test before I remove it completely.

Pete
 

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I think you'd be better throwing your money in the toilet than buying th FMF Snap.

Remember the Turbinator for cars? :sweatdrop:
 

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Post mod idle setting info

Post mod idle setting:

Blais Racing suggests turning the idle adjustment screw all the way out (CCW) and then back in 17 clicks....

Roy
 

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Post mod idle setting:

Blais Racing suggests turning the idle adjustment screw all the way out (CCW) and then back in 17 clicks....

Roy
I had to end up going out another two clicks.
 

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Yes, yes and yes, I am running the JD tuner and idle is set at 15 clicks. This has so far cured all my issues. The bike runs like it should, I couldn't be happier!
 
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