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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping somebody has had a similar issue and it's an easy fix before I take my bike into the shop. I've tried an oil change and replaced the air filter to start out.

When the engine is just warming up, it will idle between 1200-1500 RPM, and after maybe 30 seconds, the engine will cut off. I turn it back on, and it will happen a couple more times until the engine is warm. Is there a way to adjust the idle RPM? It seems like it would not cut out if the idle RPM was slightly higher.

Another potentially related issue, which seems worse than the first issue is that if I stall the engine from a bad start or something, I have a really hard time getting the engine to start back up. It takes a minute or two of tweaking the gears, rocking it around, messing with the throttle, etc. before it will finally start again. I haven't actually figured out a consistent way to get it started again when the engine gets into that funky state - I just try stuff until it eventually turns over.

The weird thing is that if I don't stall it, and I turn it off normally with the key or shut-off switch, it will start up without a problem.

I'm not sure if the cold idle and stalled engine issues are related, but they seem to have started around the same time.

Any advice or help is useful. Thank you in advance!
 

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ive always thought these things are vacuum signal and fuel
the reason is the extremely hard start after a stall.
what does a stall do that a normal shut off doesnt?

does the stall bounce a lean type wave back into the intake, the map sensor received some abnormal data, then you try start it and the intake is dry, the map sensor doesnt sense the vacuum immediately.... hmmm

the best thing is to dump fuel, dont go back to the same pump, add all new fuel.

most guys would run a sensor mod, either o2 or air temp.

but seriously it could be 2 or 3 things that limit the fuel injection quantity to fark all during idle....
 

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I'm hoping somebody has had a similar issue and it's an easy fix before I take my bike into the shop. I've tried an oil change and replaced the air filter to start out.
Is the bike completely stock? How many km's at what year Duke is it?

Cors could be onto something with the vaccuum lines... pull the side panels and seat and take a gander down there to make sure everything is connected properly and that no lines are cracked.

The other thing you could try is the 15 minute idle reset. Anyone have any experience with this or is it as straight forward as turning the bike on and letting it idle for 15 minutes NOT TOUCHING ANYTHING?
 

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The other thing you could try is the 15 minute idle reset. Anyone have any experience with this or is it as straight forward as turning the bike on and letting it idle for 15 minutes NOT TOUCHING ANYTHING?
yeah , with a bike thats idling for a certain amount of time , some say 15min , some say until the fan comes on, some say 10 min.
But in anycase , given no throttle input for that amount of time, it resets the o2 closed loop which handles idle and part opening of throttle , part throttle cruise. It takes away the trim values that have been added to the ecu by the 02 sensor. with a reset the closed loop is running starign from a base type setting. Almost always a but richer than trimmed idle..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions. I attempted the 15-minute reset, and I didn't see any difference, but I may try it again. I ended up cleaning the fuel injector - sprays nicely. I don't think that was the issue, but I put some SeaFoam in the mix for good measure. I'll probably start fueling somewhere else when possible as well. I've looked at the non-ethanol places, but those have usually lower octane levels. I can't remember the octane, but I thought it was below the recommended level. I'll have to check next time I drive by.

Rottweiler Fueling Dongle (690/701) looks interesting for richer fuel below 5500 RPM. More fuel consumption stinks, but I always wanted more low RPM power anyway. Hopefully it at least fixes the idling issues.

My engine/exhaust/stuff that makes it go is all stock, about 2000 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put the O2 dongle on, and the idle issue interestingly became worse - the idling engine will sometimes shut off even when the engine is warm. When over 2000 RPM, there seems to be no issue with or without the dongle.

I just changed the fuel filter and put on a new fuel injector with no noticeable effect - except that now I cannot seem to get the bike into the funky state where it's hard to start after a stall. It seems like I just have the idling issue now.

I don't understand why the O2 dongle would have a negative effect since all I've heard from people using it is that it has helped idling.

Could it be something like a spark plug even though there's no misfire at higher RPMs?
Could it be the ignition timing?

I'm not giving up yet and taking it into the shop because it's useful to understand this bike - but man... it's almost spring!
 

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Yep, the dongle is only a bandaid even in the best circumstances....

Also fitting a dongle only means your driving on the ecu closed loop capability, older ecu have less processing, less useful range. They have been changing ecu often. Mostly the flagship duke 690 gets new ecu and it filters out to other model's....... Its hard to say when the bike is new. If you have a good ktm place then they have swappable parts. If they are jap bikes, you might find that you start directing them to a cure after they checked, found nothing and charged you....... It happens in the USA more than any other place.
 
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