[Grizz]

So got and 2011 RC8R last year did as about as many mechanical and electronics mods that I can. The bike is aweso,e. Now to show some love for my 1290 SAS. I did do an exhaust and fornt wheel mod for the bike. Love my 17" Super Duke wheel up front and I made a bracket and put a Super Duke GT exhaust pipe on it. I also made a set of spoked wheels for it as well. Just in case I get the urge to go off road on it. Just hard to find the time and group to do so.

As you can tell I have an RC8R and I love taking it out on some twisty roads not far from me. I five done 1 track day on it and did the California Superbike school at VIR. So for me the reason for the 1290 SAS is to be a true sports touring phenom. The 17" front really puts the Sport into S. So now after riding on the RC8R missile I am thinking it's time to do some engine performance work on the 1290 SAS. So without doing a lot of research here is my initial gut to do list,

Put a stage 3 Rotty air box on her. Remove all the SAS and SAIS systems and canister, Pull off the stock headers , knock out the catalytic honeycomb in the exhaust and then ceramic coat the entire exhaust system minus the rear drop header which is insulated. Then either keep the Super Duke GT slip on or put on an Austin racing slip on. After I am done just take it to a Dyno tune that a n handel a KTM a ECU and have them max out performance.

That is how I see it. I am thinking I can get 175 to 180 at crank with mid 150's at the rear running 93 octane fuel.

Or should I get Stage 6 with and Arrow ceramic header, and then just use maps from Rotwieller with PCV and ignition module. I can decide whether to go with the Austin racing slip on latter.

I think my way will be a lot cheaper. Rottweiler Stage 6, $1,700, Arrow header $827,

Versus knocking out catalytic and then ceramic coating my exhaust $150 plus more wrench time, and a Rottweiler Stage 3 $700 +/- and then probably $400 or so for a dyno tune, if I can get it done. So $1,300 my way , $2,600 if I do the Rottweiler Stage 6 and Arrow and .

Just think a Austin racing slip on would be the bomb.

I guess your probably thinking why not just get a 2022 Super Duke R EVO. That has popped in my mind , but at 6' 5" 270 lbs theergo on the SAS are sick and if I can get 1290 Duke performance, why not?

Give me your take on this before I cast of the bow line and I am on my way.

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[steve59]

I have the 2022 sas and just traded my gen 1 sdr in on a 2022 1290 evo and I don't think the cams are the same. the sas pulls much better in low rpm's and the sdr just loves to wind out while the sas is working to build rpm in direct comparison, maybe it's the head design or something else, idk but I agree the sas is really comfy and it would be sweet to have the best of both worlds. My sdr with wind protection, upright seating, luggage and a 6 gallon tank I think it would sell. I know guys are going to say that's the gt, but the gt is still cramped compared to the sas. I feel ya. I have both and when on one miss the best of the other, not enough to spoil the ride, bit ya can't not notice.

 

[Grizz]

Yes the SDR differs in the cam and timing. As a result the engine pulls harder and end up higher in power band. The SAS is set up more for touring , cam and timing is set back. Which in effect produces more torque and power at lower revs. It’s a street bike engine. The SDR is more of a racing engine. You can get coder at doing both by having variable cam and timing. The C14 Kawasaki Concours has this and it was quite effective giving you more low end torque while still having blistering high end.

All I can say is for street riding I prefer torque , torque and more torque. So the SAS layout is fine for me , I just want to get as much juice out of it as I can. Why because I love the race to the limiter as well.

I could just trade my RC8R for a 2022 SDR Evo , but I just love it. It is a true icon of motorcycle super bike development. So for trips I am just aiming to get the most I can out of the SAS


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[StuntmanRon]

The 17" front looks awesome on this model SAS, was keen to explore the option, but with way roads are her in Australia, the 19" front is good as roads turn to gravel/dirt very quickly once beyond the metro area!
Both are pretty enticing options, I have sort of split the difference, have sourced a Rottweiler Stage 3 Kit, SAS delete, etc, then gone for a Wings Can and grabbed a Dobermann Performance Ti exhaust [with Cat delete]. So ~2k USD mark.
My aim is to improve mid-range [with fuel dongles], improve exhaust sound [noise to others, ha!] and added benefit of weight reduction [to offset my fat arse].
Just some food for thought for you before dropping the coin.

 

[Grizz]

The 17" front looks awesome on this model SAS, was keen to explore the option, but with way roads are her in Australia, the 19" front is good as roads turn to gravel/dirt very quickly once beyond the metro area!
Both are pretty enticing options, I have sort of split the difference, have sourced a Rottweiler Stage 3 Kit, SAS delete, etc, then gone for a Wings Can and grabbed a Dobermann Performance Ti exhaust [with Cat delete]. So ~2k USD mark.
My aim is to improve mid-range [with fuel dongles], improve exhaust sound [noise to others, ha!] and added benefit of weight reduction [to offset my fat arse].
Just some food for thought for you before dropping the coin.

Thanks M8


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[H20 MRV]

I have the arrow can on mine ( UK ) and am thinking of going with the headers / de cat, Will it need to be re-mapped ? Will it improve the performance without a map or will it just get upset? Then if it needs mapped who does it preferably in Scotland?

 

[Grizz]

Here is what I noticed on my 2016 SAT. I knocked out the CAT only No Rotty sir box. Any hoot it sounded a lot better and the heat did dissipate. I think it did suffer a little on low end torque. Not noticeable but basic understanding of engine tuning would lead you to that conclusion. Other than a little gargling on deceleration it was the same. It just sounded better a less heat. I did not feel it absolutely needed a re tune.

Truthfully though this mod is all about unleashing some more ponies and gains in torque. With a Rotty intake and a decat a retune is in order . And with of both these items there will be substantial gains. I would think 10 to 15 hp and 3-5 ft lbs of torque. That is the end goal . Real close to 150 hp +/- at the rear wheel. It will be like having a Super Duke R with the ergos of an Adventure bike. I am on it. So either spend $550 for a performance center here in Annapolis MD USA. to dyno tune it , Or get the Rotty Stage 6 with a PCV, Auto Tune and ignition module.


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[Grizz]

I have the arrow can on mine ( UK ) and am thinking of going with the headers / de cat, Will it need to be re-mapped ? Will it improve the performance without a map or will it just get upset? Then if it needs mapped who does it preferably in Scotland?

To answer your question directly if you go with the racing header and exhaust. As with mine it will probably loose some torque. Will you be able to notice it? Probably not. You big gains will be heat reductions and , sound will be louder and deeper. You will probably gain a few ponies in the higher power band but again not much. At least anything you will notice. It will gurgle and pop a little bit in deceleration. But again not much. You gas mileage will be about the same.

Does it need a tune? That a personal question as nothing is earth shattering either way. If you tune you will get some more ponies though not much. If you really want to wake it up, you will need to do Rottwieler stage 3 with a dyno tune, or do a Rottweiler Stage 6 with a Power Commander V, Auto tune , and ignition ition module. Finding someone locally to dyno tune will be something you will have to search out locally. If you want find that , then Rottweiler Stage 6 is way to go. Rottweiler pre programs everything . Plug and play

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[Grizz]

So I decided what way to go. Well at least almost. I am going with a Rottweiler Stage 3 intake and a SAS with a fuel dongle for now. As far as exhaust I went with an Arrow stainless race header no cat and you do use the rear down pipe from the existing exhaust. I plan on using VHT flame proof ceramic coat in flat black for the entire header and lastly I am putting an Austin Racing GPR1 slip on . After I get all the install I will ride it a while. See how it runs with the fueling dongle and decide whether I dyno tune it or I put a Power Commander 5 pre mapped from Rottweiler.

Then just to make things interesting I ordered the following graphics

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[DGJ]

Man you're going all out!

Funny, I got my 1290 SAS in 2018 and I love the mill so much I sold my 999S and got a 2014 RC8R (bone stock, 3K miles)... I messed with it for a year, put a jester exhaust (OMG..) and did some minor other mods... but then I felt like it was just too much bike and so I sold it, pretty well too. Paid for all expenses on the bike so it's like I rode it for free for a year. It's an incredible bike, but also kinda scary.

Anyway, on my SAS I went Rottweiler stage 5 - going with the pre-mapped PC5 but NOT the autotune.. (stage 6) you save a few $100s. I think the autotune is overkill. I put an arrow header and an SC Projects black TI pipe. Aside from the fuel consumption taking a big hit, I could't be happier about the engine set up. Haven't dynoed it, but the improvement is extremely noticeable.

I recommend going straight with the PC5.. you won't have any fueling issues. Skipping that step for now will make you wish you didn't, mostly because it's painless and prevents any potential issues.

your SAS looks sharp. I dig the 17" wheel!

 

[Grizz]

Thanks and he 17” front wheel really transforms the feel of the bike.


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[Grizz]

Anticipating by design that the bike will be a hybrid half sport bike half adventure bike, I have done the following:

1: Took of stock pegs and put on some adjustable Puig racing street pegs.

2: took off the hand quarts, moved the bar forward 15 mm in the yoke by reversing the orientation of the mount to the triple clamp and then rotated the bars backwards moving the grip back and down. They barely clear the tank now. Sat on it it make the position just slightly more aggressive. With the Metzler Sportec M9 RR’s on it , ( 120/70 R17 and 180/55 R17 rear this bike handles crazy good.

 

[Grizz]

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[Grizz]

Man you're going all out!

Funny, I got my 1290 SAS in 2018 and I love the mill so much I sold my 999S and got a 2014 RC8R (bone stock, 3K miles)... I messed with it for a year, put a jester exhaust (OMG..) and did some minor other mods... but then I felt like it was just too much bike and so I sold it, pretty well too. Paid for all expenses on the bike so it's like I rode it for free for a year. It's an incredible bike, but also kinda scary.

Anyway, on my SAS I went Rottweiler stage 5 - going with the pre-mapped PC5 but NOT the autotune.. (stage 6) you save a few $100s. I think the autotune is overkill. I put an arrow header and an SC Projects black TI pipe. Aside from the fuel consumption taking a big hit, I could't be happier about the engine set up. Haven't dynoed it, but the improvement is extremely noticeable.

I recommend going straight with the PC5.. you won't have any fueling issues. Skipping that step for now will make you wish you didn't, mostly because it's painless and prevents any potential issues.

your SAS looks sharp. I dig the 17" wheel!

After some thought I just gave in. If it makes to much common sense why fight it. Any hoot just ordered the Power Commander V from Rotwieller.

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[Grizz]

Boxes of happiness arrived today. I got the Rotwieller air intake stage 3 and SAS removal stage 3, along with the graphics. So I stripped off the plastics and will remove tank and header tomorrow. Then I can start on the air box removal and SAS removal.
The Arrow Race Header should be here end of this week along with the Power Commander V . The Austin Racing exhaust is probably going to get here mid to late August as it is entering production in the next couple of weeks or so.

Thinking of putting headlight tint film on. What are your thoughts? Orange , !!! or blue!! Or should I leave it alone. Or just tint the D4 Denalis.

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[steve59]

All I can say is what KTM did with the 1290 is pretty amazing, the new SDR and SAS are like 2 completely different engines. We were out on trails today and the sas can pull from down low like its nothing, my sdr would have stalled violently a dozen times or more today.

 

[Grizz]

So today finished pulling off two pieces of plastic near the front nacelle so l could get at removing the gas tank. Removed the tank and then I started the SAS removal process, block off plates, removed O2 sensors, installed fueling dongles, removed the SAS valve and the SAI valve to the rear charcoal canister. Pulled all the tubes out and the only thing left to do is install the dongle at the old SAI valve. For some reason the supplied dongle does not fit. .

Last thing to do on tubing is to remove the vacuum line tubing , only a few pieces left . Then hook the tigon tubing off the vacuum nipples below each throttle body to the rear of the bike so you can balance the throttle bodies. A little tight where they are located engine braces make the working space pretty small. Then I can install the Rottweiler air box and finish hooking all the tubes to it. I should get this done tomorrow.

I think I should be able to get that along with removing the stock exhaust headers and slip on . So after tomorrow it will be install Power Commander and then put on the exhaust header. Unfortunately header is not suppose to get here till next Tuesday. So I may start installing the new graphics wrap. So it looks like next week will be ceramic painting the exhaust once they get here and then get them on the bike. I’ll probably put on the Super Duke GT slip-on on the bike till my Austin Racing gets here end of the month. It’s is going to be an Epic project.

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[Grizz]

Just got a live technical chat with Rottweiler they sent me wrong kit apparently the dongles are different on the 14-16 year kits. There sending me one out pronto.


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[Grizz]

All I can say is what KTM did with the 1290 is pretty amazing, the new SDR and SAS are like 2 completely different engines. We were out on trails today and the sas can pull from down low like its nothing, my sdr would have stalled violently a dozen times or more today.

They are different engines. The cams are different and I believe shafts and pistons are slightly different. This along with fueling maps gives the engines two different demeanors. That SAS has low end torque and is much more tractable . Of course this is why the SAS puts out only 160 hp while the SDR Puts out 175 hp. Off road and around town the SAS rules. On the track though the SDR rules. Of course this performance comes at some set backs to high end punch. You could put a variable valve timing gearing system as Kawasaki has done on its Concours C14 , but this starts adding complexities and makes for just more shut to go wrong. The SDR tried to help low end torque by putting a exhaust throttle gate. The throttle closes at lower rpm’s builds up pressure which increases torque.

Wirth just intake and racing header on the SAS you can get 170 hp but you now get 103 ft lbs of torque, in addition you can add a dyno jet ignition module that increases the timing about two or three degrees which in the end gives you another 5 hp .

So basically by doing all the above you get incredible performance out of the SAS along with low end torque . Of course if you pursue this on the SDR I would imagine your pushing 190 hp and 100 ft lbs. but you still can get the low end torque of the SAS.

Both machines are I incredible in there own right. This is an attempt to get stock SDR performance out of the SAS. Which you are fast approaching. But for Street ability, for smoothness at lower rpm’s the SAS rules.

My 1190 RC8R is designed a lot like the SDR. Engine wise . Anything below 3,200 rpm and the bike chugs and shutters. So you really try to stay out of this range, but above 7,000 rpm the engine is a beast. It pulls like a freight train from there to redline. Same thing. Great track and speed machine. The trade of is kinda sucks at Street ability.


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[Grizz]

Today finished the tigon tubing ran it to the side for future throttle body balancing. I placed the Scott oiler vacuum line on the end of one of them. Then put on the debris screen and finally installed the air intake. Oiled up the foam filter screens and put in place. Removed the entire exhaust. The down pipe at rear cylinder is used in the Arrow race pipe. So once I get Arrow header in I’ll sand them , clean the with degreaser prime the and them apply black ceramic paint.

Tomorrow the Power Commander V goes on and I may start graphics on the plastics.


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