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2022 1290 Super Duke EVO
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been installing some mods on my SDR EVO lately and thought it might be a good idea to document some of the fitment issues I've run into and the solutions I came up with to solve them. The 3rd gens will all likely share most of the same issues and solutions, so this thread will be applicable to most 3rd Gens, SDR and SDR EVO.

I'll be editing this first post with all the mods as I go to keep all the basic info in one spot. Maybe when I'm done it can be used as a reference sticky if people here think it's useful enough. If anyone needs clarification on any of the below topics, or a suggestion for a change to the thread, just reply to this thread and I'll try to edit it to clear things up as best as I can.

Ok here goes.

First mods I did was to add a phone mount, GPS mount and a USB port. Looking back, I wouldn't add the GPS mount or the USB port as I haven't used them hardly at all. The phone mount has a charger built in so I was going to use the new USB port to power it. However I found a factory USB port on the left side of the TFT display, and that's where I pulled power for the phone charger from.

Anyway, the power wires I used to feed the GPS and added USB port were found under the rear seat. There are a few wires in there that have standard 1/4" female flat blade connectors. I was able to figure out which ones were switched on with the ignition using a basic multimeter. The wires were run under the tank along the right side of the frame. Fuses for both GPS and USB power wires are secured under the front seat.

FYI, the phone mount I used is the Quad Lock mc mount, on which I added the QL vibration dampener, and the QL mc wireless charger mount. The GPS is a Garmin Zumo and the USB port was just a cheap one from Cycle Gear. I stuck the USB port to the top of the triple tree stem nut with some heavy duty outdoor rated double sided sticky tape.


Next up was the carbon fiber bodywork. I got every part of carbon that Rottweiler Performance sells. Most of the carbon I wanted just to get rid of most of the excessive (IMHO) amount of orange on the bike. Not much to say about it since it looked great and all fit pretty good. I did notice that the inner and outer tank shrouds are missing a few clips that are present on the factory plastic parts. They don't appear to have any impact on the shroud parts fitting securely though.

I also installed an EVOTECH Tail Tidy at the same time. Pretty straight forward job and fit and finish was very good. I left the turn signal spacers off to bring those lights closer to center.


Next up was a few Italian bits, a Spark exhaust and Bonamici armor parts I picked up from Moto-D Racing in CT. The exhaust is the Spark Grid-O single side full exhaust. I ran just the can as a slip-on on the factory mid pipe during break-in with the exhaust servo also left in place for now.


The Bonamici parts consisted of bar end lever guards, clutch and stator engine case guards and rearsets. All the Bonamici parts were CNC'd from billet aluminum and looked and fit great. The rearsets look similar to the KTM power parts version, with surface finish being the most obvious difference.




Next up was the SW Motec crash bars. I got them in black, mostly to keep from adding a bunch of orange back onto the bike.


Now comes the first real trouble I've had so far with any after market parts. I installed the front half of the Spark Grid-O full exhaust, and after pulling the exhaust valve servo and cables, the Healtech ESE dongle went in without issue. The trouble started when I tried to install the lower cowl over the the Spark exhaust. With the different pipe routing and profile, especially on the Y pipe, the forward mounting brackets for the cowl were hitting the exhaust. After quite a while grinding the brackets for clearance, the y pipe was about 1/2" - 3/4" too far forward and hitting on the rear and bottom of the lower Y pipe. The side brackets were similarly out of shape to work on the Gen 3. This lower cowl looks like it will only work on Gen 1 and 2 until I completely redesign the mounting brackets. I'll update this section when I come up with a solution.


Continued on next post due to number of allowed picture limits. Please hold any questions until I can complete the next post.
 

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2022 1290 Super Duke EVO
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Part 2:

This next set of mods, the Rottweiler SAS and carbon cannister delete, were the mods that gave me the idea for this thread. Rottweiler currently only has instalation info for Gen 1 and 2 bikes, but could at least confirm that a few customers had successfully installed their kit on Gen 3 SDRs. The biggest difference I found is the location of the carbon cannister and Bluetooth module. On the earlier Gens you gain space under the rear seat when you remove the cannister. Gen 3 bikes already have this space freed up due to the cannister relocation. On the Gen 3 I had to fab an alternate mounting location for the BT module since it's only attached to the front of the carbon cannister via a separate bracket. On my bike the SAS valve was located along the top of the right side of the frame. Other than that the only difference with the SAS was the location of the associated hose routing.


To be able to remove the cannister and relocate the BT module I did some one way mods. That means I sacrificed some parts to build a bracket for the BT module and permanently altered others. If I want to go back to stock, I'll need to replace the BT bracket, carbon cannister and cannister frame mount bracket. You've been warned.

Now, on to what I did to make it work. The frame bracket for the cannister has a nice dovetail section on it so I decided to use that area to reposition the BT module. The other half of the dovetail was part of the body of the carbon cannister, so I had to cut it out of the cannister with a thin grinding disk on an angle grinder. A Dremel would work, but it'll take a lot longer.


Then I cut up the BT bracket so I could attach it to the cannister dovetail. The two parts were then sanded at the joining surface to get a good clean bonding surface. I used plastic bonding glue and screws to attach the two pieces together. BTW, this part is where I got a little too eager with the grinder and cut the BT bracket before considering how the module attached to it. I cut the side tabs off when I should have left them in place so the rubber pouch around the module could still lock in as designed. To make up for it I used zip ties to strap the module to the bracket.


On the cannister frame bracket I had to make a hole near the thinner end of the dovetail to allow the BT wires to pass through without binding.



And so this was my solution to deal with the Gen 3 differences and allow me to do the cannister delete. If anyone has already figured out another way to do this, feel free to post it below.


I forgot to mention an issue I had while doing the SAS delete mod. The kit block off plates are thicker than the factory parts, so I had to get some slightly longer screws to allow them to bolt on with more than just one thread holding them onto the head. The screws I had in my parts box were a bit too long so I ground them down till they fit perfect.


Ok, that's all the pics I can fit on this page. So onto the next. Once again, please hold any replies until I can get the last of the mods listed. I'll give the all clear when I'm done.
 

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2022 1290 Super Duke EVO
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Last mod, for now...

I had gotten some EVOTECH caliper protectors when I got the lower cowl, but hadn't tried to install them yet due to the carbon caliper air ducts being in the way. Now was as good as a time to finish that job. I started with a large cut with the thin grinder wheel to get it close. Then I removed the air duct screw to loosen up the back end of it. From there I pulled the caliper mount bolts, fit the protector in place on the caliper and under the duct. I used a knife tip as a scribe and made a line just behind the duct. More trimming with the grinder and it was closer, but not quite there yet. Scribed it again a little further back and hit it with the grinder again. Now it fit fine so I copied the cut line onto the bracket for the bracket on the other side. Once that was also ground to fit both brackets were smoothed over and repainted then installed. There's now about a 1/16" gap between the protectors and the air ducts.



Last mod (for now) is the EVOTECH radiator guard. The mounting tab on the left side was rubbing on the nearby drain hoses, so I just trimmed about 1/4" off of the edge closest to the hoses so they wouldn't make contact. The little rubber bumpers go into the (hard to find) round holes around the edge of the hex shaped mesh. The thicker part of the bumpers go between the guard and the front of the radiator. No pics yet as the tank shrouds pinch the guard to the brackets on the bike and I still have to mount the shrouds.

I also to install some titanium shorty levers, but those and the radiator guard will be wrapped up tomorrow.

That's it for now, so feel free to comment now if you wish. Thanks for your patience.
 

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2022 1290 Super Duke EVO
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The shorty levers I got from France (via Ebay) look nice and bolted up easy enough, but after riding with them I'm not at all impressed. The front brake doesn't feel too bad, but the clutch lever feels like it's not completely releasing the clutch by the time it contacts the handlebar. The pivot points also seem to have a bit of slop in them compared to the factory levers. I'm just going to put the original levers back on.

Today the Spark Grid-O twin undertail slip-on arrived in the mail and I just finished installing it. I'll say up front that this slip-on won't be for everybody. You will NOT be able to use your passenger pegs, but since I run a solo seat cowl It's not much of a concern for me. It will also likely melt your rear turn signals, especially if you use a tail Tidy. The rearmost edge of the cans contact the turn signal stalks on my Evotech tail Tidy and the factory turn signal bodies (the larger US type) are directly in line with exhaust openings on the cans. To remedy the situation I'm going to install one of those all-in-one tail lights that have the tail, stop and turn lights all in the center housing. The edge of the lisence plate is slightly in front of the ends of the cans, but not enough to worry about IMHO.



As far as the install itself goes, it was very easy and straight forward, which is a good thing since it didn't come with any kind of instructions. I may also want to add some stick on heat shield tape to the underside of the subframe just for piece of mind.

 

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those turn signals are gonna look like roasted marshmallows after a decent ride, no? I appreciate the 990 throwback upper exhaust tho'.
 
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