Another weird error that occurs, which I forgot to mention but I think is worth mentioning - is - Kill Switch error.
It shows as if Kill Switch is engaged, but it isnt, and switching it doesnt make a difference.
And when that error does appear, it is the only one, no other error is present.

That one disappears when, after waiting for a minute or so until (I think) the capacitors run out of juice and the front and back light flashes for a split second.
Then the other errors appear back again.

 

I do not know if this is relevant but I've had multiple error messages like that before and in my case it was a low battery. Now I keep my GT on a trickle charger almost all of the time and I haven't had any more issues. I have never gotten the kill switch issue.

 

My usual suspect, no matter what the trouble, is the battery. After 6 years of owning my GT, that's mostly always held true.

 

I've had a servo dongle for 6 years and never an error. It's basically a resistor with the same impedance as the servo itself. I think C is correct; there's really only one error-weak or poorly-grounded battery.

 

I know you said its a "basically new battery" but it is nuts how sensitive these bikes are to battery health and type. Still using the LED Acid/Gel style vs a Lithium? To have this many concurrent errors - Voltage is a culprit. To trip an error, voltage per sensor would be out of band....hence all the warnings.

If you are confident in the battery, then the other common trigger for concurrent issues is ground wiring. You will need to trace every ground wire on the bike. Also, although tedious, inspect the loom everywhere for a grounding / broken wire.

Not sure what else to suggest?

 

I know you said its a "basically new battery" but it is nuts how sensitive these bikes are to battery health and type. Still using the LED Acid/Gel style vs a Lithium? To have this many concurrent errors - Voltage is a culprit. To trip an error, voltage per sensor would be out of band....hence all the warnings.

If you are confident in the battery, then the other common trigger for concurrent issues is ground wiring. You will need to trace every ground wire on the bike. Also, although tedious, inspect the loom everywhere for a grounding / broken wire.

Not sure what else to suggest?

Alright, if they are sensitive to voltage - can a bad voltage regulator (R/R) be the a cause? Or the generator?
I know how to test them, so probably will do that next (either tomorrow or after it stops raining). I already had issues and did a lot of work on my old Triumph Daytona 955, upgraded to a fancier R/R that also didnt heat up as much.

The battery I checked this morning, last driven last night, had a very positive 12,76 volts, not started during morning.
When the bike is started, it does show 13.8-14.0 volts.
Its a Yuasa battery thats not even a month old. YTZ14S

 

A bad V regulator can make the bike nutz. A bad battery (low voltage) does crazy things to the 1290's also. When running it should charge more than that.... more like 14.4 but don't go by the numbers on the bikes screen - use a multimeter.

 

I could swear I read on an old thread that the bike need 12.8 for the injectors to fire...

 

(26) Reliability - owners without issues? | Page 3 | KTM Forums

This one.

 

So,
Spent the weekend (part of both days) looking into this wiring and all the computers.
I found exactly 0 potential issues.
Found another grounding position next to the ABS block, picture below, also cleaned that but nothing.
I even used the big jump start cables to connect ground from across the bike to the battery to see if that would help out in any way, y'know, extra grounding never disappoints, but - nope, still got errors.
The wiring looked good all over, did not see anything sketchy.
So what I will do now is just go to the dealer, primary asking to remove preload adjusted error, but also will ask them to check if they can see anything extra with their gadgets, and also ask to install newest software updates that the bike should have.

I think if the MCU (Motorcycle Control Unit) would have failed, which is, as I understand, the one connecting all of the ECUs together, it wouldnt really be running.
The connectors on all the control units were ok.

Its a big stupid mystery.
..and if its gonna be something simple..

What still bugs me is that this started to happen continuously right after I changed from Halogen H4 to Led H4 bulb and added servo elliminator. Which previously happened exactly 1 time randomly.

 

Ahhh maaan! I was hoping it was something simple. You did mention that the issues continue regardless if the new bulb is installed or not but have you tried disconnecting the Healtech dongle and going back the EXUP valve? I have read on this forum of a member that had gotten a "bad" dongle. It's rare but I think it happened once before. I don't see how a dongle can cause all of these errors but I am not an electrician. I think it is a good call to head to the dealer.

 

I did a big write-up but by accident pressed the back button and lost everything Fun, fun, fun..

In short:

Basically yes, I did do try with the actual Valve previous week, right now was testing with regular bulb and no dongle or servo, so would throw just the MTC error as I have de-cat now.
I read about that dongle error, but that was just limp mode with no errors.

Will meet up with the dealer next Thursday, hopefully all will be well after that.

I am still thinking about the Voltage regulator, if it can be the cause while still technically working and showing proper voltages.
The bike was a crashed bike, so I bought it from guys that did something, and I finished fixing it.
Me and my brother figured it had been rear-ended because of the suspension from 1190 ADV bike and that the voltage regulator had some damage to the connector (no plastic). Hot glue was used to make it waterproof and keep the wiring in place.
What I noticed now and didnt notice before - the hot glue has started to melt. I know R/Rs do get hot, but wondering if they can get too hot and make issues, while still supplying correct voltages.
If that would be the case, I would consider changing the R/R to a different one, of course preferred one would be original, but there are no connectors I can find to use there.
Alternative is to use SH847 R/R instead of FH022AA currently used, as the SH847 should work a lot cooler (also the stator) as the technology used is better. That R/R is from Suzuki DL Vstrom.
Here is a post from Triumph forum where everything is explained in case you are interested in such stuff: The Link
I had done this upgrade to my old Triumph Daytona 955, but that was due to an actually dead voltage regulator on that bike.

 

Testing, testing, testing...

I did some more testing before visiting the dealer, just to try out different things.
What I did now was - I added battery charger in boost mode just before starting and while the bike was runnng, thinking if there is a voltage drop for a split second, this could eliminate that.
And to be honest - at first I thought it did help! But it didnt. The first 3 tries it was good in a way that I just got ABS, MTC, Suspension and General Failure errors, and occasional SCU failure which removed itself, but later the other errors still popped up. So doesnt seem like a voltage problem.

QUESTION - Do you know if the thing with letting it run for 15 minutes without touching it really helps removing errors, or just a thing for older small bikes?

Another thing I had not mentioned previously as I thought it wasnt of concern, just a result of issues - tachometer is slow. I mean literally slow. Sometimes its ok, but then it goes into slow motion mode when revving. Rev it, the engine is idling already, but the rev needle is at certain position still or moving to/from that position. Weird.

Also a weird thing is that sometimes the errors clear themselves for a couple of seconds, then pops back on, not all of them though clears buy themselves. Most common is SCU failure (suspension control unit), usually pops in and out of error screen.

I just hope its not any of the control units.. because thats expensive if it is.

 

Testing, testing, testing...

I did some more testing before visiting the dealer, just to try out different things.
What I did now was - I added battery charger in boost mode just before starting and while the bike was runnng, thinking if there is a voltage drop for a split second, this could eliminate that.
And to be honest - at first I thought it did help! But it didnt. The first 3 tries it was good in a way that I just got ABS, MTC, Suspension and General Failure errors, and occasional SCU failure which removed itself, but later the other errors still popped up. So doesnt seem like a voltage problem.

Ill enter again - with so many errors happening, unrelated to each other such as ABS vs Suspension, it has to be a common issue such as a ground somewhere in the system, inclusive to the harness, gauge assembly, ECU, etc.
Did you try swapping gauges with your Super Adventure friend? If not, why not?
Also - Did you look at the service manual I shared to you? Trace the ground wires to the sensors that would trip these issues? Curious if you did.

QUESTION - Do you know if the thing with letting it run for 15 minutes without touching it really helps removing errors, or just a thing for older small bikes?

Did you try it? Seems the easiest way to answer your own question.

Another thing I had not mentioned previously as I thought it wasnt of concern, just a result of issues - tachometer is slow. I mean literally slow. Sometimes its ok, but then it goes into slow motion mode when revving. Rev it, the engine is idling already, but the rev needle is at certain position still or moving to/from that position. Weird.
Also a weird thing is that sometimes the errors clear themselves for a couple of seconds, then pops back on, not all of them though clears buy themselves. Most common is SCU failure (suspension control unit), usually pops in and out of error screen.

I just hope its not any of the control units.. because thats expensive if it is.

Well now that this information has come to light, it's your gauge assembly. I will put money on it. Please try to swap with your friend and report back before taking to the dealer.

 

Wow, that is troubling behavior and, yes, it does sound expensive. Fortunately the tablet that the dealer hooks up to the bikes works great, especially in matters like these. Fingers crossed for you.

 

Wow! You got that to work again??? Nice job. I looked closely at the first picture the pcb looked like it was too far gone. What did you use to clean the board? So, I ride in the rain. I wonder if I should apply silicone sealant to the perimeter of the instrument cluster to avoid water getting inside? I think wrapping the seam with electrical tape would suffice. What are your thought about preventing further damage from the rain now that you've taken the whole thing apart?

 

Yep, well, for the most part at least.
I still need to figure out why the backlights, turn signals, rev limit light, etc is not lighting up. They do work when I add diode test mode for multimeter, so its a connection somewhere. Or the lack of it.
I used DOT4 brake fluid with a toothbrush (to scrape off the rust - hard enough to do it but not to damage the PCB), then used brake cleaner to clean it all off. There is still some surface oxidation, but thats not an issue. I think the issue at the moment is these pinholes that connect both sides of the PCB, as its multi-layered. Might have some rust there, but that wont be easy to clean out, might need to do some workarounds.

Anyway, for the sealing part - yes, I do recommend going around the perimeter of the cluster. But not just the perimeter itself, as I think if there is enough water on the dash itself, it will get past the plastic anyway.
So there is the main top frame you see, which sits on top of the clear plastic. They are not one piece. And thus technically the water can get past the sealant that is around the perimeter itself. Wouldnt be a problem to myself now as everything would be sealed with car window glue (should be able to purchase at any car parts shop), but could be a potential spot where the water could get in. But really only if its been pouring hard on the dash. And without taking it kind of apart, you cant really apply the sealant there, only going on top of it so that it covers the line between the clear plastic and the frame plastic, cleaning the rest off.
Another problem is that I do not know how the stock cluster is sealed. The one I had was already tampered with before and badly sealed afterwards.

But still, if you can, use the extra protection, it will help in some way or another. Using black window glue, black silicone sealant or even black gasket sealant will do the trick.

See picture below, the clear plastic and the cover platic:

 

And regarding my turn signals and other lights not showing up on the dash - I think I found the culprit for that too.
I can try fixing it, but my idea is to seal it off for now till autumn when I will stop driving the bike, and then take the dash PCB in for repair to people who are good at it.

In the picture I have marked the 2 spots I think are responsible, as they are not making a connection from one side to the other, and the traces are connected to the LEDs.
Note that I have scratched off small bits on top just to make sure I was correct.

The rest of the PCB looks fine, going through with a multimeter didn't show any other anomalies.

 

Well, I'm impressed CreativeOne. If it were me I would still be at the side of the road scratching my head. You used brake fluid to clean? I have never heard that before. Can you explain why you used brake fluid. Second, is that a happy frog on the PCB?

 

Lets just say I love solving problems and issues, and this was a good opportunity to do so.
Yes, I used brake fluid to clean the stuff off, because I did not have the recommended baking soda at home (PCB people recommend using baking soda for cleaning the circuit boards), and I knew DOT4 is not conductive and I only needed something to contain the rust, as the main work was done by the toothbrush. In addition to that, I think I had heard that it has the properties to remove rust and has some anti-corrosive additives, either way - its not corrosive, otherwise the brake calipers would seize pretty quickly and thats what I needed. Being oily it also didnt drip off straight away.
That's my reasoning. Though take note that I am no expert on the brake fluids.
But it did the job, took the bike for a test ride earlier today!

And yes, indeed there is a happy frog there

Very impressive diagnosis, and even more impressive work!

I applaud you, sir.

Thank you!


I will post another reply with the steps on dash assembly/disassembly, maybe it will help someone in the future, as not everything is straight forward with it, especially if the person has not done similar jobs.
We are here to help each other after all.

 

Very impressive diagnosis, and even more impressive work!

I applaud you, sir.

 

This is gonna go in assembly mode, but disassembly is simply reverse.

So the PCB can be easily be taken out and put in the frame, just be careful with the back pins that connects to the wiring connector.
I did not take off the side LCD screen, was not needed.

Here in the picture you can see 5 Torx bolts around the perimeter, T10 size. Twist until its tight.
You can also see the ribbon cable on top of the white plastic, removal of it is easy, just lift both sides of the connector it is put inside, then lift the ribbon cable itself. Assembly is reversed.

Next comes LCD backlight glass (4 diodes are shining in it to make it glow in dark)

Be careful putting it in (or getting out). I used a dart tip to pry it up. Pry it up from top right corner when facing it in a normal way.
Take note of the 2 plastic hooks, in the picture on the left side. Not a problem when assembling, but in disassembly you need to push on them and pull the glass out.

There is also a black stripe that come between the backlight glass and the LCD, I think to prevent too much light coming onto the LCD from the LEDs.

Put in the LCD screen - the connector is this soft material that connects the PCB with the screen. Might need a pin to get it in the slot it has.

Here you can see it slotted in if you look hard enough.

LCD in - There are 2 plastic hooks that should go over the LCD, you can see them at the bottom of the LCD here, they are very small, so be careful when hooking them back on, its not easy and can probably be broken if not careful enough.

Here you can have a better look at the 2 small plastic hooks, top-right-ish of LCD.

Then comes this metallic cover around the LCD that holds everything in place, push it in, nothing special here.

Then add the cover - on first removal its glued on there, not hard to remove, but just take note. Adding it back is just pushing it back on.

To be continued - Max 10 attachments per reply.

 

Continued assembly process

Then add the tacho needle. When disassembling - take note of where the needle stops, as you will have to make sure its as close to that position during assembly if you want more or less accurate RPM readings. Removal of needle is done by pulling it off, not gonna come off easy, but its doable. You can use something as leverage to pull it off.
Reassembly is just pushing it back on.

Next come this decorative side cover - assembly is just pushing it back on, but disassembly - you have to use something to push the plastic hooks in and pull it up at the same time. You can see one of the hooks on the bottom-ish right, middle of the plastic. Nothing special, just dont brake it, appears to be brittle.

This is the main parts all put together.
Remember to clean the LCDs before putting the top cover on!

These covers - For me the disassembly was easy, removed all the sealant I could find along the edges by peeling it off, but remember that my dash was previously tampered with, original might not have it that easy. I just lifted it by leveraging a metal piece along the sides of top cover. Slowly, but it came off. Just be careful when doing all this, I dont expect you to find spare parts for the dash anywhere, only the whole dash, which will not be cheap.
For assembly I personally used black car/automotive window glue. Put the clear plastic on top of the dash so that it fits everywhere nicely, then applied the window glue along the edge, making sure no empty spot is left behind. There was enough glue left over that I just had to put the top cover on and thats its. Though extra glue can be put along the edges when the top is in place. Up to you to decide if necessary.
I suggest testing if everything is working as you want before putting on the glue, just hook up the PCB or dash without the top covers, make sure it shows what you want it to show, then add glue. Otherwise it's just extra unneeded work in case it's not working as intended.

 

A small update:

It happened again, but this time it seem that he circuit board is dead.
There was a small hole in bottom right corner where the window glue had not sealed it properly, seems like thats where the water got in.
There is no response from the board at all. Yesterday while driving I saw it turn on for a split second, but now, when again disassembled and attached straight to the bike, shows 0 signs of life.
Wrote to some board fixing people if they can fix water damage.
If not, a new (or new used) speedo it is.


EDIT: The guys said its not worth trying to fix water damage. I can get one from Adventure 1190 with 108k km (67k miles), but I have 13k km. Thinking of replacing the microchips inside from old one to the new one, so the mileage would stay the same.

 

A small update: It happened again, but this time it seem that he circuit board is dead. There was a small hole in bottom right corner where the window glue had not sealed it properly, seems like thats where the water got in. There is no response from the board at all. Yesterday while driving I saw it turn on for a split second, but now, when again disassembled and attached straight to the bike, shows 0 signs of life. Wrote to some board fixing people if they can fix water damage. If not, a new (or new used) speedo it is. EDIT: The guys said its not worth trying to fix water damage. I can get one from Adventure 1190 with 108k km (67k miles), but I have 13k km. Thinking of replacing the microchips inside from old one to the new one, so the mileage would stay the same.

Bonjour j’ai un problème avec le kilométrage de mon compteur comment je peux le modifier ? Quel est la micro puce dont vous parlez ? Merci

 

A month ago I had the same problem as yours. I ordered a new board and it arrived relatively quickly. I connected it to the motorcycle and my ABS, MTC and speedometer do not work. They told me that it had to be programmed, so I took the engine to the ktm service. Unfortunately, they didn't manage to program it because the old board must be functional in order to read the parameters from it... I don't know what to do because the old board is dead like yours. Let me know how you solved the problem

 

A month ago I had the same problem as yours. I ordered a new board and it arrived relatively quickly. I connected it to the motorcycle and my ABS, MTC and speedometer do not work. They told me that it had to be programmed, so I took the engine to the ktm service. Unfortunately, they didn't manage to program it because the old board must be functional in order to read the parameters from it... I don't know what to do because the old board is dead like yours. Let me know how you solved the problem

Heyo,

Sad to hear you got the same issue
Did you get a new board or a speedometer? I guess the Speedo?

I still have things to do, as I had bought a new speedometer from an Adventure 1190.
The speedo has ABS, MTC isssues, but MTC is not a real issue, as I do have full power.
The idea for me is to re-solder the existing microchips from my dead board to the newly bought one (the new speedo has 109k km on it, I have 13.5k and the chips themselves were not in water) - as the thing should be exactly the same - all these speedometers have the same part numbers.

In your case - when you have a New Speedometer - the dealer should be able to do everything I think. I dont suppose they just copy what is on old one and paste into the other one. I would believe they just set it for the type of bike so the settings are correct (in my case Adventure 1190 has different settings and views within the speedometer itself than Super Duke GT), then adjust the mileage. My dealer told me they can only adjust the mileage forwards, not backwards.
The guy I bought the speedometer also bought a new speedo, took it to the dealer and they did all the things needed. His old speedo was destroyed in a crash.
It's actually a pretty stupid argument that they need the old speedo to be working. Generally people dont buy new speedometers if the old ones are working.
If by parameters you mean mileage so that they dont think you are lowering your bikes mileage and thats why they need to see existing mileage on old speedo - let them adjust it by looking at the latest technical inspection data (MOT data).

Is that the only dealer available to you?
You can try messaging/calling other dealers and ask around about the process. Even trying different countries.

I wouldnt suggest re-soldering the microchips as I will do, as you have a new speedo.

 

yes new speedometer not only board. unfortunately the only one authorized service whit diagnostic in my place, tomorrow I will call a few more people to see if anyone can help me. the idea of replacing the chip is good, but the panel won't open for me because I'm afraid that the water will come in again and I'll have the same problem.

 

the only good thing is 0km 😂😂😂

 

Well, the bike will be running well even with the errors, that I can guarantee as I have the exact same ones right now
But yeah, keep me/us posted about how it is going for you. I really do believe its just the lack of knowledge from the service side. If you have a buddy or someone else with such a bike, you can ask them to help you out by giving their speedometer if they really need some data from an existing speedo (besides the mileage). Though in that case do mention that the speedo is not your original, but a friends.
I will be updating the post with how it went for me with the chip transplant from my end probably sometime in autumn when I will stop riding. Will enjoy the bike while I can until then.

 

Thought of doing an update:

So I had bought another used dash from an Adventure bike, while there were some error codes, the bike was running perfectly fine with it.
My idea was to just re-solder the microchips and that would be it - I would have my settings and my old mileage.

BUT NO - I just got around disassembling the ADV dash/speedometer, and came to a realization, that they look the same, technically have the same part number (60314069000), BUT THEY ARE NOT THE SAME.
It might be due to one board being 2013 (ADV), and mine being 2015, but also the options within the screen (where the RPM is shown) is not the same. I would say mainly the location of photosensitive diode (daylight running lights on or off), and for the cruise control - there are two LEDs instead of ADV's one. Alongside some minor differences in some resistors for the LEDs. Other than that - the same.

See picture with an example:

Top one is ADV board.
I added the razor blade just to show what I used to remove the clear plastic protecting the dash - use heat gun to make the plastic soft, being careful not to over-heat it, and slide the thin razor blade between the clear plastic and the housing, then, when the plastic has cooled of, use a knife or a flat screwdriver to pry it open after razor-blading it. - Found that way to be the easiest. My old dash was glued in a different way, so I thought of updating this info to whoever might find it useful.

Right now the plan would be to get a completely new dash, go to the dealer and just add the extra miles it need to be like I would have driven now.
My brother is going there to add and Akrapovic map to his Duke 890, and will ask around what is really needed for the dash change. As I would not want to be in a position like @Stivimne , where they needed the old dash to be alive.
I will update the thread as I move forward with this.
Stivimne could also do an update on what he came to find out


EDIT: After my brother went to have a chat with the dealer, they told him that a new speedometer/dash is no problem - they will add the mileage as need (they can only add miles, can not decrease), and regarding the extra programming - also no problem, the old board that is working is nice to have, then they can just copy the whole thing, but if it is dead, they just add the features you had manually.

EDIT2: After ordering a new speedometer/dash, the parts supply company asked for VIN and mileage I should have on the dash. I wrote what I knew and what I had, as when I bought the bike it had no dash and all I had was info from seller, that the bike had like 7-10k km (the seller was not the original owner, just a re-seller so to say). The parts supply company checks the data and they come back with info, that the bike had 26k km in the end of 2020 already. And they must enter the new mileage for the dash to be ordered. And it can not be lower than what they have in the database.
So no I went from around 13'000km (like 8k mile) bike to a 27k km bike!

 

Thought of doing an update:

Hi mate, do you still have the damaged Speedo and wish to sell the LCD units?

I am looking for LCDs for my 1190 ADV 2013 speedo (only LCDs not the complete speedo).

Regards