KTM Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, my Clutch all of the sudden behaves like a brake lever. Very stiff, won’t depress fully and also it is not disengaging the clutch fully. I tried bleeding, no luck. What can cause this? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Don't worry about it, take it to the dealer, have them figure it out, it's still under warranty.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Full Throttle
Joined
·
6,520 Posts
Hi, my Clutch all of the sudden behaves like a brake lever. Very stiff, won’t depress fully and also it is not disengaging the clutch fully. I tried bleeding, no luck. What can cause this? Thanks
thats actually a worrying diagnosis, not very common report and possibly a part or parts jammed and damaged in any of the 3 main clutch areas..
We could run a raffle on the cause of that one .
 

·
Full Throttle
Joined
·
6,520 Posts
. I tried bleeding, no luck.
ok well i gleamed a llittle bit of hope for good master cylinder , but that leaves the problem closer to the clutch.... Honestly cant think how the push rod21 >bearing5 > pressure cap4 gets funky.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Good move..... something's come loose somewhere and it'll be covered by warranty if it's not just a torque job.

I once had a screw loose in my crutch........ :ROFLMAO:....... no really, I did, and the 3 day old FZR1000 slowly lost gears until it was stuck in 3rd....... fixed by dealer, no parts needed, just cover off, screw back in place and torqued up tight..........

Let us know what the KTM tech finds (y)
 

·
Registered
18 SDR
Joined
·
1,661 Posts
Definitely take it it as it seems there is some interference- definitely I would take it to the dealer. I’ll assume no one has worked on the clutch or removed/replaced the clutch cover?

I’m not saying this is your issue but will share that I had a similar experience after my dealer replaced my clutch cover (it was scratched at delivery - the promised to replace it) at my first service.

I noticed materially more effort required to hold the clutch down during the last 1/4 of lever travel- wasn’t that noticeable when I left the dealer but writhin 30 km I called them back ans told them something was wrong.

iIt turned out when the replaced the cover, the dampener and bolt from the old units were installed - that bolt wasn’t tightened all the way in so it interfered with the clutch mechanism - I could see the clutch cover slightly flexing when the lever was fully depressed.


Keep us posted as to the root cause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok fellas. The diagnosis is in. But let me tell you more. So the clutch lever issue (soft through the first half of travel then suddenly super hard) happened about 2 miles from home, and I was able to limp back to my garage. 4 days later I decided that I could ride to the dealer using quick shifter without using clutch. Not the best call in retrospect. Well, after idling for a minute by the garage, the bike showed low oil pressure Warning. I shut it off and brought it to the dealer on the trailer. I got lucky both times!

they discovered that some nut that holds the entire clutch pack assembly got loose and my clutch plates were trying to slide off the shaft. This also exposed additional internal leak path for oil and that caused it to lose oil pressure. No other damage reported. They will be replacing the entire clutch pack and re-torquing that nut to spec.

my bike has 5600 miles and I purchased it in April 2020.

cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Good move..... something's come loose somewhere and it'll be covered by warranty if it's not just a torque job.

I once had a screw loose in my crutch........ :ROFLMAO:....... no really, I did, and the 3 day old FZR1000 slowly lost gears until it was stuck in 3rd....... fixed by dealer, no parts needed, just cover off, screw back in place and torqued up tight..........

Let us know what the KTM tech finds (y)
‘you called it brother 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
‘you called it brother 👍
:LOL:....... I got one right...... o_O ......... I promise not to let it go to my head........... but seriously, the clutch nut coming loose after only 5k miles........ that's scary........ I suppose the robot torque tooling had gone out of spec just as your bike was going down the line :eek:......... just as it happened on my Jap bike back in 1994 :unsure:.

Glad you caught it before anything nasty happened.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thorny

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
i guess it was no 12.
you are correct. It was #12. I just visited the dealer to have a look. It had loctite , but there is no other means of securing it. The washer is flat and has no splines. clutch was slipping and started to overheat. Plates turned blue, hence their recommendation to replace the plates, pending KTM’s approval. There is also a recall to replace gear shift shaft, they are going to knock that out while it is all apart on that side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi, my Clutch all of the sudden behaves like a brake lever. Very stiff, won’t depress fully and also it is not disengaging the clutch fully. I tried bleeding, no luck. What can cause this? Thanks
Hello have you tried checking your cable make sure its not frayed also make sure your clutches aren't sticking. When is the last you changed the oil ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Hello have you tried checking your cable make sure its not frayed also make sure your clutches aren't sticking. When is the last you changed the oil ?
G'day Spanky42,

I know you're trying to help, however the 2020 1290SDR has a hydraulic crutch, no cables to adjust or lube ;).

It is the latest and greatest electro technical marvel model released in 2020 and Thorny's is still under new bike warranty. His 20 SDR has only 5,600mls since April (post #8).

The main clutch nut ( #12 in the diagram) came loose on his bike ...... maybe the assembly robot/tooling was out of specs and failed to torque it up properly .... whatever the reason, Thorny's SDR has been diagnosed and is being sorted under warranty (see post #13).

I'm sure the guys appreciate what would otherwise have been good advice (y)

Have a Happy NY y'all :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks DaveAu! Electro technical marvel is still in the shop waiting on parts.

oil is very fresh. I change it about every 3K miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
5/6k miles seems to be the recurring feature with this problem. Mine did the same about 5 months ago ( 2015 bike) I fettled mine, more by luck than skill, no special tools or anything. I found a post from a couple of years back where the lad did the same as I did but damaged an oil pump gear in the process.
As for putting 6k miles on a bike since April....lucky lucky B'stards. Have the US police been targeting bikers moving between Covid restricted areas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
5/6k miles seems to be the recurring feature with this problem. Mine did the same about 5 months ago ( 2015 bike) I fettled mine, more by luck than skill, no special tools or anything. I found a post from a couple of years back where the lad did the same as I did but damaged an oil pump gear in the process.
As for putting 6k miles on a bike since April....lucky lucky B'stards. Have the US police been targeting bikers moving between Covid restricted areas?
No issue here with putting miles on bikes. You can go up, down, left and right. 👍

good job on getting it fixed DIY style. This is not an easy job. I got free oil change out of mine. Also had steering head bearing adjusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
No issue here with putting miles on bikes. You can go up, down, left and right. 👍

good job on getting it fixed DIY style. This is not an easy job. I got free oil change out of mine. Also had steering head bearing adjusted.
Why the head bearing adjustment? Was it a bad day at the factory when they built yours?
I bought mine second hand(3rd owner) as original.
Then whilst browsing through the lovely folder that came with it I found a receipt from a local remap company ( that don't have the best reputation)
I had an idea about the SAS delete. Watched the rottweiler video a few times then realised the canister had been removed from mine with no dongle attached. Bought a set of O2 sensor blanks and resistors from eBay, I messaged the tuning fella and he replied about an hour after I'd installed them advising against it!! Had a few short runs and it doesn't seem to have caused any problems so I'm sticking with it for the time being.
Fingers crossed we are all vaccinated against Covid by the time the ****ty weather lifts and we can bang some miles in without getting £200 fines from the Cops😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Why the head bearing adjustment? Was it a bad day at the factory when they built yours?
I bought mine second hand(3rd owner) as original.
Then whilst browsing through the lovely folder that came with it I found a receipt from a local remap company ( that don't have the best reputation)
I had an idea about the SAS delete. Watched the rottweiler video a few times then realised the canister had been removed from mine with no dongle attached. Bought a set of O2 sensor blanks and resistors from eBay, I messaged the tuning fella and he replied about an hour after I'd installed them advising against it!! Had a few short runs and it doesn't seem to have caused any problems so I'm sticking with it for the time being.
Fingers crossed we are all vaccinated against Covid by the time the ****ty weather lifts and we can bang some miles in without getting £200 fines from the Cops😁

Cheers Anderspa,

The charcoal canister has nothing to do with the SAS - BTW it's ok to delete the charcoal canister without a dongle so long as the oem purge valve is left plugged into the harness and the vacuum hoses it uses to suck fumes into the throttle bodies are plugged off so they no longer suck air into the engine - rottweiler video covers this too.

The SAS = supplimentary air system, injects air into the exhaust pipes to fudge the emissions readings and to help the catalizer heat up quickly - most owners remove the SAS plumbing after they have removed the catalizer (de-cat mid pipe) because once the cat is gone, there is nothing for the SAS to do. I still have my SAS and cat but have long ago tossed the charcoal canister out (and the dongle I foolishly bought through innocence/ignorance fried itself on day 1, hence how I know it was never needed as my KTM tech simply plugged the original purge valve back in and said it does the same job as the dongle anyway).

Steering head bearings are just bearings and some settle faster than others with use, or as you mention, the factory torque tooling might not have set them properly, or needed a reset....... some 1290's have had clunky front ends which miraculously go quiet once the stem bearings are tensioned down again........ it's true, and your 3rd hand 1290 has probably had them checked at some stage before you acquired it ;).

Oh the O2 dongles - if your's has been remapped for an exhaust pipe or whatever, then it should not need the O2 sensor's removed and dongles installed - this kit richens up the under 5k rpm mapping, so the new dyno tuned map would now be running out of tune......... the O2 dongles were just a cheap fix for a stock ECU map which runs on the lean side of correct to meet emissions regs.

Best for 2021... hope you guys get that virus under control soon...... we've just had a short sharp lockdown here in Brisbane to make sure a mutant case didn't get a start, and that worked a treat, so now I think I'll go and suit up and take my 17GT out for a gallop (y)
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top