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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys,

So Ive been making little headway on the project since I was waiting on parts and tooling (still waiting on some tooling) and Ive been out of town working. So when I do find time I do some tinkering.

Stated earlier in a post long ago, I have had the tank and panel / plastics off for some time already. Airbox off and connections unclipped and whatnot. Finally got a little propane heater (delivery also took forever) to heat the garage (no power or heat :( ) to stay warm. Its been nice out recently hovering around 0 deg C, touch higher. Gonna be cold here on out til April, probably -20 or colder routinely so heat is a must.

So...finally got around to pulling the swingarm off and taking some items off the engine block itself so I can get the engine out (kickstand, sprockets, guards, etc, etc). Rigged up some ceiling mounts to hold the bike upright and Ill be ready to drop the engine out this weekend. Having a buddy come help since my make shift rigging and jack will require more than my 2 hands. Last think I want it the engine falling off my jack and cracking something else.

So once engine is out, Ill have to wait on certain pullers from KTM before I can dig real deep into it. If I get impatient ill go make my own pullers, but I was trying to eliminate this by ordering the right ones from the get go. Theyre a special make order from KTM as they make them for you once you place an order. Dunno ETA :( Hopefully not much longer as Ill have some time off with Christmas here and was planning on working the bike over.

Heres a couple pics since we're all thirsty for them! Ill update once engine is out. I didn't see a need to post any pics up until this point as its all straight forward.

(bigger pics)

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Manual says to do it that way. (and if you look, theres the swingarm axle going through the block. So how do you figure??) Maybe I didn't have to remove it COMPLETELY from the shock mount, but......

I figure theres only 2 axles holding it in. It really only took 3 minutes to pull the swingarm off.... insanely easy.

Given my lifting strategy, it helps make the one end lighter too, which can only help. And when youre Jimmy rigging everything the more space the better
 

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In the intrest of time. I usually just pull all the bolts. Slide the engine out and reinstall the swingarm bolt. That way the chassis stays rolling.
 

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Manual says to do it that way. (and if you look, theres the swing-arm axle going through the block. So how do you figure??) Maybe I didn't have to remove it COMPLETELY from the shock mount, but......

I figure theres only 2 axles holding it in. It really only took 3 minutes to pull the swing-arm off.... insanely easy.

Given my lifting strategy, it helps make the one end lighter too, which can only help. And when you're Jimmy rigging everything the more space the better
Not sure on your mileage, but while its off you may want to dig into the swing arm and linkage bearings as well. At a minimum consider re-greasing with a high end synthetic waterproof grease. For dirt bike guys thats an annual job and its my experience that the factories use as little grease as possible! That also put the steering head into play as well for grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah Ill lube all bearings and bushings, Ive already got the grease. They all seemed well enough for now, still have manufacturers lube on them all.

Engine came out easily enough. Sitting in my basement now. And as soon as KTM gets me the ignition cover puller and clutch holder I can start tearing down.

In the meantime im gonna check my valves to see the tolerance as it sits now, maybe I don't even need to shim it upon rebuild.

Ill post more pics for you fellas soon, I didn't take any during removal as of yet.
 

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Brad, any heartburn with this thread being stickied?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Nah, wouldn't upset my heart one bit.

More upset that the bike decided to leak.

UPDATE****
Last of KTM tooling in (that I need for now, hopefully don't need more)

BAD**
GF had emergency appadectomy, and I gotta go away for work for a few days, meaning I cant get to the bike for probably another 5-6 days :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
UPDATE: Dec 30 /2014

So I got off my arse for an hour or so tonight and ventured into the basement (where engine is currently residing). Didn't do much, pulled a cover or two off, water pump and housing, and the starter and engine mounts. Then the girlfriend bellowed for my to go do some BBQ'ing.

But for those interested heres some pics!

Engine out


Ignition side:
-Ignition cover puller...not needed. Dunno why I bothered with it, but oh well. Figured Id do it right with KTM tooling and figured I wouldn't need some but opted for it anyways.



Was going to remove clutch side covers (all loosened, have to remove impeller nut though)) but I didn't have my soft blow hammer to do some gentle tapping, and I didn't wanna pry with anything that leaves marks...THEN it was dinner time so Ill yank those off soon. You can see the starter mount and valley in this pic. Comes off super easy, it drives an starter/idler gear you can see from the igniotion side as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Additional pics of clutch side with the shift star. I THINK ill swap it out, but its gonna cost me damn near 500....so Im debating. If I keep the bike awhile ts probably worth. Seemingly, I can swap shift stars whenever with little trouble but I MAY AS WELL do it now I guess. Im just being a cheap bastard, buti n the long run does it really matter? Cant take it with ya!



Clutch cover off, clutch still installed for time being. You can see just to the right of the clutch itself a little flap, Im thinking this is the built in SLIPPER ktm uses? Based on backpressure I think. I didn't really look into it to see where it funnels around or comes from. Ill take a better look at a later time. Anyone know for sure??
EDIT: none of the above, simply redirects oil flow downwards to the clutch cover. Slipper is programmed to rear butterfly on TB to reduce backpressure


Shift drum and linkage. Ive heard of guys making the oil squirter jet LARGER on this for more lube and smoother shifts. Dunno how worthwhile that would be, thinking the shift star is probably enough of an improvement. But really, for 10 bucks (or whatever KTM charges which im sure is OVERPRICED for this little thing) worth a try?? I dunno...leave well enough alone perhaps.



again, different angle. Now, the clutch cover is the ONLY thing stopping the shift linkage from sliding towards the right, and the selector coming off the drum. I can pull the shaft towards me and it wont shift anymore. Didn't see any noticeable wear on my cover, so.....



Cam timing marks for control timing on rear cylinder. Front cams have same markings on them. im betting this is important! haha



Overall pic of valvetrain on front cylinder, just for ****s and giggles.

I MIGHT make it into the basement tonight to do a little, but it would just be taking measurements. I guess I could post some pics of the process if anyones interested.
 

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Hey Brad something else to consider doing while you're in there. Double check the oil pump gear and make sure you have the solid one instead of the drilled one. I hear the drilled ones have a tendency to break. Would set you back to square one if that happened. Thread below is from the UK forums. I found it while research the factory pro shift star. http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/rc8-super...hift-star-upgraded-oil-pump-wheel-fitted.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ive read that one as well. Im not sure how concerned I am about that though. But for the 100 bucks or whatever KTM here will charge, its probably worth considering.

Though, keep in mind, were not allowed to travel faster than 50 km/hr anywhere here, so the likely hood it blows up at a snails pace is pretty minimal.

That's not to say I follow ANY rules of the road however ;)
 

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Ive read that one as well. Im not sure how concerned I am about that though. But for the 100 bucks or whatever KTM here will charge, its probably worth considering.

Though, keep in mind, were not allowed to travel faster than 50 km/hr anywhere here, so the likely hood it blows up at a snails pace is pretty minimal.

That's not to say I follow ANY rules of the road however ;)
lol ride the speed limit? Who does that? I found the stock part for about $8 I cant imagine it would be that expensive to replace.
 

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I just found the part number 60038001124 OIL PUMP GEAR 24-T 03 superceeded by
60038001024. I found it for $65 at munnracing.com/# Under "KTM Parts microfiche" select year and model. Select "Switch to engine components" then "Lubricating system" item # 24.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
THANKS!

Ill inquire with my local KTM dealer as well as some of the tooling was WAY cheaper that I would have ever thought especially from KTM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Ran into issues checking front valve clearance, seems to be some slack in my front chain. It was tight before, suddenly a little loose. Thinking its all from the front tensioner as everything is still linked up together. And much like Ive read from others, the TDC markings on the front cylinder don't line up perfectly (like the rears do) with the deck of the head. Slightly off.

QUESTION:

Shouldn't tensioner exert force onto the chain at all times? Then aided hydraulically afterwards with oil pressure? Im going to take tensioner out and figure it out, and reinstall and check front valves again. I figure the initial moment start up occurs there no oil pressure so it must have a spring??

Rear Valves were in spec. I consider it in spec though under the passenger side exhaust cam lobe I was able to fit a 12 thou feeler strip in (9.8-11.8 thou clearance as per KTM manual). The driver side exhaust lobe I fit 11 perfectly in, and couldn't get a 12 thou in.

Figure its worth shimming guys????

Hoping once chain slack rectified front valves check out ok as given the design of the head I don't need to remove valvetrain, just the cams and I can leave the head otherwise assembled for teardown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Good pricing, KTM charges 5-6 bucks for a bolt, but only want 10 bucks for a gear?? (FOR REFERENCE, MY LOCAL DEALER WANTS $77 FOR THIS PART. WITH SHIPPING FROM CYCLE HUT WHICH IS $46 + $7 FOR GEAR, COMES IN AT A TOTAL OF $52 !!!!!! )

Weird.

Good find!
 
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