KTM Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Bike of the Month Challenge!
21 - 37 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
in your opinion, do you think i paid to mush for this bike?
If the bike is as clean as you say, with that mileage, then 9000Euro (about £7700) is the going rate for a 2009/10 R model in excellent condition & low mileage. So although and it seems that yours maybe an R model, just done in Akra LE trim, you've paid about the right money. I would say if it was a genuine (ID#) Akra LE, in the same condition and mileage, you'd have paid a lot more than 9000Euro.

Either way, you've still got a cracking bike, just maybe not exactly what you thought it was.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
indeed it is, the test drive i toke this day was awesome, was pulling him to the shift light and before i know it i was driving 270km/h and still rising, taking corners like it was nothing like someone else mentioned here when you put him in a curve he wants to stay there not trying to come up like a lot of other bikes or my previous, not the same tough was an aprillia dorsoduro 750 but the aprillia you have to push him down the rc8r falls down, great bike if not the greatest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
so probable there is not even a real akrapovic exhaust mounted on it, first thing tomorrow i'm going to check this and take some pics to post here on the forum, then you can see in what for state the bike is.

good night my friend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Well if you're coming from a Dorso, then yes the difference will be night and day lol! The RC8 is a truly great bike, it just has certain quirks that you learn to live with. Or most don't that buy one and tend get rid of it quite quickly. But the 8 community is quite small compared to most manufacturers forums, so the knowledge reference you'll find here is very good.

I think posting a few pics up will be a good idea ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Yes mate that is indeed the standard exhaust for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
just took it for a drive again, and still got a little hold up around 5k rpm, are the injectors not clean enough? do i need to do a reset disconnect the battery connect again and let it run for 15min? some other stuf that good be wrong or need to adjust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Answered in other thread lol! But yes try the 15 min reset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
ok, the drop ad 5k rpm seems to be fixt, but now if have another issue, at low speed i'm able to go to 6th gear, but at high speed it seems i'm not able to go from 5th to 6. someone els ever had this problem ore is my explanation just not possible?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
When you say high speed, do you mean at high rpm (9K +) as well?
There's a known issue with the shift star mechanism. It will occasionally kick into a false neutral.

If this isn't what's happening, I would simply suggest that you make it a firm shift with the foot. Are you doing a clutch-less upshift? Try snapping the throttle off, change gear and roll on hard again. I do 95% of my upshifting this way on my track bike without issue.

We will all assume that you've changed the oil as well... old oil may have gummed up the clutch plates, but that's very very unlikely - it would also effect your shifts in every gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
No i did not changed the clutch oil, will do that, and yes its above 9k when i'm at the end of 5 going to 6, he wont go to six pressing very hard upward on the shifter but wont go in, then i tested driving slow and just move on up to six and no problem, then again driving against the shift light shifting perfectly til 5 but wont go to six.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Clutch oil is the same as engine oil....
Maybe try changing the hydraulic clutch fluid. It's a long shot but I really doubt it will help.

You must be really moving to need to be at 9k rpm to go from 5-6th gear...

Other than that, maybe the shift star, but I really doubt that will help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
i think its around 240-250km/h at the end of 5th, at that speed i have more eyes on the road then on the panel, i know its not the max because i have driving 270 km/h and still wasn't against the red, but now i don't get it in six anymore, a little frustrated, stupid question maybe if you say that the clutch oil is the same as the motor oil what i thought it we be in the first place then why is there a reservoir on the clutch lever? i didn't emptied when i changed the motor oil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
embarrassing, i know for what the reservoir is, its the hydraulic line that changes the cable to activate the clutch, don't think the problem is there to find, i read some things about moving down the gear lever a spline, and/or not complete pull in the clutch lever before shifting in gear, maybe trying to shift without clutch but that is not my favorite don't know why but never did this with any bike i owned, maybe afraid to get the same scratching and cracking result as in a car, if the shift star is not i direct solution don't think i'm gonna pay that money for the pro one. very strange tough every shift up or down goes perfectly only upward to six at 10k rpm. never even experienced a false neutral
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Well, I would try the clutchless upshift a few times to see if that works....
If it doesn't, I don't know what to tell you... maybe somebody else will have an idea.. best of luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
The motor oil does both, engine and clutch just to keep that clarity. They do not have a separate supply. I would look at setting the shift linkage back to it's stock position, if it isn't already and if it is, I would try giving the "change up" action a bit more "throw" as there's a good possibility that your shift linkage is out of whack. This is one those little foibles the RC8 has, they do like the shift linkage to be perfectly aligned and equally spaced between both tie-rod ends or they can be a b**ch to get in one or several gears, throw false neutrals etc.
The pro shift thingy is a good idea, but I can't recall for certain if it was just the very early 8's that benefited by changing that. An aftermarket clutch slave cylinder (Oberon for instance) is a massive improvement over the stock one and a shift spindle holder (Sato) is another good part to fit.

But imo I'd take a look at your shift linkage set-up first.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Top