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Discussion Starter #1
hopped on the bike this morning, started fine, rode about 5 miles, shut it off for about 10 minutes, went to start it and NOTHING!
No lights, no ready to race, no nothing! Tried putting the key against the transponder, nothing! Tried removing and repalcing the battery, nothing!
Haven't tried the "backup key" yet because I'm stuck......any ideas? anyone had this happen to them yet??
 

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Uh oh. Sometimes the battery in the fob doesn't make contact. Besides that, check the main fuse. Also, wiring in previous models on the right had instrument cluster would affect the starting for some. Beyond that, I can't say anything about the 2020 models. They're too new to know their idiosyncrasies.
 

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While riding today, my bike said the key fob was out of range for a few minutes but returned to normal. I bet that is the issue with your bike too

Have you tried just using the key? The ignition switch is located under the plastic piece that surrounds the fuel cap. You can just pull it off with your fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Mine didn't do anything...it didn't say out of range, it didn't light up ANYTHING! I put it next to the transponder and nothing, No lights or anything on the dash, I tried the "backup key" net to the transponder and nothing. Finally I took the seat off and started poking around checking connections at the the battery, all looked good,and the fuses, I removed em all and checked them and nothing was burned out, so I reinstalled them, all of a sudden for no obvious reason I could figure out, it finally recognized the key and I was able to start it up and get home with no issues. This whole episode lasted for and hour and a half. Since then I've cycled it on and off about 20 times with no issues.
The only thing I think may have been a problem is that I've been using the "kill switch" to shut the bike off, and then using the "ready to race" button to power down. From now on I'm just going to use the "RTR" button to power up and shut off the bike. No more kill switch, The only thing I can think is maybe the kill switch malfunctioned when I shut it down and when I tried to start it, the switch did some kind of malfunction and kept all the electronics off for some reason until I removed and replaced the fuses. I've got no idea what happened, I've had it for two months now with no major issues, hope this was the one and only! 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also wasn't aware that the key can actually be used to start it, I thought it was a totally "electronic" key-less system and the key was only for the seat release? Am I wrong?? Is there a key ignition override under the fuel tank cover?
 

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You are wrong! Pop off the "fuel tank cover" which is actually called the ignition lock cover. There is a place to insert and turn the key so the bike turns on. The spare key doesn't not have a fob in it.

I bet the battery in your fob is bad, or poorly connected.
I have taken it apart when I accidentally broke the wires for my wireless antenna and there is no place to put the key. Even the spare is shown in the manual sitting on the wireless antenna. If you pop of the lock cover it’s a circuit board where a key would go
 

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You are wrong! Pop off the "fuel tank cover" which is actually called the ignition lock cover. There is a place to insert and turn the key so the bike turns on. The spare key doesn't not have a fob in it.

I bet the battery in your fob is bad, or poorly connected.
I did that and I see a key"barrel" but it has a closed off top. Cant put a key in that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the input guys. I can confirm that the spare "tuners key", the one without the battery in it, will positively open the ready to race mode and allow the bike to start. I tried it yesterday, and yes they both work!
 

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You are wrong! Pop off the "fuel tank cover" which is actually called the ignition lock cover. There is a place to insert and turn the key so the bike turns on. The spare key doesn't not have a fob in it.

I bet the battery in your fob is bad, or poorly connected.
Just so the wrong information is not being spread there is no place on the Hands free systems to use
a key to turn so the bike will start. The Fob or Active key uses a high freq signal to communicate with
the Electronic ignition Lock it also has a passive RFID chip which when placed over the antenna will
communicate with the electronic ignition lock. The Passive key is the same type of key that has been
used for years it only has the RFID chip and must be placed over the antenna to communicate with
the electronic ignition lock but unlike the older keys at this time it can not be cloned.

The part number for the Hands free system for a 2020 1290 SDR is 61711166044 this is the same
system they have been using since 2017 on 1290 SDR if you check the parts section I just sold this
exact item.

See item 22 on the parts list for 2020 1290 SDR.
 

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Man seeing this in the 2020 model really pisses me off. I've had random start up issues to engine check lights and bike not starting all cause of the damn wireless key. They haven't fixed it still I'd be pissed.

edit -- my bike is a 2017 and have had this issue since week one. Also in my keyfob there seems to be a cushion added by the dealer looks like a proper piece for the battery to be pushed.
 

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Hey Sps, wanted to post so you know it’s not just you. After a ride lunch stop, my girl and I were getting back on the 2020 SDGT, and had the same issue. Nothing at all from the screen when pushing race on gray button.

I recalled reports of 2019 GT having warranty replacement of the race-on killswitch assembly, because it was wired too tight from factory...so tried playing with that, but no changes. After about 5 minutes was going to go under the seat and check power connections, but next press of race-on worked like everything was normal! Rode it home without any issue at all.

I took the race-on cluster off the bike to try and review damaged wires or moisture or any culprit, and all was fine, and the backs of the switches appeared well sealed from moisture. *getting the assembly back on the bars was a bit of a pain.

I also traced power and ground wires, and all was right and well connected. Fuses were all well seated.

You mentioned maybe it was killswitch related, but even with killswitch, you will at least get the flashing yellow during race-on press as it searches for key. I also read about someone saying if the steering lock gets stuck in locked position it can cause problems, but I haven’t been able to reproduce the dead black TFT during race-on press again.

I’ve ridden multiple times since that issue and haven’t had it again, but certainly disconcerting as there is no backup option. (At least on keyless Ducatis there is a way to start the bike via pin-code as backup)

Perhaps there are still switch assembly issues with 2020 they haven’t corrected yet, but I’ll need more reproducible problem to take it in for warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yep, sounds like we had exactly same problem...except mine took an hour and a half to "correct". It really didn't seem like I found any problem under the seat that I can positively trace it to, it was more of a random, abra cadabra and it started after about 30 tries with both keys.
Unfortunately it doesn't instill much confidence for taking any kind of distance trips.😕
 

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Did you ask your dealership? I assume you are still under warranty? They can plug in their diagnostics and maybe find the answer fast. It may be possible there is a dash fault on your SDR so they will have to check yours out to log the issue.

Best to read the owners handbook for any special instructions with the 20SDR.

(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes I contacted them, they said "you can bring it in and we'll check it,we're looking at about 2 1/2 weeks out".
 

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This is disconcerting as I've been considering a 2020 SDR. As for warranty coverage, KTM only warranties the engine, swingarm and frame per their website on the SDR. Has to be the crappiest warranty on any street bike.

Any way good to know it sort of magically started working again. I always prefer to find the real problem so I can find an actual solution to fixing it.
 

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Cheers @spsgold ,

Hang in there, mostly these strange new bike issues turn out to be a faulty fob battery or a loose battery lead. Too early to jump up and down on KTM - seen others get worked up and it was a fizzer of an issue.... mine is now 3.5yo and I don't hesitate to ride long distance lonely roads interstate - errr except our borders are still closed due covid 19. Others on here have 60 - 100,000km or more by now and are very happy.

But 2 and a half weeks for a warranty appointment is pretty poor dealer service:( - don't they have time set aside on a Saturday morning for good will work?.... they must be so busy selling lots of bikes? Is there another KTM shop not too far away? I'd keep riding it and call them to come and recover you if it faults again...... after I first checked the battery terminals with a torqx key.

Also @Day Trippin - too early to judge a bike with an unusual issue - these bikes don't have idiosyncrasies (not like Moto Guzzi's in the 70's) programmed in, in fact mine is the most Japanese of any Euro bike I've ridden - but they should be properly pre-delivered to avoid any embarrassment from potential assembly/human issues before sale ..... From what I've read, most issues come down to the local dealerships lack of knowledge or reluctance to show any enthusiasm......

I wouldn't say my SDGT was good unless it was - it is under pressure to be better than my pristine 15yo 130k km 05 Honda Blackbird...... and it is (y).

We have all read of a new owner (and that includes me as I was once a newbie) that has had some problem with a brand new bike...... the owners manual is well written and a good thing to read first up to learn how to fiddle with complex electro whizbangs - just sometimes the software gets corrupted by poor dealer installations or some other event..... often a simple reload cures many one off glitches.

I must be lucky to have a dealer mechanic that has good computer skills. However, maybe I've just not seen many issues yet with the 20SDR, or maybe there are only one or two on the road (?), but it's a bit early to start a 'fear' campaign when KTM has been expanding it's business towards dominating the market for those who want some excitement in their lives. They wouldn't spend millions and expect to survive by manufacturing crap. Jap bikes suffer from odd glitches that get resolved. They are high tech software generation bikes, but maybe they have more dealerships spread over the USA.

Keep an eye on the thread..... I'm almost certain it will end up being something very simple or an agency (eg dealership) fault. Very rare, but possible, it may be a dash fault.... (My BMW 1200RT mates had to have their ECU's replaced under warranty after being left stranded on a remote highway in Western Australia, hundreds of kms from civilization).... I hope spsgold gets an earlier booking and reports back with the solution :D.

;)
 

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My bad for the wrong info. I was convinced that cover housed a key ignition. I deleted my original post. Thanks for the clarification.
 
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