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The oil nozzle to the clutch does clog up. Shifting becomes harder even with the KTM Factory Pro shifter installed. Cleaning it out, putting just a little OEM oil into the area & using an air compressor to blow out the oil nozzle before re-install makes a huge difference. Having to this at least once a year now (2017 KTM GT- 20,000 miles). Wonder if there is something that should be added to the bikes oil to prevent these oil nozzles from cloging up?? Best,

Doc :unsure: :unsure:
 

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Full Throttle
2008 RC8 / 2007 690
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6,561 Posts
I found out from another guy what the top nozzle is I picked out in my pick, its some type of relief for crank pressure. So any extra pressure come out this on.. That's what I was told in txt, may have it wrong though.. Oww well that will teach me....
 

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Full Throttle
2008 RC8 / 2007 690
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cloging up??
Motul 7100 oil take a pic of motor before and after.. Many reports of 3000km and oil looks new etc etc.... Spill it on the engine cases and it doesn't wipe off like old type oils I used... Something nano in it, sticks to stuff, cleans aswell....
 

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Full Throttle
2008 RC8 / 2007 690
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6,561 Posts
Forgot, many old motors have scratchy looking exhaust cams being on the outside on the head, dry looking.. Swap to 7100 and even 3 weeks later, the exhaust cams look different, wet looking and the dry/hot look is gone... Sometime goes on and the red stuff is everywhere, even sitting on where the old brown/black stuff was dry caking...
 

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Full Throttle
2008 RC8 / 2007 690
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6,561 Posts

So I tried a few ways but first attempt with sticky masking tape wrapped reverse around the bottom of a large wood thread screw worked first goo. You just need to leave enough tape outside the thread so when you thumb or finger the screw into the already loose jet, it fills the surface area as much as possible, then presto...
 

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Full Throttle
2008 RC8 / 2007 690
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6,561 Posts
So more instruction I guess from seasoned racer... The diameter of the jet is set so right oil according to rev and oil pressure leaks out just enough to spin out into the clutch hub. Any more is to much, any less is not enough... So for racing application the hole is good, for adventure grumblings in chuggers, maybe you can modify but the motor will be throwing oil out the clutch...
 

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My understanding is the LC8 design doesn’t bathe the clutch in oil so this “nozzle” (as KTM calls it) sprays the clutch with oil. I’ve seen posts that the hole is 1/50th of an inch and can become clogged. Symptoms are the clutch not fully disengaging (or drag), hard to find neutral..clutch being ”grabby”...etc.

Looks like a simple procedure however I’m 100% confident very few dealers even do this as part of the specified checklist.
I decided to take mine out today to check it, on my 2018 1090 Adventure R
It was marked #30 and I believe this to be 0.3 mm, so just under .012 inch.
A very small hole indeed, I verified it was clear by sticking the plastic tube on my WD40 can into the back of it, and it sprayed out a nice jet, so all was good.
 

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I checked mine, there was no hole on the top side, it was marked with a 30. I ordered a new one and replaced it.
The Q tip trick works well.
 

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Neutral had been getting harder and harder to find, so, I tried to service my jet today. Got the access cover off, but could not get the jet out.

That's a step further than I managed, couldn't work out if the cap was hex or torx fitting. Bought a 1/4" universal knuckle but haven't got around to trying again. How did you remove it?
 

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IIRC it’s either a T30 or T35 for the cap. As I posted earlier it’s a tight area and removing the sprocket and rectifier covers helps with access.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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IIRC it’s either a T30 or T35 for the cap. As I posted earlier it’s a tight area and removing the sprocket and rectifier covers helps with access.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have ordered both parts, I wonder if the bike should be warm to help shift the cap? Hadn't considered removing the rectifier cover👍
 
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