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Discussion Starter #1
Over tightened the one screw on the oil filter cover on a 2017 KTM 690 Enduro R, and it snapped off! Tried a screw extractor, but made matters worse. I don't think I was able to get the drill in straight, and things have gone horribly wrong as I dug and dug into the broken screw. I ordered replacement M5 screws, and I want to purchase a Time Sert, but I can't tell what the M5 screw pitch should be. Looks like Time Sert's come in M5 0.80 pitch, does anyone know if that matches the screw?

My plan (please feel free to tell me I'm idiot and correct me):

1) Attempt to drill out remaining remnant of original screw.
2) Fill hole with JB Weld mixed with short length copper wire strands.
3) Drill and tap for Time Sert with red Loctite.

93020
 

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To be honest mate, i'd take it somewhere, with a decent pillar drill and a bit more expertise. Sorry if that sounds harsh, but you've reached the point now where anything you do badly, will make things a lot worse in the long run. Take it to an engineering shop, even if it means engine out.
 

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+1 with @weeksy on your chances of turning a mess into a steamy hot smelly mess. Move forward carefully here as you have shaved the inner bore of the cover register and your o ring bore is very close to the edge there. You will need to remove damaged screw without any further damage to bore. If you are uncertain of your ability to remove damaged screw, best to play safe and ask for help. You should measure cover o ring location and transfer dimension to cover to ensure o ring sealing surface and entry point is smooth. O ring will leak unless bore is smooth. Best to deburr and polish entry to bore to prevent damage or cutting of cover o ring during installation. If you drill a very small hole in damaged bolt and afterwards use progressively larger drill until you just touch edge of threaded hole it will reduce surface tension of damaged bolt and allow it to be removed with small screw extractor. Use patience and great care when drilling. Good luck
 

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Did that on my 990. Didn't overtighten either, it just suddenly went at no nm.

Luckily it was close enough to the surface and a slanted break. Was able to use a tiny flat blade and drift it out. Took about 30 mins.

As has been said, that looks as though you have kept digging a hole for yourself. That needs a bench drill.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all for the comments. I am looking into a local shop to handle this. I may try my JB Weld/Time Sert fix first. I need to figure out best way to restore that bore to allow the cover to fit back on. The surface of where the o-ring would seat on the bore is still smooth. I assume the o ring would have a smooth seal where it it presses against. Anyway, if I can get this fixed for a reasonable price I will go that route straight away. Cheers all!
 

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Oh no dude I feel your pain! Sooo ****ty.

2 weekends ago I did the same thing and felt my stomach drop the second that head broke off. Long story short the head KTM mechanic at my dealer said bring it down and he'd get it off but I took a bunch of heat to the area and with an act of god mine eventually broke loose.

Yours looks bad...really bad unfortunately. I would definitely take it to your dealer if they are confident on removal or a reputable machine shop near you. Please let us know how it works out but for now here are a couple motivational pictures and hope you can get yours out at minimal costs.

IMG-7548.JPG

IMG-7549.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh no dude I feel your pain! Sooo ****ty.

2 weekends ago I did the same thing and felt my stomach drop the second that head broke off. Long story short the head KTM mechanic at my dealer said bring it down and he'd get it off but I took a bunch of heat to the area and with an act of god mine eventually broke loose.

Yours looks bad...really bad unfortunately. I would definitely take it to your dealer if they are confident on removal or a reputable machine shop near you. Please let us know how it works out but for now here are a couple motivational pictures and hope you can get yours out at minimal costs.

View attachment 93082
View attachment 93083
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again for everyone's comments. A quick update, I went ahead and slowly drilled out the remaining screw remnants. I filled the hole with JB Weld and then re-drilled a hole with the intention of using a Time Sert. Unfortunately the JB Weld threads wouldn't hold the Time Sert. It seemed much too soft. I tried the weaker JB SteekStik on something else and seemed the threads were much stronger. Anyway, I am at the point now where I applied some JB Weld to the Time Sert and hoping that will hold (I drove the bottom of the Time Sert manually to open it up). Below are some photos along the process, I won't have time to come back to it until this weekend so it should have a proper cure by then. The temp here in MI is mid to upper 40's, not sure if 24 hours was enough for the cure when I filled the hole. I will provide another update again after I look at it this weekend.

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi All,

Quick update: the Time-Sert is holding with the JB Weld. The cover, without the o-ring goes on easily. With the o-ring there is a snug fit, I do need to apply a little pressure to fully close the lid. I used a nut-driver to hand tight. Drove around for an hour, no leaks thus far. Let's see how it goes over time after removing/installing after several oil changes. I will only hand tighten with a nut driver. No more torque wrench on these screws!

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Nice man good work gettin it buttoned back up!
 

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so it oxidizes together? pfiew. wich product should i use so they don't oxidize. i live near the ocean, saltwater. i definitely need anti oxidize grease or product. I have mine for 2 days now. pfwiew, it s something. I think bicycle grease 2000 motorex. I'm not shure
 

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I stripped the same hole on mine luckily the screw didn't break. Thinking oh using your JB Weld solution to salvage what thread is left. Anyways thank for sharing.
 

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Not to worry. Best to try again. A better method is to repair your case exactly as you did previously. Instead of using bolts to retain your filter cover get 2 short threaded studs and copper sealing washers and brass acorn nuts to retain cover. This way you can epoxy your thread repair insert and the studs into engine case permanently. Your oil filter cover can be easily removed without disturbing threads in casing and risking further damage. You may need to enlarge mounting holes in cover for easier alignment of cover during removal or installation but dont over enlarge them too much. The brass acorn nuts and copper sealing washers will prevent over torque of those tiny studs causing them to break. You will strip the threads of the brass nuts before the studs can break so now you have added safety from recurring case damage and a permanent solution to problem. Report back with your results as your experience can help other riders with this common problem.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Not to worry. Best to try again. A better method is to repair your case exactly as you did previously. Instead of using bolts to retain your filter cover get 2 short threaded studs and copper sealing washers and brass acorn nuts to retain cover. This way you can epoxy your thread repair insert and the studs into engine case permanently. Your oil filter cover can be easily removed without disturbing threads in casing and risking further damage. You may need to enlarge mounting holes in cover for easier alignment of cover during removal or installation but dont over enlarge them too much. The brass acorn nuts and copper sealing washers will prevent over torque of those tiny studs causing them to break. You will strip the threads of the brass nuts before the studs can break so now you have added safety from recurring case damage and a permanent solution to problem. Report back with your results as your experience can help other riders with this common problem.
Thanks for the comments and encouragement. It seems to me that there is some back pressure on that oil cap when tightening down (because of the o-ring). In which case that back pressure is what's pulling on the time sert. Or if I use a stud, then pulling on the stud and time sert. Although the stud goes deeper in and that additional length buried in epoxy might provide the strength needed to hold. Any reason I can't just use a stud on the right side and continue to use the M5 screw on the left side? What do you think about trying to fill the hole with Aluminum-Weld (https://aluminum-weld.com)?

Cheers!
 

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JB weld is awesome stuff for problems like this. I would suggest existing threads in bolt hole could end up suffering the same fate as your sick one. I would give it a shotgun panty dropping fix once and for all and be done with it. Why worry about possibility of drama every time you change filter? Best to give it the best fix possible and be done.
 

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That's a winning attitude. Good on you sir. Off to a good start.
 
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