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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I did my cam today. I found it quite easy, though I've torn down many motors in my time. Total time for the job, while taking pictures along the way, was less than 2 hours.
It always helps to have the right tools for the job as well.

I've decided to make a step by step "how-to" for those that are on the fence about attempting this procedure.

I bought my cam here: (I'm in the US)
http://www.ktm-parts.com/76236010044.html#.VErdH4dTE3V
If you sign up for the newsletter, you'll get an additional 10% off.
With free shipping the total comes to $208.43

The results in my opinion are quite impressive. Smooth power from 1000rpm all the way to red line. Putting around below 4k rpm is no problem now with no jerkiness, stalling or hesitation what so ever.

Thanks to 2cati as well for his write-up as well.
http://www.ktmforums.com/forums/duke/36170-duke-4-cam-install.html
Some good info here too.

The Duke 3 service manual may be of some help
http://duke690r.com/files/3206084en.pdf

So here it is. I will probably add to, and edit along the way.
Enjoy.

Let's start with a US model 2014 Duke 690 -



 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next step is to remove the rear seat, and then the front.
Two T45 torx bolts hod the front seat on.





Next, remove the negative battery cable.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Remove the left and right panels from the tank.
Four T30 Torx on each side



Next remove the left and right trim pieces from under the tank:
One T30 Torx on each piece

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Remove the ignition cover by pulling on it, straight up.




Remove the two T30 bolts holding the front of the tank.



And then the two T30s holding the rear of the tank

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Undo the quick disconnect fuel line under the tank on the left side.
A small amount of fuel will leak out






Undo the electrical connector on the bottom left of the tank



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pull off the 2 rubber lines from the bottom left of the tank.



When you lift off the tank, you will see one more electrical connector on the bottom left, that need to be unplugged. Then the tank can then be removed and set aside

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now, knowing there is not a lot of room to work I decided to make life easy and move a couple items that are in the way.
First, I removed the fuel line from the fuel injector.
One phillips head screw.





 

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Discussion Starter #8
I removed the ground cable that is laying on the valve cover and set it aside.
Just one T30 Torx bolting it to the frame.





Now we are making some space!

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cut the zip tie and remove the breather hose from the valve cover.



 

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Discussion Starter #10
I decided to remove the emissions cover before removing the valve cover.
There a three bolts holding it on. You can use a T30 or an 8mm socket to remove it. If you have an 8mm swivel socket like me, it is very easy to get to.



One on the left



And two on the right



Voila!



Don't lose the o-ring
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Next on the right side of the engine, unplug the ignition coils
One white plug, one black.



Then remove the two T30 bolts securing the ignition coil holder to the head, and remove the coils and holder. Pulling straight up, you can remove this as one unit, exposing the spark plugs.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Pick your favorite spark plug, and remove it.
It is a 14mm
This will make it easier to turn over the engine later by hand, as there will be no compression.



 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now we can remove the valve cover.
In order to gain more clearance, i removed the front left clamp from my crash bars.



Remove the 4 bolts securing the valve cover.
They are 10mm



Now with a little finesse, work the cover off and out.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
There she is! :)



Remove the inspection plug from the clutch cover.
14mm
**Tip of the day**
A 14mm allen could cost more that $10.00
A cheaper alternative ($1.00), would be to go to the hardware store and buy a bolt with a 14mm head on it, and 2 nuts that fit the bolt. Spin both nuts on to the bolt, and lock them together. Now insert the 14mm head of the bolt into the inspection plug. Use a wrench on one of the two nuts that you locked on to the bolt, to remove the plug. It's just plastic, and should not be very tight.




 

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Discussion Starter #15
Under the inspection plug there is a 13mm bolt. Using a 13mm socket, turn over the motor slowly counter clockwise.
As you turn over the motor, you are looking for top dead center. (TDC)
TDC is found when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke.
Turn over the motor counter clockwise and look at what is going on.
Intake valves open (intake side, or rear)
Then close
Exhaust valves open (exhaust side, or rear)
Then close
Right after the intake valves close, the piston will be traveling up towards TDC
There are 6 holes in the cam sprocket. The 3 holes that are spread far apart, are the ones that concern us.
Look at your new cam. In the middle hole (of the 3 spread far apart), the is a line.
You want to turn the motor until that line is straight up, right after the intake valves close.

Take a look at this position



Still with me??
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lets check our work, and lock the crank so it doesn't move until we are done.
Remove the 10mm bolt just in front of the clutch cover, on the engine case.



Shine a bright light in the hole. Now if you gently turn the engine back and forth and look in the hole you removed the 10mm bolt from, you should see a slot at TDC. Moving the engine in either direction away from TDC, the slot will no longer be visible.

Once you see the slot, and the middle hole (of the 3 spread far apart) is straight up, with all the valves closed, you've found TDC.

Lets lock the crank in position.
KTM makes an "engine blocking screw" You can find this for $15-$20
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/ktm/2008/450sxf/special-tools/locating-screw/77329010000

Or you can do what 2cati did for $8.00 and get an 8mm x1.25x80mm bolt

Or you can do what I did and just insert a screw driver for free.



It should go in a couple inches
With this in, you can no longer turn the crank. That's the idea.


.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
At this point you can check your valve clearances if you want. You should have clearance on all 4 valves.
Write down your results for each valve




 

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Discussion Starter #18
Remove the 19mm can chain tensioner cap.





Then with some needle nose pliers pull the tensioner out.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Stuff a shop rag in the engine just below the cam chain gear so you don't drop anything into the engine.



Remove the cam chain support plate.
One T30 Torx right in the middle hole of the cam gear.



 

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Discussion Starter #20
Start pulling the cam out and at the same time slide the chain off the back of the sprocket.

**There is no need to remove the valve train/rocker arms**



Now gently remove the cam by tuning and pulling it out at the same time.
Do not drop the cam chain into the motor.

 
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