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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Without splitting my cases Ive joined my engine sump to my clutch case / gbox.
This equalises the oil levels although the engine oil level is a bit higher than normal because the gbox level check is 40mm higher off the ground than the top of the engine oil check window which doesnt really bother me.
I removed the clutch cover and drilled a hole in the clutch case back wall just below the shift barrel. The casting is only about 2mm thick there.
The whole concept of separating engine and gbox oil is flawed anyway I mean they were trying to solve a non existent problem. Every other dirt bike engine has common oil and the oil filter takes care of any shrapnel (fines) from the gbox. They actually created a problem by having so many seals that are responsible for separating the oils.
One fault in any of those seals and you probably get stranded in the bush.
The solution I found actually still stops gbox shrapnel from getting into the engine. I had oil migrating from gbox to engine probable through the main crank seal.
Theres no way fines are getting through that seal. Theres no fines getting through the hole I drilled either because A its only 2mm dia and B theres always engine oil seeping through it into the gbox.
Check my vid and turn the volume up a bit cause Im mumbling in my helmet with the GoPro atteched.
 

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2 strokes all have gearbox and clutch area using same oil and there is a much bigger opening between them than your drilled holes. But the oil does not get in to the crank area (apart from when the r/h crank seal is worn), the oil mixed in to the fuel takes care of the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unrelated gbox problem producing metal bits in the screen, took right side crank case off without taking top end part.
A steel cylinder base gasket and no dowel pins allowed me to remove the 2 right side cyl head bolts. Right side crank main bearing is push fit so has to be knocked with hammer.
At 377 hours and 9500km the engine is still in perfect condition and powering extremely well so didnt want to take the engine apart but wanted to replace all bearings in transmission.
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I do not actually know what to say... either you are a genius or a back yard mechanic of the roughest kind! No offense intended!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Follow up on the migration mod.
My 08 450 now has 420 hours on the clock and is running great. I leave the oil level just above the window.
The engine still seems to use oil just as it did before the migration mod.
Should get 500 hours out of it.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
On a recent ride up Watagans, a mate told me of a guy who rebuilt one of these engines that had the same oil burning problem.
Turns out the cylinder was out of round from the factory ! oval !
The rings never really get a chance to seal or wear into the cylinder and always let a little oil past, never enough to cause smoke but always needs topping up after each ride.
So good excuse to rip the engine apart or sell it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well done. That second smaller hole should work well because of the shape of the engine sump behind it.
After about 260h I simply turned my rocker shafts 180 degrees so they had a fresh unworn surface facing down for the rockers.
 

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Hello friend, greetings from Italy, today I did this work on the 2008 ktm 530 I was a bit anxious, the hole on the left is 3mm and the right hole is 5mm the bike seems to be fine thank you very much you are great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Perfect Sam. And you didnt even have to take the clutch out.
Did you wash out the screens after you ran it for a while ?
Also tell us how quick the drill bit went through.
The aluminium is very thin in this area.
 

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it quickly passed the tip a few seconds, I cleaned with air compressor and inserting some oil and letting it drain again, you have instagram?


I also made a video but I don't know how to publish it
 
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