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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After four and a half years at 20,000ks my radiator has sprung a leak. I know it is a problem with the superduke but was hoping that mine was good; however, that was not to be. I don't know yet how much for a KTM replacement is but I guess it will not be cheap. I am also in two minds if I want another KTM radiator because I don't think the latest ones are any better. Is there anyone out there that has bought and tried one of the aluminium radiators for China, they are well priced but I am not sure about the fitment.
 

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G'day Katoom...... Some of the guys here have repaired their leaks rather than buy a new rad. I think Steve59 has had success recently.

I've also read a post from a multi forum member who was advising SDR owners to check their tank rubbers - some might have rotated 90deg+ which may allow the fuel tank to rest onto the radiator - I don't know about this as I have the SDGT which has 4 bolts holding the tank in place...... it appears the leaks come from the upper left or right sides of the SDR rads and may be from a separated seam joint.

Errrr.... new forum layout...... I'm a bit lost....... where's the emoji's........:confused:
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi DaveAu, I will check my tank but I think it's ok. Mine is leaking top left, I don't like the idea of repairing it because if it fatigue then it will just spring another leak somewhere else sooner or later and more than likely when I am 500ks from home. The radiators from China are fully welded aluminium and at $284 I am going to give one a try.
 

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Not good news that there are radiator problems. I hope you get it solved soon!
Is there no radiator that can be purchased locally. Always hate to see all the money going to China...
 
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Not good news that there are radiator problems. I hope you get it solved soon!
Is there no radiator that can be purchased locally. Always hate to see all the money going to China...
im trying to spend my money in europe even though the stuff is prolly from china.

I cant see how the cheaper chi model is any better than stock, it cant be.

My rc8 rad has sprung 2 leaks now,
Im gonna begin to practice removing fins and using the easy weld sticks for repairs.
 

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I just found this post. The cheapest replacement I found was $495. And I couldn't find a repair shop so I pulled the radiator myself, very easy I pulled the tank, removed the 2 hoses, 1 screw on the bottom and one on the side and it slid off. The leak was a split in the seam of the top rail behind the cooling fans, 1 screw and it was loose. I chose marine epoxy and used my pocket knife to widen the split enough to get the glue in there. You may think of a better way, but I put the cap on, covered the inlet with my hand and inhaled thru the other hole to pull the epoxy into the rail. By the 2nd try my leak was repaired and the fans hide (mostly) the repair. I spent half a day googling options but the actual repair time was around an hour. The screws for the plastic are flimsy and I ruined mine previously using my 11v impact! Now I use the hand tools ktm supply's.
 

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Add me as another member of the busted radiator club! I am well aware of the radiator issue and so I have been inspecting my radiator after each ride. My 2015 SDR just developed the leak as it reached 10K miles last weekend. I think I caught the leak in its earliest stage. Mine leaked from the upper left corner, around where the horn is located. I already ordered a new replacement radiator for $460 from ktmworld.com. I will see if I can get the old radiator fixed after I take it out. That way I will have a spare radiator in case the replacement leaks at some point. This sucks!

Steve, how did you refill and bleed the coolant after you reinstalled your radiator? I have the service manual and it says to raise the front wheel by about 20 inches for the bleeding. Is that really necessary? Any tips you can share will be greatly appreciated!

I just found this post. The cheapest replacement I found was $495. And I couldn't find a repair shop so I pulled the radiator myself, very easy I pulled the tank, removed the 2 hoses, 1 screw on the bottom and one on the side and it slid off. The leak was a split in the seam of the top rail behind the cooling fans, 1 screw and it was loose. I chose marine epoxy and used my pocket knife to widen the split enough to get the glue in there. You may think of a better way, but I put the cap on, covered the inlet with my hand and inhaled thru the other hole to pull the epoxy into the rail. By the 2nd try my leak was repaired and the fans hide (mostly) the repair. I spent half a day googling options but the actual repair time was around an hour. The screws for the plastic are flimsy and I ruined mine previously using my 11v impact! Now I use the hand tools ktm supply's.
 

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I just topped it off and after the first ride checked all levels. I still have to add a few oz's into the little plastic reservoir every 1000 miles or so.
 

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Radiator problems! So this is fatigue cracking? I assumed that it was from rocks hitting the radiator but it sounds like the cracks are near the mounts suggesting failures from vibration. Did I get that right?
 

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Yes indeed, the radiators seem to be cracking and leaking either near the left or right mount, which suggests a fatigue issue originating from a bad design. I will probably be riding only on smooth roads from now on to minimize vibration and prolong the radiator life!

Radiator problems! So this is fatigue cracking? I assumed that it was from rocks hitting the radiator but it sounds like the cracks are near the mounts suggesting failures from vibration. Did I get that right?
 

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I just read a post that advised Chinese rads were made of thicker aluminium than the oem rads (they were talking mx bikes, small straight style rads)....... and were about half the price. No comments about curved SDR/GT styles (if available?).

I used to work for a wholesaler that supplied car and truck rads to radiator shops and the boss once told me 'all radiators are made in China anyway'...... the business owner visited China every year to source new suppliers and check quality control, and they had very few warranty returns...... I put one of their rads into my own car while doing hose & thermostat preventative maintenance.

I was looking for 1290 SDGT rads out of curiosity, but haven't stumbled onto anything. I'm not having any issue with my radiator at 3yrs/27,085kms.
 

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I'm not having any issue with my radiator at 3yrs/27,085kms.
Mine first sprung a leak at 81,000km from top right.
First time wasn't repaired properly and was welded. After it leaked again it was repaired properly the second time and the entire tube was blocked off. I replaced all mounting grommets with new as some were damaged.
So far this repair has been good.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just read a post that advised Chinese rads were made of thicker aluminium than the oem rads (they were talking mx bikes, small straight style rads)....... and were about half the price. No comments about curved SDR/GT styles (if available?).

I used to work for a wholesaler that supplied car and truck rads to radiator shops and the boss once told me 'all radiators are made in China anyway'...... the business owner visited China every year to source new suppliers and check quality control, and they had very few warranty returns...... I put one of their rads into my own car while doing hose & thermostat preventative maintenance.

I was looking for 1290 SDGT rads out of curiosity, but haven't stumbled onto anything. I'm not having any issue with my radiator at 3yrs/27,085kms.
I have a Chinese radiator with about 2k on it. The finish is very poor and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone but dirt bike riders. In the meantime I will try and get my original re-cored or repaired.
 

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I replaced all mounting grommets with new as some were damaged.
I would consider resetting and making the re alignment and relieve the stressed areas as a prevention.
Ive got a dripping rad but at operating temp the leak closes. The damn rad is so tight in there, im almost sure thats how it got the leak.
 

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I just replaced my radiator with a new one last summer. Part number of the replacement radiator was: 61335010000

It seems like KTM might have recently re-designed the radiator, since the radiator now has a new part number: 61335010100

This sucks, I would have preferred to install the re-designed radiator. The one I installed will probably crack and leak at some point too.

My original radiator lasted only 10K miles, but I used to ride on bad bumpy roads around here. I now avoid those kind of roads like the plague to minimize vibration. We'll see how long the new radiator lasts.
 

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I would consider resetting and making the re alignment and relieve the stressed areas as a prevention.
Ive got a dripping rad but at operating temp the leak closes. The damn rad is so tight in there, im almost sure thats how it got the leak.
Pretty much done what I could there with everything straight and fitting well. I think likely any future stress will affect the same area, which is not applicable now as that section of the radiator has been disabled and no longer has coolant running through it. Time will tell I guess?

I just replaced my radiator with a new one last summer. Part number of the replacement radiator was: 61335010000

It seems like KTM might have recently re-designed the radiator, since the radiator now has a new part number: 61335010100

This sucks, I would have preferred to install the re-designed radiator.
Interesting! Best of luck with the new radiator and hope it works out for you.
By the way, how did you get on with the bleeding process and lifting the front of the bike 500mm in the air?
 

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Pretty much done what I could there with everything straight and fitting well. I think likely any future stress will affect the same area, which is not applicable now as that section of the radiator has been disabled and no longer has coolant running through it. Time will tell I guess?


Interesting! Best of luck with the new radiator and hope it works out for you.
By the way, how did you get on with the bleeding process and lifting the front of the bike 500mm in the air?
Thanks, I am hoping that this new radiator will last much longer than the original one.

I did not lift the front of the bike for the bleeding. It seemed like too much of a hassle and my research showed that it is not really necessary if you have time and patience. Before filling up the radiator, I loosened up the bleed screw on top of the radiator and removed the water pump drain bolt. I poured the coolant VERY slowly into the radiator to minimize trapped air. Once a steady stream of coolant started coming out of the water pump drain hole, I put the drain bolt back on and torqued it to spec. I then continued to fill up the radiator very slowly. I frequently squeezed the radiator hoses while filling up the radiator. I tightened up the radiator bleed screw once a steady stream of coolant started coming out of it. After the radiator was full, I filled up the coolant reservoir to its max level. I then started up the bike with the radiator cap off. The coolant level in the radiator dropped some once the motor got going. I then topped off the radiator and put the radiator cap back on. Topping off the radiator and putting the cap back on happened within the first minute or two of the motor running. I then let the motor come up to full operating temperature and waited until the radiator fans turned on. I then shut off the motor and let the bike completely cool down. I waited until the next day to remove the radiator cap and top off the coolant level in the radiator and also in the plastic reservoir. By following this procedure, I was able to get most of the air out. Any remaining air in the system should slowly work its way out over the next few hundred miles, so keep checking the coolant level in the reservoir and top it off as may be necessary. Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks, I am hoping that this new radiator will last much longer than the original one.

I did not lift the front of the bike for the bleeding. It seemed like too much of a hassle and my research showed that it is not really necessary if you have time and patience. Before filling up the radiator, I loosened up the bleed screw on top of the radiator and removed the water pump drain bolt. I poured the coolant VERY slowly into the radiator to minimize trapped air. Once a steady stream of coolant started coming out of the water pump drain hole, I put the drain bolt back on and torqued it to spec. I then continued to fill up the radiator very slowly. I frequently squeezed the radiator hoses while filling up the radiator. I tightened up the radiator bleed screw once a steady stream of coolant started coming out of it. After the radiator was full, I filled up the coolant reservoir to its max level. I then started up the bike with the radiator cap off. The coolant level in the radiator dropped some once the motor got going. I then topped off the radiator and put the radiator cap back on. Topping off the radiator and putting the cap back on happened within the first minute or two of the motor running. I then let the motor come up to full operating temperature and waited until the radiator fans turned on. I then shut off the motor and let the bike completely cool down. I waited until the next day to remove the radiator cap and top off the coolant level in the radiator and also in the plastic reservoir. By following this procedure, I was able to get most of the air out. Any remaining air in the system should slowly work its way out over the next few hundred miles, so keep checking the coolant level in the reservoir and top it off as may be necessary. Hope this helps!
I didn't even do that, I just filled everything up then ran the motor until the fans kicked in then let it cool overnight. Next morning the overflow bottle was empty, filled it back up and went for a ride. After it cooled again the overflow bottle was about half full, topped up again and that was it.
 
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