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since decatting and flashing my bike it doesn't get hot enough to turn the fans on! When I found my radiator was busted I was nearly 2 states away and I rode home dry with the oil temp never exceeding 208.
 

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My 2017 SDGT radiator lasted 10 months 10,000 miles. I had a small leak bottom left where the fins are soldered. At least it was warranty, that is one expensive radiator. With these leaks being in so many different areas it seems they are just poorly made. As much as I love this bike. I’m not sure I won’t switch camps with my next bike.
 

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After four and a half years at 20,000ks my radiator has sprung a leak. I know it is a problem with the superduke but was hoping that mine was good; however, that was not to be. I don't know yet how much for a KTM replacement is but I guess it will not be cheap. I am also in two minds if I want another KTM radiator because I don't think the latest ones are any better. Is there anyone out there that has bought and tried one of the aluminium radiators for China, they are well priced but I am not sure about the fitment.
Just had a leak as well 2015 1290 R.
It squirted fluid into the mudguard and onto the front wheel and caused a crash on a high speed corner.

KTM needs to deal with this

KTMfreakOZ
 

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Hi guys! I just wanted to add to this thread that I was hit with a radiator leak. This will be my second leak so, I will be installing this bike's third radiator. Luckily, I found this leak while I was at home. My first leak was in 2017, I was four states away from home in Rural Washington on a Holiday weekend. It's hard to find service on a holiday weekend. I stopped at a local auto store and put some powdered stop leak to get me home. Once I was home, I flushed my engine and replaced my radiator. Looks like I will be purchasing the new part numbered 'Water Cooler' 61335010100. If you are in the US, 'KTM parts pro dot com' (without the spaces is a good place to buy OEM KTM parts. They are pretty inexpensive, As of the day of this post the radiator is going for $366.
 

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Wanted to throw in with a bit of wisdom here. First if you keep replacing rads on your R without doing the mod to fix the problem well then you might have finished last in your 3rd grade class when you were 18.
GT's do not have the same mounts and hence do not have a similar problem - every rare once in a while a GT will spring a leak tho, It happens. You have an exposed rad very close to the ground and facing all sorts of oncoming debris at speed.
 
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I got around to the common Superduke R radiator problem. For clarification, watch this vid


In short, the fact that the tank can move up and down on its front supports, transmits force towards the radiator mountings through the side fairings. And this rips the veins apart and causes leaking. Or complete failure.

I was looking for a simple, effective and most importantly a home made fix to eliminating the free play. Mission : Secure the tank is a go.



This is the support I was talking about, and the mechanic points out in the vid. The C-section that encircles this mount is not a complete circle, and therefor only supports the tank up-to-down. That's where it needs some extra padding.

(Ignore the grey wire, that's a USB cable I pulled to a phone mount)







I was thinking, it just needs thick tape. Something flexible that can handle weight without compressing too much, and something sturdy that will stay on. The roll on the left is what you apply to window sills to keep wind out, and the right is for waterproofing.



So I played around with a few measurements and basically, it came down to a layer of the wind stuff. I put the tank back on and there was absolutely zero movement left. I will keep a close eye on it after the next few rides.



This isn't the prettiest solution, but from what I can tell, this does work. The next month or two, if it's still as sturdy as it is now, I'm going to replace it with black tape. It should be a near enough invisible fix. Hopefully, it saves the radiator from failing. A $10 fix to a common problem? Hell yeah!



If you want to see how much movement there is on yours, do the following. Pull the side fairings off and remove the two bolts at the crotch area of the tank. Grab the front of the tank near the ends and wiggle it up and down. Close that gap via A) the mount, or B) on the tank insert itself. Should be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I got around to the common Superduke R radiator problem. For clarification, watch this vid


In short, the fact that the tank can move up and down on its front supports, transmits force towards the radiator mountings through the side fairings. And this rips the veins apart and causes leaking. Or complete failure.

I was looking for a simple, effective and most importantly a home made fix to eliminating the free play. Mission : Secure the tank is a go.

View attachment 105116

This is the support I was talking about, and the mechanic points out in the vid. The C-section that encircles this mount is not a complete circle, and therefor only supports the tank up-to-down. That's where it needs some extra padding.

(Ignore the grey wire, that's a USB cable I pulled to a phone mount)

View attachment 105117

View attachment 105118

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[/URL][/URL]

I was thinking, it just needs thick tape. Something flexible that can handle weight without compressing too much, and something sturdy that will stay on. The roll on the left is what you apply to window sills to keep wind out, and the right is for waterproofing.

View attachment 105119

So I played around with a few measurements and basically, it came down to a layer of the wind stuff. I put the tank back on and there was absolutely zero movement left. I will keep a close eye on it after the next few rides.

View attachment 105120

This isn't the prettiest solution, but from what I can tell, this does work. The next month or two, if it's still as sturdy as it is now, I'm going to replace it with black tape. It should be a near enough invisible fix. Hopefully, it saves the radiator from failing. A $10 fix to a common problem? Hell yeah!



If you want to see how much movement there is on yours, do the following. Pull the side fairings off and remove the two bolts at the crotch area of the tank. Grab the front of the tank near the ends and wiggle it up and down. Close that gap via A) the mount, or B) on the tank insert itself. Should be easy.
What I did to solve this issue I elongated the holes in the tank shrouds where they bolt to the radiator. Then I found some of those rubber grommets that have the small steel tube in them that stop the nuts from crushing the grommets to tightly. I put the steel tube on the bolts that screw the tank shrouds to the radiator with big washers to allow the shrouds to move up and down with the tank movement without putting strain on the radiator.
10,000ks later and the new radiator looks good with no bending where the old one bent.
 
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