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Why go up two at the rear instead of down one at the front? Increasing the size of the rear sprocket shortens the wheel base and makes it even more wheelie happy. Unless that's the intention of course.
This topic has been extensivily covered by this and other forums. Here are some links:

1290 GT (sprocket question)
1290 GT sprocket change
Sprocket Change 2016 SDR
Gearing Ratio's for SDGT's - KTM Super Twins Forum

Bottom line:
-Long Track or Highway- consider leaving OEM
-Cannon Carving- Consider at least 16/ 40 sprockets; does not require a change in chains

Best,

Doc (y) (y)
 

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2020 SDGT
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Well that’s good to hear. The salesman tech told me to add oil as needed and check every ride because it’ll burn some. I thought that was strange. Will be keeping my eye on it anyhow.
My GT burns oil or consumes it as the factory's like to say. 8300miles and It burns around a liter every 3000miles US.
 

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The 2020 SDR isn't poorly mapped in my opinion. I've had some snatchy Yamahas Honda's and Kawis. It feels better than my 2016 SDR THAT'S FOR SURE.
I had a 2017 Fz09 for a year. It did feel punchier but what I was really experiencing was coming off a revy 3 cylinder to a vtwin that makes its power allot differently. The SDR is sneaky fast...
 

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Today I was coming off a stop and decided to try to catch the green light up ahead, I short shifted into 4th gear around 5k and the front tire came straight up! The way this bike reacts to rolling on the throttle quickly and snapping it really, really makes the difference.
 

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...The ‘14-‘19 exhaust all fit the same right? That’s what I gathered anyway. Hopefully!
Not exactly. Will the can and midpipe mount? Yes indeed. Will the solid-mount hanger be lined up with your A) Passenger Peg or B) Aftermarket Hanger? No, but do not ruffle. If this indeed is the case when you go to install you can get an exhaust hanger that fits the 2014-2016 and with a bit of tweaking make it fit. Depending on the hanger you may not even need to fiddle with it much at all.
Why go up two at the rear instead of down one at the front? Increasing the size of the rear sprocket shortens the wheel base and makes it even more wheelie happy. Unless that's the intention of course.
If you go smaller front, the chain guides will wear much faster because you have reduced the diameter of the sprocket so it is closer to the material surface. Just FYI
 

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I don't see much advantage in lowering the gearing, or on a lot of road bikes. For most of my bikes I don't need any more torque in the lower gears. For the bikes with traction control it is already killing the power and the analog ones I just have to twist my wrist toward close to control the wheelies as it is. Some of the few bikes I've ridden lately that did a really good of putting the power to the ground in the lower gears while not being a unicycle, and without a lot of TC intervention, were the V4 Ducatis (Panigale V4 and Streetfighter V4). Track usage is of course a different animal.

To paraphrase KTM, once the front wheel is above a 7 degree angle off the ground, your power is being wasted instead of moving the bike forward if you want maximum acceleration. That is were the latest traction control systems with 6 axis IMU are so amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I’ve been reading about intakes, but I’m still unclear so maybe someone can clarify.
I don’t want to loose mid range in exchange for top end. I’ve read conflicting reports about the Rottweiler/Motohooligan trading this off. And to be honest, I’d much rather get the DNA filter so I can keep the stock ram intakes anyway. So would I be wasting money on the DNA($90) if im going for more power? Should I just go with the Motohooligan? I really am concerned about filtering ability as well, I don’t want to go as high flow as possible for a measily 10hp if I’m sacrificing engine longevity.
 

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My GT burns oil or consumes it as the factory's like to say. 8300miles and It burns around a liter every 3000miles US.
Mine uses zero oil as far as I can tell. I remember reading a warning in the owner's manual with regards to oil consumption.
 

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My GT burns oil or consumes it as the factory's like to say. 8300miles and It burns around a liter every 3000miles US.
Using correct spec oil?
My GT has 5,000+ miles and I don't think it used very much if any oil from the 600 mile mark from when i changed it again at 5,000miles.
Castrol 10w50 full syn, ma2 yadayada......
 

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200ml every 1000km would piss me right off. And I think mine is using a little oil, will know for sure over the next 1000 km. If it is I'm getting rid of it.
 

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My GT burns oil or consumes it as the factory's like to say. 8300miles and It burns around a liter every 3000miles US.
I change my oil every 4000-4500 miles, and as yet have not needed to add any oil between changes. 2016 SDGT, 14,500 miles.

On another matter, I am unable to use all the power available in stock trim; I cannot fathom the rationale for changing gearing/exhaust/tuning in search of more power. Even in stock trim, going WOT for about 3 seconds will put you at risk for losing your license (or worse). I love this bike, but OEM stock is more than enough for me...and I probably don't use 50% of what's available on most days.

You folks be careful out there!
 

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I change my oil every 4000-4500 miles, and as yet have not needed to add any oil between changes. 2016 SDGT, 14,500 miles.

On another matter, I am unable to use all the power available in stock trim; I cannot fathom the rationale for changing gearing/exhaust/tuning in search of more power. Even in stock trim, going WOT for about 3 seconds will put you at risk for losing your license (or worse). I love this bike, but OEM stock is more than enough for me...and I probably don't use 50% of what's available on most days.

You folks be careful out there!
I just changed mine at 14K miles. It was changed (*Motorex power Synt) at the 9300-mile service. I went with MOTUL 7100 10W60 full ester synth. the Motorex is $18/qt and I got the Motul for $12. Warranty will be up in a couple days.
 

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I just changed mine at 14K miles. It was changed (*Motorex power Synt) at the 9300-mile service. I went with MOTUL 7100 10W60 full ester synth. the Motorex is $18/qt and I got the Motul for $12. Warranty will be up in a couple days.
On the verge of an oil thread here:eek:, I decided on Castrol every 5,000m that meets the KTM spec T903 MA2 SAE10w50 for ambient temps over 32F, $8.30 delivered per QT.
With this engines small oil orifices(clutch lube nozzle/chain tensioner) I don't think I'd use 10w60 unless I was living in temps over 100F. Thicker is not always better and no where in KTM manuals for the SDGT do they mention 10w60.
I sent a blackstone sample in from my oil with 4,600miles on it, I'll share when I get results.
 

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My GT burns oil or consumes it as the factory's like to say. 8300miles and It burns around a liter every 3000miles US.
G'day 4or2wheels,

Sadly there is a problem with your GT as burning oil is not a normal trait for these engines.

I suspect your engine has been run with a full strength full synthetic (or double esther racing) spec oil, and this has allowed the cylinder bores and piston rings to form a glass like surface which prevents the piston rings from scraping oil away from the combustion chamber, hence the engine burns oil.

One solution for this is to re-hone the cylinders, install new rings, and go back to using semi synthetic oil.

Never believe any sales guy who says oil consumption is 'normal', for any engine - it is not! They say things like that to avoid arguments/complaints/warranty claims/legal action - they just want to sell product and know nothing about bikes and will try to stall you out of warranty if you have a valid claim.

I have an 05 CBR1100XX Honda Super Blackbird as well as my 17GT, and at 130,000kms and 15yo the Honda has not burned any oil since new! I run it on semi synth Motul 5100 10w50 with oil changes at 6k kms (Honda spec 12k kms). The KTM is run on Motorex Top Speed 15W50 - same oil is recommended by my local KTM dealership service center, and it is the only oil they use for our climate here in Queensland Australia (5C winters, up to 40C summers).

Selecting the correct oil for your riding demands is tricky because there is so much conflicting advice. My experience over 45yrs of riding and servicing bikes is that full strength full synthetic/double esther racing oils are fine if you are a full-on throttle jock who rides like a MotoGP star (and live where there are no cops/traffic), but for the rest of us who deal with city traffic, speed camera's, radars etc, and only get to open up the taps when out in country areas, a less potent oil is better.......(with a change at half oil service interval).

Works for me ;).

(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Great knowledge here thanks. I’ve always run Motul e-tech in my machines, maybe I will stick to Motorex with this bike...
 

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On the verge of an oil thread here:eek:, I decided on Castrol every 5,000m that meets the KTM spec T903 MA2 SAE10w50 for ambient temps over 32F, $8.30 delivered per QT.
With this engines small oil orifices(clutch lube nozzle/chain tensioner) I don't think I'd use 10w60 unless I was living in temps over 100F. Thicker is not always better and no where in KTM manuals for the SDGT do they mention 10w60.
I sent a blackstone sample in from my oil with 4,600miles on it, I'll share when I get results.
This is what the dealer has poured in at the 600-mile and 9300-mile changes; 10W60 Motorex Power Synt.

10W50 and 10W60 are both 10-wt. oils-same "thickness" If you want a "thinner" oil, you'll have to use a 5W or one of the new 0W oils.
 

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G'day 4or2wheels,

Sadly there is a problem with your GT as burning oil is not a normal trait for these engines.

I suspect your engine has been run with a full strength full synthetic (or double esther racing) spec oil, and this has allowed the cylinder bores and piston rings to form a glass like surface which prevents the piston rings from scraping oil away from the combustion chamber, hence the engine burns oil.

One solution for this is to re-hone the cylinders, install new rings, and go back to using semi synthetic oil.

Never believe any sales guy who says oil consumption is 'normal', for any engine - it is not! They say things like that to avoid arguments/complaints/warranty claims/legal action - they just want to sell product and know nothing about bikes and will try to stall you out of warranty if you have a valid claim.

I have an 05 CBR1100XX Honda Super Blackbird as well as my 17GT, and at 130,000kms and 15yo the Honda has not burned any oil since new! I run it on semi synth Motul 5100 10w50 with oil changes at 6k kms (Honda spec 12k kms). The KTM is run on Motorex Top Speed 15W50 - same oil is recommended by my local KTM dealership service center, and it is the only oil they use for our climate here in Queensland Australia (5C winters, up to 40C summers).

Selecting the correct oil for your riding demands is tricky because there is so much conflicting advice. My experience over 45yrs of riding and servicing bikes is that full strength full synthetic/double esther racing oils are fine if you are a full-on throttle jock who rides like a MotoGP star (and live where there are no cops/traffic), but for the rest of us who deal with city traffic, speed camera's, radars etc, and only get to open up the taps when out in country areas, a less potent oil is better.......(with a change at half oil service interval).

Works for me ;).

(y)
I disagree with your assessment of synthetic motor oil.
Synthetic oil has nothing to do with oil consumption. Mercedes' and BMWs come new with synthetic in the sump. I'm sure there are other high end marques that do the same. Oil consumption on a low-mile motor is most often caused by improper break-in overheating the piston rings before they are bed in and running smoothly as they should. Why else would KTM limit break-in rpm?

And again (and again) the main difference between synthetics and petroleum oils is that synthetics hold viscosity longer, thus lasting longer due to the lack of volatiles that gas off with repeated heat cycles. Change petro oil twice as often as syn and you get the same results and protection.
 
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