So, would short bursts of high rpm be okay? Cause I know I’ve hit that limiter at least once doing a wheelie and maybe missed a shift a couple times. Really haven’t ridden it hard yet, takes a lot of self control I tell ya. Doing my best to break it in right as I really don’t want an engine that burns oil.I disagree with your assessment of synthetic motor oil.
Synthetic oil has nothing to do with oil consumption. Mercedes' and BMWs come new with synthetic in the sump. I'm sure there are other high end marques that do the same. Oil consumption on a low-mile motor is most often caused by improper break-in overheating the piston rings before they are bed in and running smoothly as they should. Why else would KTM limit break-in rpm?
And again (and again) the main difference between synthetics and petroleum oils is that synthetics hold viscosity longer, thus lasting longer due to the lack of volatiles that gas off with repeated heat cycles. Change petro oil twice as often as syn and you get the same results and protection.
Once the rev limit is off, those short bursts of rpm will help the rings get used to banging the lands and sliding over the crosshatch on the cylinder walls. A little patience letting these parts get used to each other will go a long way to preventing oil consumption and getting a long service life out of the engine. I know the urge is to pin it as soon as the rpm is no longer limited, but anything that's expected to last is not really broken in for quite a few miles, despite conventional wisdom saying modern motors don't require a break-in. These motors use the modern parameters of big bore/short stroke to get valve area over the piston and reduce piston speed at higher rpm. That also means a short time interval between TDC and BDC and a whole lotta shakin goin on so to speak. Almost everyone has noted how tight KTM motors feel and how they loosen up with mileage. Too much twisting of the loud handle puts undue stress on on a tight motor, so they have to be given time and a judicious throttle hand to smooth out and produce big power without oil consumption.So, would short bursts of high rpm be okay? Cause I know I’ve hit that limiter at least once doing a wheelie and maybe missed a shift a couple times. Really haven’t ridden it hard yet, takes a lot of self control I tell ya. Doing my best to break it in right as I really don’t want an engine that burns oil.
No, never have. I'm in SR though, if you're ever looking for someone to do a lap at Skaggs withYou know it! Cotati/RP. Have you done business with Mammoth before?
Well that’s a bit of relief to hear. I’ve never done the Skaggs loop, I’ll pm you one of these days when I get a free weekend here.No, never have. I'm in SR though, if you're ever looking for someone to do a lap at Skaggs with
On the topic of break in--I think I went over that 6K limit a few times inadvertently. I did plenty of WFO up to that RPM limit though, once warmed up properly of course. 0 oil consumption.
I wasn't looking to get into a thing about oil but I don't think there is a problem. All three of my Tounos burned oil and so does my SDGT. I just diligently top it off as needed. Not a big deal. I lost count but I've owned over 30 new jap bikes over the years ( gixxers , cbr's etc ) and none of them burned anything except gas and tires. There is no one size fits all about oil use, there are just too many variables.G'day 4or2wheels,
Sadly there is a problem with your GT as burning oil is not a normal trait for these engines.
If 10W60 is good enough to keep my warranty, it's good enough to use after the warranty's up. At 100C (212F, the boiling point of water) I'd rather have 60 between the wear parts than 50. So would KTM, apparently. If you want to run this thread even farther off the rails from it's O.P's question, we can argue tires.10w50 and 10w60 are not the same weight. The both flow through a viscometer at the same rate at 0°c but the 10w60 flows slower through the viscometer slower than the 10w50 at 100°c.
So you've arrived at the conclusion the engineers at KTM are not in synch with their warranty department? A new engine has a harder time pushing oil about than a well broken in example like mine. If those guys aren't scared of 10W60, why should i be?Lol, not looking for an argument.
Your bike, do with it what you will. Just stating what i read in the manuals. Yes, for viscosity sake between gears a more viscous juice is beneficial. But please remember that same stuff has to be pushed through small orifices that feed important components, fragile screens and paper elements that may be damaged that have not been engineered for 60 weight oil.