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Discussion Starter #62
I disagree with your assessment of synthetic motor oil.
Synthetic oil has nothing to do with oil consumption. Mercedes' and BMWs come new with synthetic in the sump. I'm sure there are other high end marques that do the same. Oil consumption on a low-mile motor is most often caused by improper break-in overheating the piston rings before they are bed in and running smoothly as they should. Why else would KTM limit break-in rpm?

And again (and again) the main difference between synthetics and petroleum oils is that synthetics hold viscosity longer, thus lasting longer due to the lack of volatiles that gas off with repeated heat cycles. Change petro oil twice as often as syn and you get the same results and protection.
So, would short bursts of high rpm be okay? Cause I know I’ve hit that limiter at least once doing a wheelie and maybe missed a shift a couple times. Really haven’t ridden it hard yet, takes a lot of self control I tell ya. Doing my best to break it in right as I really don’t want an engine that burns oil.
 

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So, would short bursts of high rpm be okay? Cause I know I’ve hit that limiter at least once doing a wheelie and maybe missed a shift a couple times. Really haven’t ridden it hard yet, takes a lot of self control I tell ya. Doing my best to break it in right as I really don’t want an engine that burns oil.
Once the rev limit is off, those short bursts of rpm will help the rings get used to banging the lands and sliding over the crosshatch on the cylinder walls. A little patience letting these parts get used to each other will go a long way to preventing oil consumption and getting a long service life out of the engine. I know the urge is to pin it as soon as the rpm is no longer limited, but anything that's expected to last is not really broken in for quite a few miles, despite conventional wisdom saying modern motors don't require a break-in. These motors use the modern parameters of big bore/short stroke to get valve area over the piston and reduce piston speed at higher rpm. That also means a short time interval between TDC and BDC and a whole lotta shakin goin on so to speak. Almost everyone has noted how tight KTM motors feel and how they loosen up with mileage. Too much twisting of the loud handle puts undue stress on on a tight motor, so they have to be given time and a judicious throttle hand to smooth out and produce big power without oil consumption.
 

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Just to confuse the issu, my first sdr was a 2015 demo that wasn’t proper broken in and my 2016 I did get new I used motoman’s recommended break in which does suggest winding them up and engine breaking to create a tight ring seal. I don’t start using full synthetic til after 1200 miles.
 

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10w50 and 10w60 are not the same weight. The both flow through a viscometer at the same rate at 0°c but the 10w60 flows slower through the viscometer slower than the 10w50 at 100°c.
 

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You know it! Cotati/RP. Have you done business with Mammoth before?
No, never have. I'm in SR though, if you're ever looking for someone to do a lap at Skaggs with :cool:

On the topic of break in--I think I went over that 6K limit a few times inadvertently. I did plenty of WFO up to that RPM limit though, once warmed up properly of course. 0 oil consumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
No, never have. I'm in SR though, if you're ever looking for someone to do a lap at Skaggs with :cool:

On the topic of break in--I think I went over that 6K limit a few times inadvertently. I did plenty of WFO up to that RPM limit though, once warmed up properly of course. 0 oil consumption.
Well that’s a bit of relief to hear. I’ve never done the Skaggs loop, I’ll pm you one of these days when I get a free weekend here.
 

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G'day 4or2wheels,

Sadly there is a problem with your GT as burning oil is not a normal trait for these engines.
I wasn't looking to get into a thing about oil but I don't think there is a problem. All three of my Tounos burned oil and so does my SDGT. I just diligently top it off as needed. Not a big deal. I lost count but I've owned over 30 new jap bikes over the years ( gixxers , cbr's etc ) and none of them burned anything except gas and tires. There is no one size fits all about oil use, there are just too many variables.
 

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Are you sure it's burning it? All KTM V-twins are known for oil evaporation, which is why KTM are partnered with Motorex which contains additives to prevent evaporation. I believe Motul also contains anti-evaporants but some brands don't and using those can result in higher oil consumption.

I say this because there was an article about motorcycle oils in one of the UK bike mags a while back and the evaporation thing came from a petro-chemist working within the industry.
 

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My SDR is definitely burning oil at 2000km. Ran it in moderately hard. Strangely, it didn't use oil during run in phase, but started to after first service. This may have something to do with the 10W60 oil the dealer insists we have to use in Australia. I might change to 10W50 and see if this makes any difference. Truth is, oil consumption on a modern motor has little to do with 'break-in' and more to do with differences in manufacturing process. This was talked about all the time on the S1000RR forum - some used oil, most didn't. One lad sold his limited edition HP after only a few thousand km because it used 500mil every 1000km. His replacement, a standard S1000RR, didn't use any oil. My thrashed GSXR 1000 doesn't use oil. My S1000RR didn't use oil, neither did my S1000R. My Speed Triple R used about 200 mil every 1000km. And now my SDR is starting to drink.
 

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None of my 1290's have used any oil, well less than 400mlis over 7000kms. my 790 used a little but i was doing track days on it. All of my aprilia's used oil, Vtwins about 200mls per 1000kms, V4 drank it like a fish. Ive always run the bikes in, quite hard in the first 100kms, drop the oil then tic along until first 1000km service, then skys the limit, well rev limiter actually. Ive used 10W50 and 10W60 on my KTM's.
 

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I've kept a close eye on the oil thing since I picked up mine from brand new. Accidentally I think I've done the break-in period correctly... mostly relaxed street riding with the occasional speed bursts. It has NEVER drank a drop of oil. About a month ago I did the second oil change after the 600 mile service at 10k miles. I know it never drank a drop because I get intimate with it more often than I did the girlfriend. I'm sure that has nothing to do with being single. But anyway, I do mostly relaxed street riding but sometimes, my right hand runs off on it's own.

Castrol 10W50.
 
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10w50 and 10w60 are not the same weight. The both flow through a viscometer at the same rate at 0°c but the 10w60 flows slower through the viscometer slower than the 10w50 at 100°c.
If 10W60 is good enough to keep my warranty, it's good enough to use after the warranty's up. At 100C (212F, the boiling point of water) I'd rather have 60 between the wear parts than 50. So would KTM, apparently. If you want to run this thread even farther off the rails from it's O.P's question, we can argue tires.
 

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Lol, not looking for an argument.
Your bike, do with it what you will. Just stating what i read in the manuals. Yes, for viscosity sake between gears a more viscous juice is beneficial. But please remember that same stuff has to be pushed through small orifices that feed important components, fragile screens and paper elements that may be damaged that have not been engineered for 60 weight oil.
 

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Lol, not looking for an argument.
Your bike, do with it what you will. Just stating what i read in the manuals. Yes, for viscosity sake between gears a more viscous juice is beneficial. But please remember that same stuff has to be pushed through small orifices that feed important components, fragile screens and paper elements that may be damaged that have not been engineered for 60 weight oil.
So you've arrived at the conclusion the engineers at KTM are not in synch with their warranty department? A new engine has a harder time pushing oil about than a well broken in example like mine. If those guys aren't scared of 10W60, why should i be?
 

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KTM recommend to switch from 10W50 to 10W60 on all their big singles, 450cc 690cc etc, apparently the bottom end lasts longer with the heavier weight oil. And guess what, my 1290 is 2 big singles. Ill stick with the bike shop oil till 7000kms then ill put in 10W60 Motul. Cant go wrong with either. I ran my GT on Motul (Red) 10W60, and it never drank a drop, and at 7000kms on the oil, when i sold the GT the oil looked new, still nice and red.
 

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OK,OK two different views on oil......Big surprise.....I need help with a good looking rack and top case so that I can tour far next year after I get my covid vaccine.
 
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