always batteries . even if "okay". 3 years old its also average old i would say.

99% of all electrical fails on forums is batteries

 

A few weeks ago I went down to the hazardous waste drop off center. Five old YTK-14 batteries in a box, various brand names all Yuasa under the marketing stickers that over 10 years went in and out of the Caponord. Over six or so years, last battery no issue (Penn).

One problem is the plate to anode / cathode connection in the battery can be weak and break/fracture. This is just cheap design and I suspect this is the cause of most cheap / Yuasa batteries to fail.

My 1290 is a year old and still on the original. It has sat for three months at a time and fires right up. However I expect, especially as I do some off-road, the bounce and vibration will kill the battery in due course.

I use Penn Deka / Big Cranks for replacements now. Solid construction. Probably not available in the UK, but maybe. Yeas costs an extra $30.00. But that pays for itself after the first battery fail.

 

G'day Edys,

Have you checked the keyless fob (if your SAS has one)....... they sometimes give trouble when the little button battery goes flat or the contacts in the fob don't grip firmly. Try waving it close to the keyless sensor antenna (should e just in front of the fuel tank cap).

Also, when you checked your battery, did you load test it by taking it off the charger and waiting for 12 hrs, then reading the volts as the motor cranks over - it needs to be above 9.5v before the engine fires, then it will be 14v at idle if it is a healthy battery.

If your battery won't even crank the bike, then that's a big clue as the V2 needs a strong battery to start. All new batteries will show 13v across the terminals off the bike....... an old/sick battery might show 12v disconnected from the bike, but it's not ok..... and continued charging and usage of a 3yo battery may affect other components like the regulator/rectifier and alternator coils.

I get 2 years from my batteries and change them out as soon as my in dash voltmeter tells me they are under 9.5v cranking.

 

The motorcycle started without using the start button when connecting and disconnecting the battery, when it starts it cannot be turned off, after a few moments as soon as I disconnect the battery, it does not want to turn on. Waiting for a new engine kill switch, repair booked for the next month, no appointments earlier. I also ordered a new battery. I checked the wiring behind the lamp and under the seat and did not notice anything that would catch my attention, today I have no time, tomorrow I start removing the tank and further looking for the problem and disconnect the kill switch, I tried without removing the tank but it is impossible.

 

is possible temporarily bypass race on button? to check if it's the button's fault?

 

Fixed problem was race on switch, also replaced battery.

 

That's it,the race button? WTF.