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Dirt Wizard
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Black plastic one is your idle, screwing that clockwise lifts the slide in the carby and increases the idle.
The silver one underneath is your idle mixture.
I would start by screwing it in (clockwise)all the way till it stops then turn it out 2-1/2 turns.
To set the engine idle (black plastic one) properly is to set it to a tacho/rev counter. I think most rfs is about 1400rpm when warm.
Once you get a steady 1400rpm warm idle, you can then fine tune your mixture, which is a matter of screwing the mixture screw in until you notice a change in rev and backing it off a half turn from that point.
Usually there set anywhere from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 turns out.
As for that bolt. There should be no washer under the nut and there should be a hex cut out in the subframe where the nut will slide into. The nut or bolt should barely protrude out of the subframe. I will post a picture of mine tonight when I get home.
You could have a damaged subframe and it has been bodged up.
Do you have genuine info on how to set the carb?
 

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My idle honestly feels good. I know my black screw is 2.25 turns out roughly and the silver one is somewhere beyond 2, but it actually works. It takes about two to three minutes of riding with the choke on, but after that it's totally fine or at least feels that way. Sometimes the clutch is sticky and I have to keep pumping it to get the bike to stop sticking on it. I hope the idle is sorta fine. It for some reason works. My dad has a 05 450exc and his choke period takes about 30 seconds then hes good to go, but mine seems to take a bit longer. Is there any downside to leaving it where it's at if it works? I can't say it feels optimal because I don't have something to compare it to, but this feels pretty close to it. The idle is great and there's no lag when I give it gas. Again I don't have something at its peak to compare it to, but it feels fine. If it will severely cut down on my engine life I can look into trying the formal process of setting the idle again. The source I used was the KTM manual for my bike which said to start with the silver screw at 1.25 then go up until the idle came back down and find it somewhere in the middle and adjust the black screw accordingly.

My sub-frame seems to have half of the end cut off as if there was a place that it bolted to previously and they tapped a new hole later on. It is on both sides which makes me thing that someone before me crashed it and broke the sub-frame there and just bolted higher up instead of getting a new one. I don't know for sure if that's the story, but it's my first thoughts.

When I installed the kickstand, the bolt that came with it didn't fit for some reason and I had to get the one that is currently in it. That could be in parallel to the sub-frame being broken and bolting higher up without tapping and just putting a bolt on the other side instead of tapping.
 

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Dirt Wizard
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Maybe they have bodged the subframe then. You will need to try and do something to stop the chain from hitting the bolt. maybe try to get a hold of a low head, button head barrel nut, or grind the tangs off a tee-nut, try to get it as flush as possible.

With the carb as long as your not running lean you shouldn't do any damage to the engine.
With the clutch if you have to pump it up it means you still have air in the line.
Did you say you had trouble bleeding it?
You shouldn't have to remove anything. I just use a 50ml syringe full of magura blood or 5w fork oil, put it on the nipple, crack it and force it back up through the line and out the master, I have never done one that doesn't flow through and overflow the master.
 

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I'll try grinding the bolt down first and if that doesn't work I'll look into the button head barrel nut.

The bike seems to be fine with the carb other than a longer than usual choke warm up, but that's not an issue at all.

The clutch likes to stick to the gears when the bike is cold when the clutch is all the way pushed in. When I pump the clutch while warming it up it solves the problem. I've read about it on two strokes how they have a dragging clutch in the first five minutes and when they warm up the bike leaning it on the clutch side and pump the clutch to get oil moving between the plates(I'm assuming that's what that does) it works fine after that.

I had the worst time bleeding the clutch. I got generic mineral oil from CVS, a syringe, a pipe, a new slave cylinder, and some C-clip remover pliers. I started with trying to bleed the clutch by loosening the bolt on the slave cylinder then pumping mineral oil through the system up. I had huge resistance, it would start pumping out of the tube where I mounted it on the slave cylinder where I was pumping. I tried it with the clutch lever pulled in and out and I go the same result. The reserve cap was off the whole time. I read that if I was having resistance it was because the master cylinder needed to be replaced or cleaned and I didn't have one on standby so I just tried to clean it. I took the parts out and washed them down, dried them, and re-bathed them in mineral oil. I wanted to see if the resistance was in the cable connecting the slave to the cylinder so I tried bleeding it without the master cylinder assembly on it and fluid flowed through freely, not zero resistance, but how I feel it should when doing this. I reassembled the clutch while it was overflowing with fluid and filled up the master cylinder and it has worked since I did it.

The new slave cylinder came into play because somehow I successfully bled the clutch for the first time early on and it slowly failed until my clutch had no feeling. I read and it said that if it wasn't losing fluid at the master it would be at the slave so I bought a new slave and installed it about halfway through the process and I haven't had an issue with losing pressure over time. I could've probably bought a new O-ring for the piston in the slave cylinder, but my dad already purchased a new slave cylinder and had sent it to me.

Also would you happen to know anything about my headlight issue? It works sometimes and not other times and when I slap it, it comes back on.
 

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Dirt Wizard
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Headlight just sounds like a crook bulb, poor earth or bad connection.
Had you tried a new bulb?
 

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I haven't got a new bulb just yet I'll try that and see how it goes. My seal next to my counter shaft has gotten too bad for my liking and I've ordered a new seal kit to install for it. I got a MT43 tire too because I heard they're pretty good, but that's a whole other discussion lol.

With the chain hitting the sub-frame, I'm going to try and simply reverse the bolt because one side is completely flat, whether or not it hits my ankle is another issue.
 

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As of everything is working fine on my bike, I just replaced the counter-shaft seal and haven't seen any leakage(only been one day so far), added a new hammerhead shifter and it doesn't clip the crank case anymore, and I tapped a T10 bolt thread through my kickstand, frame, and sub-frame and just put in a T10 bolt instead of trying to find a low profile nut and combo which would've taken a good bit of research and me probably getting it wrong a couple times.

I pinched my tube about 7 or 8 times while trying to put the MT43 on which is all my fault I just couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. I tried to not go too far past 90 degrees, I put my hand in before I put the tire tool in to make sure the rim tube wasn't in the way, I pushed the tool in and pulled it all the way out to where the lip just caught the rim, and finally I put the tube in completely deflated with baby powder in the tire carcass, then inflated to 10 pounds of pressure then took the valve stem out and installed the edge of the tire. That was the only time it worked and I'm not sure if it was one single factor or a combination of not doing something above that lead to so many pinches or if it was something completely unrelated. The bead was 100% on one side and 80% on on the other at 35 pounds of pressure and I just rode it down the road at speed and it came on.

I haven't installed the new headlight bulb I got because the in and out nature of the original light has stopped for the time being.
 

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Dirt Wizard
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Sounds like your getting it sorted out. I don't muck around changing tyres anymore. The bike shops charge next to nothing to put it on the machine, for the extra few dollars it saves scratching rims, pinching tubes and kicking and swearing?
 

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Valve Adjustments

Skip to second paragraph to skip backstory.

New problems. I got tired of the delay in throttle response so I re-opened the can of worms that is the carburetor for me. I tried going by the manual and going from there. When I close the fuel mixture screw it has no effect on the idle so I took the carb off and completely cleaned it all of the jets and pathways using carb cleaner. As it has gotten colder, it has been increasingly difficult to start to the point where I'd roll it down a hill to start. I'd read that the valved were a good place to start so I removed the covers and tried to adjust them, but I had no luck in that I couldn't fit the smallest gauge under the rocker even with the screw all of the way out.

I can't seem to properly adjust my valve clearances. I tried to fit the feeler gauges in, but even the smallest wouldn't fit at first. I loosened the screws and tried to fit again and only sometimes I can fit maybe one of the smaller ones. There is barely any rock with the screws all of the way out. I tried the 1/6 back turn method and it didn't work either. The bike cranked, but very stubbornly. I could use any advice, tips, things too look for, where I'm going wrong, really anything.
 

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Dirt Wizard
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Do you have clearance at the valves now after you did the point-point of nut adjustment? I can explain it to you if you think you have done it wrong.
Is your intake manifold boot air tight, no cracks? Does your acc pump work? And is your choke working?
 

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I could never really fit the feeler gauge in the area because the little cup on the ball and socket joint pinched the gauge and I wasn't able to get it in. When doing the point-point method, I tightened until I felt resistance then went back 1/6th of a turn. I felt the clearance but never saw it or stuck at feeler gauge in it.

My intake manifold as far as I know is good, one of the metal tension rings around the boot broke and I've ordered a new one.

My acc pump before I cleaned my carb didn't seem to go all of the way down, but after it seems to be working fine.

I'm not sure how to determine if the choke is working, the mechanism of it is working. It goes in and out with a brass colored piece moving on the inside and I sprayed carb cleaner all around the choke opening and on the piece so I believe it is.

I did not spray carb cleaner on the seals of the acc pump and the slide.

The main issue is the valves, previously the bike ran, but poorly, now I can't keep the bike on. It will crank, but not consistently at all.
 

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Dirt Wizard
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If you have a day or 2 I am currently assembling an rfs engine and I will take a video of how to do it. 1/6 of a turn is all you need, if you can wiggle the rocker arms up and down and feel clearance that should be enough to have it fire. Fill the bowl of the carby up with fuel, hold the carb upright and crack the throttle wide open quickly and hold it open. You should get a jet squirt of fuel out of the ac pump jet for about 3 seconds. As for the choke, if you pull it out and it locks (stays out) it is probably working ok.
 

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Yeah the video would be great, I couldn't feel any wiggle in the rocker arms. I haven't tested the acc pump yet, but the choke does hold out.
 

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This is a video of my valves. I loosened the flathead of the way out and set it at what I thought to be TDC and there's very very in the intake rockers. Even if I was 180 off, it still should have been more than barely audible play in the intake rocker.

Is there something I'm missing or does the issue go deeper?
 

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Dirt Wizard
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You must not be at tdc or you have jumped teeth or one of your intake valves has bashed back into the head and the rocker arm is holding the spring tension. Get a torch and try to see if both cam lobes are pointing down and your piston is right up the top or the lock groove in the crank is lining up with the lock bolt hole
 

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Dirt Wizard
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You also should set your exhaust valve clearance about 5 degrees past tdc to make sure you are not riding on the auto decomp
 

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I took the head off and looked at the valves and they seat way too deep and there was some wear on the piston so I sent it to Millennium Technologies in Wisconsin to re-sleeve and re-valve.
 

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Dirt Wizard
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I took the head off and looked at the valves and they seat way too deep and there was some wear on the piston so I sent it to Millennium Technologies in Wisconsin to re-sleeve and re-valve.
Not good news mate, but that would definitely describe a few things,.
However you are in good hands with Milltech:thumbup1:
 

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So I got the piston and valves back and they looked superb. I installed them and also replaced my throttle cable(it was on one thread), front tire, rear sprocket bolts(some were nearly round allen holes, powercoated the rims black, polished the bolts with a wire brush and sprayed them with a metal clear coat, and finally retapped my front fork guard bolts with some helicoils. I also straight wired my headlight to my battery because the power output at low rpms caused the LED to flicker and also I crashed and destroyed the top half of my control switch.

When I changed my oil for the first time it came out very quickly not like oil shoud, especially dirty oil. It was still dark, but it smelled like gas. I'm guessing I have gas leaking into my oil, but I'm not sure how or what to do about it. I really don't think it's coolant or water, although my coolant levels were very low the other day, I think that's just because I've been overheating in some tight woods riding. I changed the oil recently after the change where I found the gas in it and there didn't appear to be any gas. I might have checked too soon to really let some seep in there if it was going to or not, I'm wondering if that's a break in type thing or if I crashed and some gas for some reason creeped in my oil, or if that's a pressing issue that needs to be dealt with immediately.

I adjusted the valves to the best of my ability and started it up. I've been riding it for a couple months now and had just a couple concerns. My valves started out pretty loud and have quieted down quite a bit since then, I'm not sure if that's normal break in procedure or I adjusted my valves wrong and it wore my valves down quicker than it should've to meet my adjustment.

When I'm riding down the highway the front wheel bounces up and down every other second, it'll start hopping then roll regularly then repeat. I've read some about it and it seems to be caused by my rimlock up front. I could either take out the rimlock or add some counterweights to it. What would be the downfall of removing the front wheel rimlock? I feel it doesn't have nearly as big of an effect as the rear one because it's only braking, but I'm just guessing. If I were to put some counterweights up front how much should they weigh, I've heard 2.5 ounces is good, but that was from just one guy. I do not have a balancing stand.

Edit: I added pictures of the powdercoated rims and also some of the polished bolts. I polished my rear disc brake, handlebar bolts, my clutch cover bolts, and a lot more. I haven't gotten to the rear brake lever obviously lol. From the handlebar picture you can see that the top piece of my controls has some heavy electrical tape action there because the switch broke out during a fall I had. The switch for the light now is in between the bark buster mount and the handlebar mount. Also thats the headlight I'm using. It's a stupid bright compaired to the stock light, I ride back home at night a lot and this is super helpful. This is a link to the light, it was like $20 and included 2 of them.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/SUCOOL-square-lights-tractor-automative/dp/B00NIHOZP8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1490992755&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=kaleep+48w+led[/ame]
 

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