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A Canadian called Anton Chigurh? What's in your oxygen tank, polite requests in gas form? :ROFLMAO:

I would definitely take that to a metal shop over a dealer. I have zero doubt they're much better at finding creative solutions concerning sheared bolt heads and solving any such problems. Not that a motorcycle mechanic isn't qualified - it's that a metalworker gets these kinda situations all the time and skill & experience is what you want to have this problem fixed. Probably cheaper too.

How stuck in is that drill bit? How about a magnet on a stick to get it to turn out?
 

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I did something similar one of the oil plug bolts on my SDGT.
Over torqued it, really didn’t think I tightened it that hard, but at the next oil change it wouldn’t budge.
Rounded the head, tried a grip socket and even JB welding the grip socket to the bolt. If it wasn’t aluminum I would have had someone weld a nut to it and try again.

Ended up taking it to a local motorcycle shop that has a couple really good mechanics.
Since it is aluminum they ended up carefully chiseling it out.
Did a great job, didn’t ruin the threads and nothing in the oil pan.
Cost me $180 bucks, so it was an expensive lesson learned.

I would second taking it someone with some experience with problems like this. Especially if it needs re-threaded.
KTM dealer mechanics might be able to tackle it, but it might be something they don’t want to mess with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Thnak you all for the great replies, I have a machinist friend coming by in a week, he is confident that he'll be able to extract the broken bit. And of course we'll also figure out the install of a helicoil too, really good to know that a time sert wont fit (I was leaning in that direction, and they're expensive).

Presently, I am going to measure the space in the hole that exists between the broken bolt and the opening of the hole...worst case, if I cant get the bit out, hopefully I have enough room to create 4 threads via tapping or helicoil, and toss a stud or shortened bolt in.

And yes, to the fella that recognized my name, I'm gonna flip a quarter, and you're gonna call it, lol.
 

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Please come back when it's resolved, and let us know how you dealt with it.

Good luck with the repair!!
 

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Thats a bugger! Hate stripping holes! On my 250 exc I make it a habit to use short 1/4 drive ratchet and only use 8ft lb or so on my 8mm case/cover. Less accidental leverage.

for the powervalve cover, a 5mm diameter bolt I also add some gasket maker and/or loctite. I find gasket maker/rtv really helps secure the bolt but not oversecure. I add gasket mater to my powervavle covers because they leak spooge with only the gasket. Add a smidge more around the holes and just use whatssquishes out.These bolts are even less torque, probably 4-5ftlb and I've never lost one.
 

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Just skimmed over the posts, but wouldn't a left hand drill bit or left hand speed out work better to get it out? Or was that mentioned already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You bet, responding with resolution (or perhaps lack thereof in this case) is important to me. Guys often wonder how to be thankful for the help, and I think tying up the problem with a response is one of the best ways.

I will also definitely heavily consider the loctite and proper low torque wrench options in the future, thanks for the reminder on that as well.

And yes, to the last poster, screw outs were tried without luck...I screwed up and didnt try adding heat to the mixture.
 

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Helicoil is the only choice between the two there is not enough material in that spot to
use a Timesert.
I thought that was the very reasoning to use a timesert instead of a helicoil? Unless Timesert doesn’t make them that small, that I don’t know.. Timesert removes less material as it staggers the ID/OD threads, Helicoil stacks the ID/OD threads as the ‘coil’ fits the groove of each; stacked requires slightly larger diameter.

I’ve used Timesert to repair a 14mm rear subframe attach point on my BRZ and it worked a treat. Much easier than expected.

I’m ultimately curious to hear how the dealer handles this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well the measurements came back disappointing.

Distance from edge of engine block hole to the back of the hole: 10mm
Distance from edge of engine block hole to the tip of the stuck drill bit: 5mm

So it seems there is about 5mm of drill bit stuck in there, and I only have 5mm room to build on top of it if I can't get it out.

I don't think 5mm is enough space for an effective helicoil or time sert.

I think 5mm should be enough for me to tap 4 threads at .8 thread pitch...so I'll prob go that route if my machinist friend can't get the drill bit out. If I have to toss in a slightly larger stud (m6 instead of m5), and need to over bore the oil filter cover to make it all fit, am I safe to assume that the oil filter cover is also made out of aluminum?
 

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I know this is desperate (hacky?) but could you insert a threaded rod in there and JB Weld it in place, then use a nut on the stud instead of a bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I know this is desperate (hacky?) but could you insert a threaded rod in there and JB Weld it in place, then use a nut on the stud instead of a bolt?
I love the idea for its ease and simplicity...but I just dont think it'll hold up long term. Have you heard of others having success with that?
 

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I've been a machinist, fixer of things, racer and builder for the past 50 years. You've got yourself a problem that can go very bad very quickly. If you have a broken drill in that hole there's only one way to get it out, (without pulling the motor, splitting the cases, etc,etc). And that would be to make a drill jig with the same hole spread as the aluminum cover, make it out of steel and have it hardened. Then buy a left hand carbide drill bit (or 2) and use the drill guide you just made to remove the broken drill in the hole. The drill guide will have to be secured with a bolt in the other hole and also a boss to fit inside the diameter of the oil filter hole. I think you said you have a machinist friend who's going to help, this should make sense to him. You can pm if you like. I can recommend types of steel and where to by the drills if he needs to know. Obtw, if you break the carbide drill you are hosed. So be gentle.
 

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I wouldn’t waste my time at the dealer - they will not be able to resolve it and likely make matters worse. A specialist is required....
 

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Good luck with this, we are all waiting for the result. Thumbs up for the name ah, Mr. Chigurh sir, no disrespect.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Welp, machine shop says with only 5mm clearance in the hole, they'll only be able to get a couple threads with a bottom tap, so that's a no go with the broken drill bit stuck in there clogging it up.

Shop suggests letting them remove the engine case, possibly split it, and then they'll have to drill press the bit out for approx $600 including reassembly....maybe more, depends on how challenging it proves. Then of course drill / tap to repair to functioning.

I am going to wait till my machinist buddy can take a peek at it to confirm, and maybe go dwsso's suggested route.

In the meantime, I am thinking about getting a dremmel, and some diamond burrs to just shave out as much of the drill bit as possible...is this a really bad idea?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Here's a better picture, where you can see the drill bit, 5mm beyond the lip of the hole...it looks like the flutes are pretty exposed, maybe a decent bit point to get a small punch into...
 

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See if you can get a left-hand extractor-type bit in the hole. You could likely get a replacement case half for less than $600, if the cases aren't paired. Keeping the drill centered so as not to take out anything you don't want to remove is the big sticking point. A jig is a great idea if you can devise one.
 
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