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Discussion Starter #1
Moving the 1290 SDR around the house for cleaning, showing off or making love (guilty as charged...) you'll have noticed the front brakes tend to have a minor drag / squeak. On a very specific spot in a revolution of the wheel you'll find it, especially when on a paddock stand. Apparently, this may cause disc warping and is an expensive endeavour to fix. On the plus side, it gives you an excuse to buy the Powerparts discs which are better in every way. But that's still several hundred $ later for a component that need not be replaced if the issue never existed. Because replacing the disc won't solve the problem.

So I found this on a Dutch motorcycle forum which was reposted from another Superduke forum. It's pretty self explanatory. Mine is due for a new set of rubber and I might as well have a looksie at the rim when the tyre's off. Looks to be an easy fix. Has to improve fuel economy too, but mainly brake feel. I do know the front brake feels ever so slightly fuzzy once in a while.

http://www.superduke.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26777

92758


I hope this clears up the mystery that seems to plague every Superduke in existence.
 

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Thank you for reposting this. I'll check this too as I have noticed a slight "sound change" when the front wheel spins in the air
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Suggestions included a lathe or other metal working hardware. I doubt hand tools are accurate enough. Mind you only a very minimal amount of metal needs trimming for the wheel to turn true.
 

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It will be very hard to find a lathe this big that can mount the wheel. When you have it unseeing filing, would you mind to take some pictures and share? Thanks


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Discussion Starter #6
I hope to place an order for new tyres before the year is out. Not much riding going on now that fall is upon us combined with working hours. But I am as curious as any to find out about this little revelation, and when the time is there I will certainly ask to have a looksie at the dealer when the wheel's off.
 

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Very interesting! I was just thinking...... (now that's dangerous :rolleyes:)..... depending on how much metal needs to be removed.. maybe a dremel disc might fit into that area...without damaging any machined surfaces?

My mechanic spray's WD40 (carefully) onto the hub surface and works carrier's back an forth when refitting/replacing brake rotors..... to clean any grit from the surface prior to torquing the brakes to the hub. He says it doesn't take much grit to potentially put a rotor out of alignment.

Ducati Aus replaces Brembo rotors - so long as an owner buys the first set from a dealer and then claims within 2yrs for each set thereafter....... I wonder if they need to re-machine their hubs?. I know a MS1200 owner who has had 3-4 sets replaced on his bike since he bought it new in 2013 (I've ridden with him for 30yrs and can vouch for his riding style)..... his Brembo 320mm rotors warp before 18 months and he claims new replacements from Ducati before the 24month period expires........ he gets a Ducati mech to fit them.

I try to ensure I don't hold the front brakes on after a hard stop, in case the pads 'hot spot' and cause the rotors to warp. I just figured 320mm disc's were more susceptible to warping than <310mm disc's. (My FZR1000's in the 90's used to eat 320mm rotors, yet my 260kg 05 CBR1100XX Honda still has it's oem rotors on at 130k kms, worn but not warped..... I forget what size they are, but they are < 320mm....).

A friend is looking at buying a 2019 ZZR1400 Kawasaki ..... specs list 310mm rotors on a 270kg 200Hp rocket ship...... does Kawasaki know something about 320mm rotors?

:unsure:..... My SDGT makes a funny 'groaning' harmonic sound as I wheel it around my garage..... thought it was the pad material or maybe some air in the lines....... will be nice to know if it really is the machined surface on the hubs that causes rotors to warp or squeal etc.
 
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Kawasaki ZZR 1400 (ZX-14) rotors are prone to warpage, moreso on the Concours 14 with it's extra heft. A friend has replaced the rotors on his C-14 3 times, although he tours two-up and loaded down. The problem is, Kawasaki made the rotors a bit thin to make them light, but this makes them more prone to heat-related issues. Removal of the rotors during tire swaps is a good idea, too, since they are very easily pranged out of shape if you're not careful.
 

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Very interesting! I was just thinking...... (now that's dangerous :rolleyes:)..... depending on how much metal needs to be removed.. maybe a dremel disc might fit into that area...without damaging any machined surfaces?

My mechanic spray's WD40 (carefully) onto the hub surface and works carrier's back an forth when refitting/replacing brake rotors..... to clean any grit from the surface prior to torquing the brakes to the hub. He says it doesn't take much grit to potentially put a rotor out of alignment.

Ducati Aus replaces Brembo rotors - so long as an owner buys the first set from a dealer and then claims within 2yrs for each set thereafter....... I wonder if they need to re-machine their hubs?. I know a MS1200 owner who has had 3-4 sets replaced on his bike since he bought it new in 2013 (I've ridden with him for 30yrs and can vouch for his riding style)..... his Brembo 320mm rotors warp before 18 months and he claims new replacements from Ducati before the 24month period expires........ he gets a Ducati mech to fit them.

I try to ensure I don't hold the front brakes on after a hard stop, in case the pads 'hot spot' and cause the rotors to warp. I just figured 320mm disc's were more susceptible to warping than <310mm disc's. (My FZR1000's in the 90's used to eat 320mm rotors, yet my 260kg 05 CBR1100XX Honda still has it's oem rotors on at 130k kms, worn but not warped..... I forget what size they are, but they are < 320mm....).

A friend is looking at buying a 2019 ZZR1400 Kawasaki ..... specs list 310mm rotors on a 270kg 200Hp rocket ship...... does Kawasaki know something about 320mm rotors?

:unsure:..... My SDGT makes a funny 'groaning' harmonic sound as I wheel it around my garage..... thought it was the pad material or maybe some air in the lines....... will be nice to know if it really is the machined surface on the hubs that causes rotors to warp or squeal etc.
Interesting. I have a 2010 Multistrada 1200S and I had the rotors replaced twice before Ducati Aus put a stop to it. After that I just had to learn to live with the pulsation :-(
 

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Also keep in mind that the wave style rotors are supposed to be longer lasting than the traditional round disc style. Something to do with the bigger holes allowing heat to dissipate more evenly etc. So if you are up for new rotors, go the wave style.
 

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I tried this on my rim as well, it didn't seem to help. I cleaned my brake rotor buttons and that made a world of difference. give this a try YMMV.
I'm due for front Brake pads really soon, if not over due, when I do my brake job I'm going to clean up the disks with Red Scotchbrite pads to remove any glazing and clean the buttons again.

Brake Rotor Button Cleaning
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried this on my rim as well, it didn't seem to help. I cleaned my brake rotor buttons and that made a world of difference. give this a try YMMV.
I'm due for front Brake pads really soon, if not over due, when I do my brake job I'm going to clean up the disks with Red Scotchbrite pads to remove any glazing and clean the buttons again.

Brake Rotor Button Cleaning
Thanks for the video. Gonna try that on mine soon, I can't move the buttons by hand. There's 10.000 km on it.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Hawk, that looks very interesting. That looks like a mod I'll be doing on mine. I just hope we're being fed the whole story of the procedure. Because it looks like a huge gain in feel, confidence and fuel economy.
 

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Any one tried to change the bobbing? It seems improved so much and eliminated the issue.

How to change:

Before and after clip:

What do you think?



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Thanks for posting as it clarified full floating as I thought ours were stock.
 

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Thanks for posting as it clarified full floating as I thought ours were stock.
Cheers mate, from what I have read, ours are semi-floating disks as they have wavy spring type of washer. They wavy washer kind of holds the disks and need force to move the disks.

Full floating disks have flat washer and can move freely. Very few bikes come with stock full floating disks.


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I would try the spin method with WD40 ... nothing to lose. Spray liberally with brake cleaner after.
 

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I would try the spin method with WD40 ... nothing to lose. Spray liberally with brake cleaner after.
Are you serious? I would think the “lubricant” components in the WD40 would contaminate the brake pads - perhaps addressing the squeaking ....at reduced braking capacity lol. ?
 

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Are you serious? I would think the “lubricant” components in the WD40 would contaminate the brake pads - perhaps addressing the squeaking ....at reduced braking capacity lol. ?
What? You don't regularly lube your brake discs? OK OK if it needs to be said ... remove wheel, nut and bolt to hold bobbin, spin said bobbin with WD40, spray all remnants with brake cleaner. Even finger oils should not remain ... replace with gloves on.
Guess you're not riding anymore huh .... talked to bro yesterday?
 

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What? You don't regularly lube your brake discs? OK OK if it needs to be said ... remove wheel, nut and bolt to hold bobbin, spin said bobbin with WD40, spray all remnants with brake cleaner. Even finger oils should not remain ... replace with gloves on.
Guess you're not riding anymore huh .... talked to bro yesterday?
Ha! Having a hard time following ....
So you are removing the front wheel from the sounds of it. What do mean by “bobbins”? The “buttons” on the rotors? Are you then putting a bolt and nut through each “bobbin” to spin it while lining it with WD40?
 
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