KTM Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
i am a first time RC8R 2010 owner and absolutely love the bike !!.
Done about 3,000 miles on it when suddenly a springbolt came loose in the clutch cover , rattled around and blew a hole straight through the cover !. Lost loads of oil and had to be rescued to get bike home.
On investigation there did not seem to be too much damage so i got a new cover, springbolt set and gasket, changed the oil and fired her up.
She ran great until coming to temperature thats when the red oil light came on and loads of blue smoke poured from the exhaust !!!.
I have been told that the oil pump drive gear could have broken or come away from the back of the clutch !!. So i am in the middle of removing the clutch but not being a great mechanic have got stuck !!. Clutch is easy enough but do i have to remove coolant to remove the large cover to get at the pump gear !!!, any help would be greatly appreciated !!!
 

·
Dirt Wizard
Joined
·
4,510 Posts
Welcome to the forum,
I haven't done any internal work to an rc8, buy I am pretty sure it will be the same as the sd, both being Lc8's.
Yes you do need to drop the coolant to remove main clutch cover as the water pump is in that cover.
Wouldn't hurt to inspect the water pump while you're at it. Earlier Lc8 models were a little prone to failure there.
Should be a short drain bolt with a copper washer just below the pump on the pump cover.

You have posted in the correct area for your first post, but I might just move it into the rc8 area so our rc8 owners/experts will find it easier.
 
  • Like
Reactions: eveyboy

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
295 Posts
There is an oil pump drive gear behind the clutch basket that was updated for 2011-up because it was prone to failure. It it a tricky little bast***, as you can bend it rather easily if you’re not careful when putting the basket back on during reassembly.
Anyways, it was prone to failure and there’s an updated part number. Check out this thread: http://www.ktmforums.com/forums/rc8-rc8r/67354-upgraded-water-pump-seals-oil-pump-gear.html
Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Just as worrisome as the oil pressure failure is the massive blue smoke. As described, it sounds like a broken piston ring, at least. This does not sound like a happy story developing.
Good luck, and keep us informed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: eveyboy

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hi Guys,
i am a first time RC8R 2010 owner and absolutely love the bike !!.
Done about 3,000 miles on it when suddenly a springbolt came loose in the clutch cover , rattled around and blew a hole straight through the cover !. Lost loads of oil and had to be rescued to get bike home.
On investigation there did not seem to be too much damage so i got a new cover, springbolt set and gasket, changed the oil and fired her up.
She ran great until coming to temperature thats when the red oil light came on and loads of blue smoke poured from the exhaust !!!.
I have been told that the oil pump drive gear could have broken or come away from the back of the clutch !!. So i am in the middle of removing the clutch but not being a great mechanic have got stuck !!. Clutch is easy enough but do i have to remove coolant to remove the large cover to get at the pump gear !!!, any help would be greatly appreciated !!!
Did you ever figure out what caused the springbolt to come loose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I've heard rumor that some were not tightened to the correct torque at the factory. But if somebody else went in and didn't use thread lock compound or didn't clean the threads, and failed to torque it up right then eventually it could work loose.

I fitted a slipper clutch, so I know mine are all good, still whenever I'm in that area I'll check them over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I've heard rumor that some were not tightened to the correct torque at the factory. But if somebody else went in and didn't use thread lock compound or didn't clean the threads, and failed to torque it up right then eventually it could work loose.

I fitted a slipper clutch, so I know mine are all good, still whenever I'm in that area I'll check them over.
I replaced the pressure cap, springs, mushrooms and cover last night but now it presents a problem of dragging clutch and when putting it into first it clunks very loudly.
Any advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I think they all clunk a little bit, especially when cold. Dragging after being in that area suggests it's something you've done.

Were the parts upgraded or OEM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Might be best to start a new thread. If the old outer pressure plate was excessively worn, and the old springs were weak, then the extra thickness of the plate, and spring strength are going to make it drag more than it was before. Somebody might have added an extra thick steel or pressure plate to compensate.

Might be worth bleeding the clutch slave and master, and checking the lever action, tightness and fit of slave to engine casing, and fluid condition/level, before considering opening it back up again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Might be best to start a new thread. If the old outer pressure plate was excessively worn, and the old springs were weak, then the extra thickness of the plate, and spring strength are going to make it drag more than it was before. Somebody might have added an extra thick steel or pressure plate to compensate.

Might be worth bleeding the clutch slave and master, and checking the lever action, tightness and fit of slave to engine casing, and fluid condition/level, before considering opening it back up again.
Might be best to start a new thread. If the old outer pressure plate was excessively worn, and the old springs were weak, then the extra thickness of the plate, and spring strength are going to make it drag more than it was before. Somebody might have added an extra thick steel or pressure plate to compensate.

Might be worth bleeding the clutch slave and master, and checking the lever action, tightness and fit of slave to engine casing, and fluid condition/level, before considering opening it back up again.
Thanks for for the good insight. I’m going to give that a go.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top