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Full Throttle
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5,561 Posts
THe main tensioners are
oil pressure and spring push + ratchet style position hold
Full manual mechanical single rod\ thread+locknut position hold
spring loaded push + ratchet style position hold

Is there such a thing as

spring loaded push only
 

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Full Throttle
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5,561 Posts
dirt tricks is a kind of copy of the OEM but with different internals possibly better ratchet and spring

https://www.ktm-parts.com/TCT-1.html

Uses oil pressure combined with a mechanical ratchet system to prevent collapse.
Replaces OEM 77036003000 and 77036003100

I did the manual locking tensioner on my 690.
But for the V twin i think ill join you in a design upgrade to the dirt tricks replacement.
 

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Premium Member
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250 Posts
26 threads including yours just in the RC8 sub mention manual tensioners to varying degrees:
https://www.ktmforums.com/forums/search.php?searchid=5506836
Probably more in the SD and other LC8 powered bikes sub forums.
Special attention should be directed to threads where valve shims come out and are transported to different parts of the engine.
There is a beauty to having the manual tensioners-you have direct control over the tension, thus removing all guess work.
Now that you got me thinking about it, maybe I’ll keep them, and take out the dirt tricks at the next valve adjustment.
 

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Full Throttle
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Brands come and go and Old links dont work.
Just to go over a conclusion

Personally i think a manual tensioner can be over tightened if your not aware of it, but i also think a manual item can add a different load and therefore an altogether different vibe.
IMO im gonna change out the OEM ones just to try and change the vibe up there in the head.
Noticing wear on the exhaust cams , how do we know that chain vibe isnt playing into this scenario.

Im just throwing shiiiit out of my thoughts right now.

The oem cant be modded so it is what it is , a work of art on something like 300 models since 2005.

Dirt tricks uses the same idea as OEM but the ratchet cant be forced in the case of a short time span of no oil pressure, so it seems the safer bet in regards to a loss of tension scenario.
>another thing about the spring loaded from the rear type is you can install it easier, install a stronger spring etc.

The maunual type seems the pic for a track only bike .
 

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Full Throttle
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5,561 Posts
cam info
7 front intake
8 front exhaust
9 rear intake
10 rear exhaust

61236009000 fi 2008,09 RC8 , no timing adjust
61236010000 fe 2008,09 RC8, no timing adjust
61236109144 ri 2008,09 RC8, no timing adjust
61236110000 re 2008,09 RC8, no timing adjust

61236009100 fi 2010 rc8, no timing adjust
61236010100 fe 2010 rc8, no timing adjust
61236109144 ri 2010 rc8, no timing adjust
61236110100 re 2010 rc8, no timing adjust

69136009044 fi 2009,2010 rc8R,redbull\akra, 2011,2012 rc8R track, timing adjust
69136010044 fe 2009,2010 rc8R, redbull\akra, 2011,2012 rc8R track, timing adjust
69136109044 ri 2009,2010 rc8R, redbull\akra, 2011,2012 rc8R track, timing adjust
69136110044 re 2009,2010 rc8R, redbull\akra, 2011,2012 rc8R track, timing adjust

69336009144 fi 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015 rc8R, timing adjust
69336010144 fe 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015 rc8R, timing adjust
69336109144 ri 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015 rc8R, timing adjust
69336110144 re 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015 rc8R, timing adjust
 

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Does anyone have info on the manual tensioners?
And Cors, how are the dt's working out? If I can't find manual tensioners, those dt's seem the way to go.
 

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Full Throttle
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5,561 Posts
Does anyone have info on the manual tensioners?
And Cors, how are the dt's working out? If I can't find manual tensioners, those dt's seem the way to go.
most important thing for me was to change the tensioners and run ester blend oil in my 20km motor.

the manual tensioners , ill post a thread in superdukes
 

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Full Throttle
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5,561 Posts
And Cors, how are the dt's working out? If I can't find manual tensioners, those dt's seem the way to go.
i went looking and cant seem to find them for the sdr 1290 gt , although there are models that fit the 1290 and will work they are just not listed as fitting the 1290, Ktm twins would have them if they we as good or better than the dirt tricks. For example the manual tensioners for the rc8 will probably fit, all those components are the same, the 1290 literally uses most of the rc8 parts.

 

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I should contact AS3 to get their thoughts. I can see why APE may not be interested unless one they already make for single cylinders would suffice.
 

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Full Throttle
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Yes you can adjust the cam timing on the rc8r.
There's some different "front and rear pattern piece" with the different kit.

I haven't got the numbers for the club kit, but i think it's the same numbers as the superstock kit (same pattern piece), only superbike kit is different.

Club Kit :

Front pattern piece ST929030000
Rear pattern piece ST929130000

Superstock kit :

Front pattern piece ST929030000
Rear pattern piece ST929130000

Inlet opens (at 1 mm valve lift) before TDC 9.5°
Inlet closes (at 1 mm valve lift) after BDC 54.5°
Exhaust opens (at 1 mm valve lift) before BDC 55°
Exhaust closes (at 1 mm valve lift) after TDC 9°
Inlet valve overlap 113°
Exhaust valve overlap -114°
Intake valve clearances 0.08 - 0.012
Exhaust valve clearances 0.25 - 0.30

Superbike Kit :

Front cylinder pattern piece SB929030000 (scope of supply)
Rear cylinder pattern piece SB929130000 (scope of supply)

Inlet opens (at 1 mm valve lift) before TDC 10.5°
Inlet closes (at 1 mm valve lift) after BDC 54.5°
Exhaust opens (at 1 mm valve lift) before BDC 55°
Exhaust closes (at 1 mm valve lift) after TDC 7°
Inlet valve overlap 112°
Exhaust valve overlap -114°
Intake valve clearances 0,10-0,015
Exhaust valve clearances 0,25-0,3

Do it by hand without the pieces the supply, i know that last time someone who build an engine with the sbk kit, the numbers were not good with the parts supplied.

And a good gain in performance was found!
Another way to show the set up is

rear head
The exhaust cam is chained to the crank so thats the leading cam.
How many teeth is the new cam setting from the normal cam timing mark on the rear exhaust, clockwise or anti clock wise teeth when crank is tDC??????
Next check
Use the hole drilled into the rear cams lobe and match it up with the 2 upright threaded posts that the valve cover bolts into.
The rear exhaust cam is pointing opposite to the valve.
Now turning motor anti clockwise and using the guide rail that bolted over the cam sprockets.
Set the cam hole so the end of the guide rail is sitting on a tooth peak, not a tooth valley.

spin the crank until the rear intake cam thats following the exhaust cam is also pointed opposite to the valve, and the hole in the intake cam lobe lines up with 2 valve cover threaded posts.
count how many teeth rolled over from either cams upright position . was it 9,10,11,12,13 teeth?

Same with the front head , how many teeth clockwise or anti clockwise is the front intake cams set compared to where the marking is at TDC ( front intake cam is chained to the crank and is the leading cam)
Then again set the front exhaust cam in the upright position and using the guide rail as a marker count the teeth until the intake cams hole lines up with 2 threaded valve cover posts.
was it 9,10,11,12,13 teeth?

thank in advance to anyone willing to post up their cam settings , remember what model and year you have.
 
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