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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased a 2003 KTM 300exc last week thats in need of a little love. The clutch is giving me issues right now. It has what I believe is the 1st gen revloc clutch. I know it works because its worked a handful of times for me. My issue is most of the time the clutch won't disengage. Also after rebuilding the slave cylinder, the clutch started to work then the piston popped out of the slave and the clutch returned to not working. Are there any adjustments with this clutch? It seems as if the pushrod is not long enough. Any help is greatly appreciated 馃檹
 

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Way back when I had an 02 300mxc with first gen revlock. I don't remember there being any adjustment other than possibly lighter/heavier balls. Pretty sure the oem pushrod was used and worked fine. Possibly worn/warped plates?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Way back when I had an 02 300mxc with first gen revlock. I don't remember there being any adjustment other than possibly lighter/heavier balls. Pretty sure the oem pushrod was used and worked fine. Possibly worn/warped plates?
I checked the plates and frictions and they are good actually I think they are brand new.
Spoke with the owner of EFM auto clutch and he gave me an idea to put a 1/4" ball bearing under the throw out bearing. (Between the pushrod and pressure plate) This would effectively lengthen the pushrod by 1/4" and hopefully solve the issue of the piston coming out. I will report back after I try that out. Hopefully tonight, thanks
 

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Ideas:
  • Fit a longer rod
  • Cut rod in half, fit a small ball bearing between the two rod pieces (early KTM's had this setup). Set a rough adjustment by cutting one of the pieces gradually shorter until all works well. Once that far the clutch master/slave will self adjust.
  • Also make sure you have bled out all the air from the clutch master/slave setup!
  • Fit a new clutch seal kit. (for master/slave).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright guys I think I'm making a little headway now. Tried the 1/4 " bb between the pushrod and throwing and it was too long and the clutch wouldn't even engage. Also tried a bb .172 diameter and it was still too long. I think I'm going to add another 1mm shim to the throw out bearing and see if that does it. I did flip the pushrod around because I saw there was an indentation on the end where it had been riding on the bb in the slave cylinder and thats how it currently sits. The slave piston no longer comes out too far. Thats how it currently sits with no bbs or shims and is rideable but the clutch drags at idle. I think when I get the right preload between the slave and the revloc pressure plate it will be great!
Thanks for your suggestions and or comments and keep them coming!
 

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Alright guys I think I'm making a little headway now. Tried the 1/4 " bb between the pushrod and throwing and it was too long and the clutch wouldn't even engage. Also tried a bb .172 diameter and it was still too long. I think I'm going to add another 1mm shim to the throw out bearing and see if that does it. I did flip the pushrod around because I saw there was an indentation on the end where it had been riding on the bb in the slave cylinder and thats how it currently sits. The slave piston no longer comes out too far. Thats how it currently sits with no bbs or shims and is rideable but the clutch drags at idle. I think when I get the right preload between the slave and the revloc pressure plate it will be great!
Thanks for your suggestions and or comments and keep them coming!
Good! You should be able to adjust the stroke of the rod by adjusting the leaver on the master if there is some freeplay in the leaver before it makes the piston in the slave to start moving.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
SCORE!!!

Installed a .060 thick washer between the throw out bearing assembly and the pressure plate. This put just enough preload on the pressure plate to keep it from engaging at idle speed. The clutch liked to drag a little when it was cold, but once warm it worked like a charm!
Not gonna lie, its nice, but its going to take a lot of getting used to not having to work the clutch at low speeds
 
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