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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So for those of you have followed me I brought a used 2011 RC8R this summer and had it at the shop quite a while getting maintenance done and making it ready for street use as the owner had removed all the turn signals and the stock mirrors were gone.

At the same time I was pursuing getting the bike ready for track use as well, and researched a lot of adding electronics to the almost totally analog beast. Turns out the the race body was incomplete and did not include a seat section so I found where the body came from Perfect Faring in Athens Greece. So I just got a new seat and tail section.

Decided on a paint scheme for the race body and it has been dropped at a paint shop. No idea on when it will get done. So when it does get back I will have to fit it.

I got Bridgestone RS11’s for the track and will be mounting these on my second set of wheels. The bike had Q3 pluses on it roughly 50% life left on them. So I will use this set for street use.

I have repacked the FMF exhaust which had never been repacked and it was loud to the point of hurting your ears. Now it is comparable to my 1290 which has a stock SDGT exhaust.

Three things left to do mechanically, removal of the SAS system Removal of the SAI charcoal system and canister. Lastly the adding of the Healtech QS system. So I have slowly been removing plastics, front light, air box ,throttle bodies so I can get to the SAS valve location and to get access to the spark plug locations.

Took my time, but it was a pretty steep learning curve, with limited You tube support on this subject. My biggest problem was getting the throttle bodies and air box off. I can see going forward what to do both removing and replacing as you see the mechanics involved.

Right now I am set to remove the SAS valve and tubes which are just in front of the air box. Lastly I will be installing the Healtech QS system. Then it will be time to close up the bike. Hurrah!!

I did get the TuneECU app on my android device tablet and with the appropriate dongle and blue tooth attachment. The bike has a CPR air intake system which is basically a copy of the Rottweiler system. So I am thinking I will flash a tune which has this intake with a Akrapovic EVO exhaust. This should get me close.

What a journey guys. I just want to thank all of you for your insights and opinions. I am sure there will be other questions like tuning the QS system, or flashing the ECU, or fitting the race body. I just wanted you all to know how much I appreciate your input.

This is me though. I really enjoy the tinkering and customizing things to you needs and wants. Hard to believe I am getting started in this at 68 . But before it was kids, and work that were important. They are all on their own and now it is some time for me. My wife supports all my craziness so it makes it easy".

Here are some pics of the journey and where I am now. The last one is the pic of the paint scheme I plan on using.








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Hi, I have a 2013 RC8R and ordered the SAS delete stage 3 Rottweiler kit and that doesn't seem to complicated to install, just time consuming. I was wondering if its a big enough change to warrant a tune with stock intake and exhaust. Second question is if the healtech qs does auto blip downshifts as well as upshifts? From my research it seems to be the best option if I dont plan on using a power commander. Thanks for your time (y)
 

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kit and that doesn't seem to complicated to install, just time consuming. I was wondering if its a big enough change to warrant a tune with stock intake and exhaust. Second question is if the healtech qs does auto blip downshifts as well as upshifts? From my research it seems to be the best option
the SAs just adds air into the exhaust port after the valve...........so removal and blocking the one way valves on the head just removes that air.......... i just blocked those valves with packing and left the sas parts as it can be turned off using tune ecu........

flash maps
the benifits of using a race map out weigh the stock map simply because the 1,2,3 gear resrtictors are disabled on the race map ........... regardless of fueling mods, theres other benefits in modding the 2nd throttles and messing with the spark timing and a swith map called the F/L map, which in itself can give good gains depending how you ride(particulaly for track use imo)
 

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the SAs just adds air into the exhaust port after the valve...........so removal and blocking the one way valves on the head just removes that air.......... i just blocked those valves with packing and left the sas parts as it can be turned off using tune ecu........

flash maps
the benifits of using a race map out weigh the stock map simply because the 1,2,3 gear resrtictors are disabled on the race map ........... regardless of fueling mods, theres other benefits in modding the 2nd throttles and messing with the spark timing and a swith map called the F/L map, which in itself can give good gains depending how you ride(particulaly for track use imo)
Thanks for your input, I'm pretty new to the platform (4mo) but it has felt as if the bike was really held back from the factory by emissions etc. I was never sure if my theory was right or if I was getting desensitized to speed
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes the QS is up and down.


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. I was never sure if my theory
You need to try the bike back to back with what's called a 100% map (2nd throttles). It literally just sets those throttles at full open so they no longer Interact at parts throttles...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So today I had to work at home so I decided to turn the heater on in the garage and get some things done as my first track day is going to be in Florida on February 19th. Sent the race body out to get it painted and supposedly they started on it today. Not counting on it being done anytime soon, so I decided I would just set the bike up in its street skin for my first track day.

Today I loosened the radiator and got under the area where to SAS valve was, disconnected the SAS valve and removed all the tubing. Put a dongle on the quick connect. Then I removed all the SAI piping and valve. I had disconnected and removed the charcoal canister before. So I finished up that.

Then I removed the vacuumed line all the way back to the engine casing. Then I took 1/4” Tygon tubing from the vacuum outlets to the left side of the bike and plugged them. This can now latter be used to sync the throttle bodies.

Then I replaced the headlight, installed the ram air leads, the radiator and then the radiator guard. All that is left is the install of the Healtech Quick shifter, and then it will be time to put the air box and throttle bodies back on. Once I am there, reinstall fuel tank, and put all the plastics back on.

I did score a used set of stock mirrors from someone on the forum. These will be going on for street use. Not having the stock mirrors when I got the bike, I put on some CRG Lane splitter bar end mirrors. I do not like them because the bars are so low you have to look down and then search for the rear view mirrors. So I am happy finding a pair of stock mirrors. They should be here in a week or so.

Hopefully the quick shifter will only need minor tweaking and then we should be good. Then I will be heading to Florida for some track time. I’ll just use the Dunlop Q3’s that are currently on the orange rims. They are half used. Then I have a new pair of Bridgestone RS11’s which I plan to putt on the black rims.

Once I am back from Florida I’ll strip the bike and start fitting the race body. I have the bracket for the repositions of the electrical rectifier. So that will take some time, and the I will be finally done. Done? You are never done because by this time I will need new tires to replace the Q3’s. Depending on how the RS11’s run I may get another set for pure street use.





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just a though
2 things changed the bike for me.....When i got the bike it had a short chain the bike would lift the front wheel easy, i couldnt stop it....Thats when i disovered anti wheelie in the back positions of the rear wheel on the swing arm.....Tweaking using half link of full link produces different results .I never fine tuned myself but im thinking track bikes might benefit more than street if a tweaked position was used......
And clipons with a little bit of height lift and wrist twist option.

pic is example only

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure how it’s going to feel to me on the track. I’ll get it there on February 19 . Doing a track day in Florida. Hopefully the weather cooperates. The little bit I rode it, before I started tearing kit apart, I did not experience extreme front wheel lifting. Of course you have to take into account that I am 270 lbs.

I have through about raising the front bars a bit as well. I am sure I will get tons of ideas and feedback once I get it to the track. So moving the rear wheel back a 1/2” makes that much difference? I’ll keep that in mind.


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moving the rear wheel back a 1/2” makes that much difference?
im just saying wheelie control is in the swingarm,it has some effect..........Not that it wheelies but that the front wheel is not solid as your picking up the throttle out of a corner .....Same problem the 1290 has except maybe the rc8 is better engineered to race around a corner.
 

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Reason I mention is I bought a trackbike aswell and I'm not a track guy , I'm a smackdown guy..... When I first took the bike on the streets my friend said "owe is this how it's going to be now " ,he was referring to the front wheel unloading and making our races very much different than before..... I really could not control the bike until I fitted a longer chain .... It was a dramatic change and made me think that track use might need to be fine tuned (as in getting it to where the wheels are as close together as possible for extreme cornering) but letting out the rear to reduce lifting the front wheel..... must be a few links in it to get the sweet spot....

And after all your bike is awesome and I thought to mention it to you as another tool for the fine tune....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That what I love about this forum. Like most of this that love this stuff we are all willing to share what we have experienced. Nothing is right or wrong, just a great exchange of experience. So different from the outside world where everything is polarized and if you don t agree you are demonized as some sub human. To bad the world does not function like this. Thanks for everything.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yesterday worked on the bike quite a bit in the garage. Snowing outside so spent it inside" turned on the garage heater and away we went. Installed the QSE and then started putting the bike back together. (Air box) throttle bodies, tank. Put the battery in it and initially I only got a head light coming on when I turned on the ignition. Very perplexing. I thought **** I am going to have to take this bugger apart and check everything.

Well third cycle in of turning on the ignition and the display and pump came up. Wanted a sec and then hit ignition, it rolled for about 5 seconds because the fuel line was empty and then success. That was a good point to end the day of wrenching on.

Next put on plastics, set up the QSE and then all I need is a decent day to get the bike out on the road to tune up the QSE. Now that everything is done I can evaluate if I want to reflash the ECU. I do have TuneECU and the hardware and software to do it. Keep you all updated.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There you go. One thing about the garage being cold, the gas tank looks like I can secure it without any hassles all the attachment points look like they will line up.



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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So got everything together and took it out for a quick ride Wednesday late afternoon as it was 55 degrees. Rain and snow coming our way. Thee bike runs pretty good, not perfect , but two problems. EFI flashes 5 long four quick. So I would imagine it is something to do with taking off the SAS and SAI charcoal canister. Don’t know why just is what it is.

Lastly got the Healtech QSE1 in and when setting it up noticed that the sensor value ( which I mounted on the shift rod) only registers about 6 to nine 9% . Checked engine cut and that works. So when riding it of course no QS function was available as the bottom sensitivity is set at 20%.

I emailed Healtech support as I believe I have a bad sensor. And they responded quick and want me to take off the conical washers and tell them what readings are.
I am at my other house today so I’ll get to that tomorrow. Dam it is always something.

In regard to the QS I read in your earlier post that you got QS to work up and down. How did you accomplish this and how did it work.

In regards to then EFI problem, my plan was to just have the dealer flash the ECU with the Akrapovic EVO4 flash because with the CPR intake and the FMF exhaust it will really be close physically to the RC8R track bikes configuration, it will turn off all the emissions systems.

I did you at tune ECU for main mapping but they do not have this configuration. So I figure the KTM track flash will get me close and then I can fine tune with TuneECU. By the way I did not get a cable and opted for Bluetooth dongle. I just noticed that TuneECU post some KTM tunes but noted across the top it say “ must use cable.”
What cables did you use.

Any hoot have a great day!! As Rosanne Roseannedana would say “ it’s always something”

Cheers


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In regard to the QS I read in your earlier post that you got QS to work up and down. How did you accomplish this and how did it work.
yes i did and its better than my other qs sensitivity........
Basically.
The best way........Set it up under the foot lever.
How it works, The adjustable pushrod that has the 2 rod end....... The rod end on the foot lever is allowed to side load against the qs sensor... The secret is the rod end and sensor are floating on the bolt and a o-ring is used to pre tension the floating rodend and sensor......So the o ring was important to my tuning how tight the rod end sits next to the sensor........ The longer bolt uses a lock nut......

To tune it was easy.
Hook the battery tender up, turn on the qs app...
Now just keep tapping the foot lever by hand while its in neutral.... Tighten the bolt so you have a pre tension come up on the app. I think i had 10%....
Now keep tapping the lever and increase the sensitivity on the app so when you bang the lever the sensor reads over the the 20%, might have been 30-40%...

The result was that i can keep my toe on the lever and not accidently shift but when i want to shift it can by being direct........
After a while i realized that the o ring made it so i could have a great up/down without having a tooo sensative lever that i needed to keep my toe off....... So yes , fine tune so its a very fast direct shift but not have a sensative lever im always worried to touch...........

I also began to speed up the shift using the app as i got it to the point where it wa so fast and clean qs shift that it reminded me of hearing a really well set up rce bike qs without any fat pop.......
 

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i have a rather exspensive qs that can only do up or down (not both).
I emailed the company and sent them pics of the healtech sensor which is just a simple sensor ....
I asked them if they had a simple sensor as i can use an install method to get both up/down at the same time.......Guy came back with excuses etc etc ...... i mean this is a rather well built qs(wont mention names)..... So i took it off and threw it in the spare parts box ....healtech all the way now........
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yes i did and its better than my other qs sensitivity........
Basically.
The best way........Set it up under the foot lever.
How it works, The adjustable pushrod that has the 2 rod end....... The rod end on the foot lever is allowed to side load against the qs sensor... The secret is the rod end and sensor are floating on the bolt and a o-ring is used to pre tension the floating rodend and sensor......So the o ring was important to my tuning how tight the rod end sits next to the sensor........ The longer bolt uses a lock nut......

To tune it was easy.
Hook the battery tender up, turn on the qs app...
Now just keep tapping the foot lever by hand while its in neutral.... Tighten the bolt so you have a pre tension come up on the app. I think i had 10%....
Now keep tapping the lever and increase the sensitivity on the app so when you bang the lever the sensor reads over the the 20%, might have been 30-40%...

The result was that i can keep my toe on the lever and not accidently shift but when i want to shift it can by being direct........
After a while i realized that the o ring made it so i could have a great up/down without having a tooo sensative lever that i needed to keep my toe off....... So yes , fine tune so its a very fast direct shift but not have a sensative lever im always worried to touch...........

I also began to speed up the shift using the app as i got it to the point where it wa so fast and clean qs shift that it reminded me of hearing a really well set up rce bike qs without any fat pop.......
Please send me a pic. One picture is worth a thousand words.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think you are saying to mount sensor out the bolt that secures the rear pushrod under the foot and that the sensor is not on the pushrod itself. Further you use the ring so you can finely adjust the amount of side tension sitting on the sensor. If so do you use the two conical washers as well? My sensor is currently on the shift rod itself.

Here is sketch which depicts what I believe you are saying.



Let me know and feel free to make a sketch or take a pic.

Thanks.


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