Well done.

This should be stickied.

 

Thanks! You're tha man

 

Just saw this. Nicely done.

No FI lights or anything? Any downsides?


j

Well done.

This should be stickied.

Thanks fellas.

Schnell I haven't removed the charcoal canister solenoid yet I need to go get resistors otherwise the SAS won't set any codes off since the solenoid that they used to have isn't there anymore. I haven't started the bike since I'm waiting to install my cam when it gets delivered so I won't know till then. But I'm confident everything will run smoothly. No down sides just less weight and less clutter..the SAS valve removed will make checking your valves easier.

 

Just saw this. Nicely done.

No FI lights or anything? Any downsides?


j

 

OK, so you do need to still short out the solenoid with resistors or something. I wasn't entirely clear in your write up wether or not you used anything for it. Looking forward to what happens!

And for the rad switch? Where did you get it?


j

 

You do if you plan on removing it otherwise you can leave it plugged in. I'll be removing it. The other kit I bought for the SAS came with a resistor so I'm going to try plugging it in to the charcoal canister solenoid and see if it works if it doesn't I'll be picking up some resistors and removing it completely.

I paired the link in the other thread for ya.

 

This might be a silly question but is it only the US model bikes that have this system fitted or worldwide?

 

That's a good question I haven't looked to see if other countries come with it but I would image they come with at least the SAS I've herd of other KTM's not having the charcoal canister. You fellas in different countries should check and I can update my original post that's why I only have U.S. listed. You could easily look under your gas tank and see if you have it. It's silver and right on top of the valve cover.

 

I'm pretty sure the SAS is universal but the charcoal canister is North American.

This will be my next project.


j

 

I just got doing the same project on my Duke. I left the charcoal canister as is and left the crank vent hose running into it. I used the emissions block off kit provided by KTM Twins (looks like on back order now). I did not need to plug a resistor into the solenoid connector and am not having any issues with fault codes.

 

Crank hose doesn't go to the charcoal canister it goes to the oil separator. Did you leave the solenoid on your bike or did you remove it? If you didn't remove it like I did then that's probably why you aren't having any fault codes.

 

Sorry, yes, into the oil separator. I removed the solenoid and am not getting any fault codes.

 

That's awesome. On all the other models I've seen it performed they've had to put resistors in them. I'll try it without and see what happens. Hopefully the same as yours.

 

Did you take the throttle body off to get the air/oil separator out? I played with it a bit when I did the cam but I don't see how it could come out otherwise.

 

Not completely I just got it loose and moved it down enough after taking the fuel injector out to make room. What you do have to take off completely is the airbox if you can't tell by the picture is that it's over a foot long.

 

Great post!


I remember doing some investigation on this awhile ago....especially the charcoal canister and associated tubing.

My investigation started when folks from Europe mentioned fuel was dripping on their valve covers degrading the paint. They also pointed out the source under the tank seemed to be missing a tube that the USA spec bikes have.




I will be leaving these components intact as KTM has neatly tucked these away and I wont have any issues with fuel overflowing or allowing moisture into the tank...or the FI indicator.

I will however install a block off plate - block the crankcase vent at the top of the head mainly to make maintenance MUCH easier!

It also should be noted our bikes actually don't have the conventional SAS plumbing/soleniod as other bikes do - ours is actually blocked :yes:

 

I'll be getting a long line of that fuel over flow hose and just routing it to the bottom of the motor so if it does it just spills on the ground so that won't be a problem. I don't know why the FI indicator would turn on because it's not connected to anything that would trip an FI light.

I did make a note of it..it's actually in the first paragraph where I discuss that ours is indeed blocked off already and had bought a kit thinking we did have the solenoid that included a resistor but the. Had no use for it after seeing that.

Thanks for labeling the picture hopefully it helps others.

 

Looks good

Hopefully you will get everything resolved soon and will be able to ride!

If I chose to put a block off plate and retain the oil separator , I may make a Y connection so the unused separator port goes to the crankcase...

 

Thank you.

I'm hoping for the same it's been over a month since I haven't been able to. Good thing I have other bikes eh.

I don't know how the system works exactly but that sounds like it'd work.

 

I found a filter that would go over the nipple that's already there for the crankcase breather... then I don't have to use an extra hose.

 

I was going to do that but I'd like to have the orange Samco hose with the filter also. Cost more but I'll like the look of that better.

 

UPDATE: You WILL need a resistor if you pull the charcoal canister solenoid I'll be posting up how I'll be making mine on here now that I got my bike back together I know you do indeed need one after starting it without it and it tripping the FI light.

 

Sorry for the delays fellas here's a little write up on how I did my resistor to keep the charcoal canisters solenoid from tripping the FI light.

First off go to your local electronics store that would sell resisters. Here's what you'll want. You can also buy them off ebay but you get a ton which I wouldn't need and these only cost me a little over a dollar


If you go my route I bought an electrical connector from ebay also to make my connection nice and legit looking. You'll also need a little bit of wire. This will be everything you'll need.

I soldered my wires together you could always use electrical connectors for this but I wanted it to be nice and sturdy with how much this bike vibrates.


I used some heat shrink around the two soldered wires and resistors and crimped the wires to insert it into the connector. Once your done with that it'll look like this.

Last step I cut the stock connector about an inch away and plugged the female end of my electrical connector in and voala! All done! Hope this helps you guys out. Again if you have any questions post away.

 

Sorry for the delays fellas here's a little write up on how I did my resistor to keep the charcoal canisters solenoid from tripping the FI light.

First off go to your local electronics store that would sell resisters. Here's what you'll want. You can also buy them off ebay but you get a ton which I wouldn't need and these only cost me a little over a dollar

I did my 2015 690 Duke with a 22k resistor as shown, but still get an intermittant FI light.

The internal resistance of the solenoid removed is 21.5 Ohm, not 22k.

Wondering if a 22 ohm resistor should be used, instead.

I put the solenoid back on the bike till I can make another run to Radio Shack during the week.

 

So what's the point?

What's the point other than saving weight? You put more of a burden and had to buy more items to get rid of the engine light.

 

What's the point other than saving weight? You put more of a burden and had to buy more items to get rid of the engine light.

Might be a burden to you but I love messing with my bikes. Removing the charcoal canister and SAS valve cost me a wopping $24 dollars and some of my time.

 

What size is the crankcase breather filter?

 

Part number from K&N is 62-1010 1/2" nipple. I wrapped a piece of tape around to make it fit nice and snug in the hose.

 

So can anyone tell me what and how many plugs/covers I will need to completely remove everything? In regards to the Duke IV.

 

One plug for your throttle body and another two if you decide to plug the two on the gas tank so it'd be three total just for the charcoal canister. Then only one of you just remove the SAS that leads to the air/oil seperator or none if you put a crankcase breather on and remove the air/oil seperator. Keep in mind that after putting on the cam I wouldn't recommend taking off the air/oil seperator and using a crankcase breather for some reason it'll spew oil out of it now that I have put the cam in but not before.

 

Ok having had a look through this thread, I believe can leave the Oil/Air separator in situ, and put a hose bung on the cam cover outlet and also its opposite end on the separator to achieve the same effeect, taking the "SAS" element out of the equation, right? And removing the need to actually get a blanking plate, making it cheaper

Think I'll leave the hose to the airbox in place so the crankcase can still breathe too

 

You can do exactly that or just get a blanking plate for $20-25 dollars without having to worry about a plug coming off the head.

 

Just noticed that the ebay link is not the same plug in your pictures...
Did you mistakenly paste the wrong link?

 

I clicked on it and it says the item has been taken off. I looked it up again and here's the most current link for that if anything just search 2 way waterproof connecter. http://m.ebay.com/itm/371235664275?nav=SEARCH

 

What type plug is this ? I'm asking so i know what type of shrink tool to order.

 

Brother if you click on it you'll see all the description you'll need to see to be able to determine that..if you can't based on the info provided in the link I don't really know what your trying to ask..and if your talking about a heat shrink terminal crimper tool you wouldn't need it since these are waterproof just make sure you don't remove too much material that protects the wire.

 

Brother.
If you calm down, I could explain.

Another name could be:
CABLE SHOE CLAMPING TOOL

But if you don't know what this is you don't need to do anything.

 

Huh why would I need to calm down haha?

If I didn't know what that was I wouldn't of gave you a specific name and if you saw what was in the link with the connectors you'd see that there's a male and female terminals that get crimped onto the wires then get pushed into the main body. So don't make something so simple complicated for yourself:turned:

 

So by researching Google pics I think it's Molex Crimping Tool.

 

if you want to buy the tool go for it simple needle nose pliers would do the trick.

 

When I installed my cam I noticed the SAS valve does not have a plug like the one in your picture.

Is there a way to tell if its affecting the bike if it's not plugged up?

 

Here's two main reasons ppl get rid of this and that's because they'll get backfiring on deceleration and or because they're about to get the bike tuned on the dyno and would mess up the AFR readings. Otherwise it won't affect anything if you remove it.

 

Hey Junkie,
Cool work on this. Always nice to have someone get rid of this **** and post it up to make it a bit quicker for everyone else. So, for the Duke IV, you need 22 kohm, 1/4 watt resistors?

Thanks a bunch man...

 

Thank you sir and that's correct you can see on post #26 I posted up some pics and connectors I used to plug it all in there's easier ways to do it I just chose the way I did it to lee everything clean and original looking.

 

Thanks to the O.P. and all other contributors to this topic, it made my work easier.

Installed a full Akra on my 690, a smog block plate, and got rid of a

bunch of extra garbage.

Along with a Lithium battery, this got the bike down from 362 to 347,

with a full tank of gas.

BST wheels and a front end upgrade will be next.

No BST wheels specifically for the 690, so I'll make BST wheels from

another bike work.