Spark Plugs

Take the tank off and their right there easily accessible

I just removed checked and inspected my 2013 690 duke plugs. No tank removal required just the small black cover (1 screw) then 2 connectors and 2 the screws that hold the plug assembly to the motor. Its easier to pull each plug holder out of the assembly first then pull the assembly. I also lube up all rubber parts with a little rubber safe grease for ease of installation. The plugs are different from the in to the out. In is iridium out is standard. I put a little anti seize on the plug threads for re-install. Then a little grease on the assembly and screw it in then you can put it each of the plug holders in, 2 connectors and the cover and you are done.

Many thanks bill.. Never really looked into it as yet,... duke has only covered 4,000 miles. Nice to know that tank doesn't need to come off though.. "So" Easy Access to plugs, air filter, oil filters, and no fairing to remove for engine work... Makes you wonder how KTM can justify their service prices!!

Spark Plug cost

breck said:

Many thanks bill.. Never really looked into it as yet,... duke has only covered 4,000 miles. Nice to know that tank doesn't need to come off though.. "So" Easy Access to plugs, air filter, oil filters, and no fairing to remove for engine work... Makes you wonder how KTM can justify their service prices!!

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Why are the spark plugs $75 total for both? That would be price gouging if this were a Ferrari. Quite shocking actually. The reason why I ask is that KTM rebrands an NGK spark plug and charges $45 when the generic plug is available at any auto parts store for $7. The part is NGK LMAR7A-9.

I was trying to find both model numbers so I could jot them down in the owners manual. Does anyone have the NGK numbers for both inside and outside plugs handy? Also, whats the reason for going iridium on one and normal electrode on the other? Seems to me if you run both iridium its just better quality spark?

These are the part numbers from the book. No clue why they are different plugs but I will keep mine stock. 69139093000 SPARK PLUG NGK "LMAR7A-9" & 60139093000 SPARK PLUG M12X1,25 "8"

billp91311 said:

These are the part numbers from the book. No clue why they are different plugs but I will keep mine stock. 69139093000 SPARK PLUG NGK "LMAR7A-9" & 60139093000 SPARK PLUG M12X1,25 "8"

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:turned: Must have missed those numbers when I was reading through the book. I was thumbing through the booklet on the way home after picking up the bike...

Thanks!

billp91311 said:

These are the part numbers from the book. No clue why they are different plugs but I will keep mine stock. 69139093000 SPARK PLUG NGK "LMAR7A-9" & 60139093000 SPARK PLUG M12X1,25 "8"

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Curious why you would spend $45 for the KTM provided version of the NGK LMAR7A-9 when you can buy the same plug at autozone for $7. I would think, but don't know for certain, that they would be identical...???

Does anyone know the NGK part number for the other plug? I've seen two separate references.

billp91311 said:

I put a little anti seize on the plug threads for re-install.

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Remember to reduce the torque value by 25% when using anti seize on parts with dry spec'd torque values. Maybe even less when going in to aluminum parts. Otherwise you are at serious risk for over torquing and possibly damaging the threads.


j

Schnellie, do you really know how much torque you put on a plug? Can you really calculate 25% of your torque value?

I keep all threads dry (or try to) so that oily grit that cannot be blown out by compressed air does not collect down in the recess. But these plugs don't fit into recesses like usual multi cyl head set ups.

Not sure if you are being sarastic Boldor...

When I screw in my spark plugs I use a torque wrench. I don't use any lubrication on the plug personally and I do use the recommended torque value.

I wanted to point out that if you add lube to the mix, adjust your torque to match - especially into a hole of softer material.


j

The guy I get my tools from says 30% reduction when lubed. So 25 sounds about right also.

Not really sarcky, Schnell, more "huh?".

I just swizzle the plug in with tightest-finger-torque on the plug socket and then give it a small nip-up with the socket-driver. I would have never thought to use a torque wrench. I don't think my torque wrench can be set that sensitively.

I guess each of us do what we have come to learn. Seeing how we do things differently is mostly the reason I read posts on this forum.

That is why I come here too Boldor, to learn! Also for the Australian humour.

I think all the concern for torque stems from my German heritage. I find supreme satisfaction in knowing all my bolts are torqued to spec.

Back to spark plugs: why wouldn't you buy the NGK ones? My manual just lists NGK part numbers, no KTM numbers. What am I missing?


j

schnellschnell said:

That is why I come here too Boldor, to learn! Also for the Australian humour.

I think all the concern for torque stems from my German heritage. I find supreme satisfaction in knowing all my bolts are torqued to spec.

Back to spark plugs: why wouldn't you buy the NGK ones? My manual just lists NGK part numbers, no KTM numbers. What am I missing?


j

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Do you have an NGK part number for both plugs? I can't find one for the iridium model and want to have them on hand when I order replacements. Thanks.

I don't have my manual with me at the moment. I'll check when I get back home.


j

are these the right ones ?
NGK LMAR7A-9 4908 Standard Plug
NGK LKAR8BI9 60139093000