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What happens when $50 buck Rottweiler fuel dongles get put on a stock bike? So many various reports of SAS removal, de-cat, mapping, commanders, this exhaust that exhaust ... it gets exhausting!
Having "been there - done that" to so many bikes in the past I decided to keep this bike as stock as possible, aside from a K&N air filter and lithium battery.

Goal was to improve low speed tractability and maybe keep the heat down some.
Used a well travelled loop for the test. 10 miles of 50-55 mph followed by 4 miles of super slow 24 mph slugging thru a pedestrian flush tourist zone. In 10 miles the bike has pretty much reached heat saturation, oil temp is normally 197-200F on an ambient 80F day. The 4 miles of slow going is done in 3rd gear with cruise set to 24 mph. The SDGT hates this, it behaves but oil temp climbs 10 degrees to 207F.

Today it is 80-81F. Install fuel dongles, disconnecting O2 sensors. The 10 mile ride gets oil temp to 181F ... considerably cooler. Slow 3rd gear slog and oil temp is 193F, better than 10F cooler.

Bike now has impossibly smooth throttle action - and I thot it couldn't be better. The 3rd gear C.C. slow-mo has gone so smooth that the mild chain snatch that you get at that speed has disappeared. Slow going in 2nd gear (walking speed) is so nice now in traffic it is not needed to go to 1st. Going home with CC at 55mph in 5th (below 4 grand) there was no bucking, very smooth.

Results are in and I would recommend it to everyone with a stock set up ... fuel consumption it presently 37 for me .. will be back with numbers when available. Seemed to be less heat at my leg but this can't be qualified as my shins have not been properly calibrated. Best $50 bucks spent.
 

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Good report @Spartacus It's a nice feeling in your chest when something simple really works isn't it?
 

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The more I read about the fuel dongles, the better I like 'em. I'm not looking to make this thing faster, it's got plenty of ooomph. But smoothing out the low-speed fueling and lowering the oil temp? $50 is a bargain.
 

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What happens when $50 buck Rottweiler fuel dongles get put on a stock bike? So many various reports of SAS removal, de-cat, mapping, commanders, this exhaust that exhaust ... it gets exhausting!
Having "been there - done that" to so many bikes in the past I decided to keep this bike as stock as possible, aside from a K&N air filter and lithium battery.

Goal was to improve low speed tractability and maybe keep the heat down some.
Used a well travelled loop for the test. 10 miles of 50-55 mph followed by 4 miles of super slow 24 mph slugging thru a pedestrian flush tourist zone. In 10 miles the bike has pretty much reached heat saturation, oil temp is normally 197-200F on an ambient 80F day. The 4 miles of slow going is done in 3rd gear with cruise set to 24 mph. The SDGT hates this, it behaves but oil temp climbs 10 degrees to 207F.

Today it is 80-81F. Install fuel dongles, disconnecting O2 sensors. The 10 mile ride gets oil temp to 181F ... considerably cooler. Slow 3rd gear slog and oil temp is 193F, better than 10F cooler.

Bike now has impossibly smooth throttle action - and I thot it couldn't be better. The 3rd gear C.C. slow-mo has gone so smooth that the mild chain snatch that you get at that speed has disappeared. Slow going in 2nd gear (walking speed) is so nice now in traffic it is not needed to go to 1st. Going home with CC at 55mph in 5th (below 4 grand) there was no bucking, very smooth.

Results are in and I would recommend it to everyone with a stock set up ... fuel consumption it presently 37 for me .. will be back with numbers when available. Seemed to be less heat at my leg but this can't be qualified as my shins have not been properly calibrated. Best $50 bucks spent.
That's great news on the improved smoothness!!! Having also been through heavily modding my previous KTM (albeit KTM powerparts - full AKRA race kit), I'm going to be more selective on my new SDR.

Keep us posted on the temperature observations as your "shins become claibrated":grin2: - curious if it remains cooler with the dongles...
 

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I just ordered a pair. If I had them on there earlier, maybe the exhaust servo wouldn't have fried and I wouldn't have that dongle.
 

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Good on you for documenting the changes. I put the dongles on last year and your data matches my subjective impressions exactly.

Now, if you would be so kind as to evaluate this for us: https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/boosterplug-ktm-1290-504p.html
Hey @Chip there is a whole thread here - link below.

https://www.ktmforums.com/forums/duke/124506-booster-plug-installed.html

My SDGT is standard other than a slip on for aesthetics. The booster plug made all the same changes @Spartacus mentioned to my bike when I added it last October. Quite a few reviews and comments here.
 

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Hey @Chip there is a whole thread here - link below.

https://www.ktmforums.com/forums/duke/124506-booster-plug-installed.html

My SDGT is standard other than a slip on for aesthetics. The booster plug made all the same changes @Spartacus mentioned to my bike when I added it last October. Quite a few reviews and comments here.
Thanks for posting AusPete - I skimmed quickly but not the entire thread - did kevxtx test this or provide his feedback?

I've also reached out to booster plug to ask what makes their product superior to "dongles"...will share if I hear back..
 

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Thanks for posting AusPete - I skimmed quickly but not the entire thread - did kevxtx test this or provide his feedback?

I've also reached out to booster plug to ask what makes their product superior to "dongles"...will share if I hear back..
I'd be willing to bet that Rottweiler 02 "dongles" are the same thing as "booster plugs"
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Began to check out the booster plug thread, no expert here but it does seem to do the same as the dongle?
Absolutely certain that the heat blowing on your right shin is approximately cut in half. Oil temp now is mostly 185-191F ... with a low of 177F (previously never seen).
Lowering running temps can only increase the life of engine components - heat is the enemy. Oil is after all a coolant first and lubricant second.
With the dongle working to 5500 RPM (then the secondary takes over) this suggests that 85% of your time riding is with dongle. (maybe half the time for AusPete?)

If the next guy that gets his dongle would do us a favor before starting? Should have aimed my lazer temp thermometer at the exhaust headers and the fan exhaust of an already warmed up engine. Then do the dongle swap.
I'm wondering if lower header temps might help the lifespan of that rear shock a few inches down-wind from the heat stream? A small patch of header insulation exists there now so there must be a concern?
 

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If I've read the sites correctly, the dongle and the booster plug are different animals. The dongles plug into the O2 sensor pickups and maintain a steady signal, and thus fueling, instead of the ECU changing the signal and fueling constantly. Per Rottweiler this affects the fueling at low throttle inputs below 5500 rpm. The booster plug attaches to the air temp circuit and should affect the fueling at larger throttle openings across the rev range. I have a similar set up on the 690 Duke; one dongle for the O2 sensor and one for the air temp. On the 690, the fellow (kevxtx) who makes them warns not to use the air temp plug if you still have the cat converter.
 

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the rotty dongles are the same as the pcV dongles
2 things, firstly they keep the circuit active so it doesnt throw an error.
2nd it makes the ecu use the base map for the o2 closed loop and adds a little fuel on top of the base o2 map, so all the trim signals that use the lambda are zero..

When you give the bike throttle it goes to acceleration map. I dont believe that the motor is running an o2 map and it switches over under load in higher revs. Its better to swap maps over earlier.I think if you gun it from idle your straight into acc map.

So its all part throttle cruise, but as soon as you stick it it swaps to the acceleration map.

The fuel mod or booster plug can be a simpler or more complex unit that tricks the air temp sensor circuit to think its cooler air so ecu add fuel accross the board, during all situations where the air temp sensor is working , which is all the time.

I would have thought kev did a o2 mod for the big bikes as with his mod the lambda is still active.

I could be wrong about those details.

maybe @kevxtx drops in
 

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If I've read the sites correctly, the dongle and the booster plug are different animals. The dongles plug into the O2 sensor pickups and maintain a steady signal, and thus fueling, instead of the ECU changing the signal and fueling constantly. Per Rottweiler this affects the fueling at low throttle inputs below 5500 rpm. The booster plug attaches to the air temp circuit and should affect the fueling at larger throttle openings across the rev range. I have a similar set up on the 690 Duke; one dongle for the O2 sensor and one for the air temp. On the 690, the fellow (kevxtx) who makes them warns not to use the air temp plug if you still have the cat converter.

Good info. I will not decat at least until the warranty's up, nor will I substitute the Rotty bungs for the O2 sensors until then, so they can be plugged back in when it goes in for service under warranty.
 

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Keep in mind if you run the O2 dongles you should get some plugs and remove the O2 sensors all together.......they will get ruined eventually if left in the exhaust with no power going to them (i.e non operational).

:)
 

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If I've read the sites correctly, the dongle and the booster plug are different animals. The dongles plug into the O2 sensor pickups and maintain a steady signal, and thus fueling, instead of the ECU changing the signal and fueling constantly. Per Rottweiler this affects the fueling at low throttle inputs below 5500 rpm. The booster plug attaches to the air temp circuit and should affect the fueling at larger throttle openings across the rev range. I have a similar set up on the 690 Duke; one dongle for the O2 sensor and one for the air temp. On the 690, the fellow (kevxtx) who makes them warns not to use the air temp plug if you still have the cat converter.
You are correct these are different animals - a lot of good info in the booster plug FAQ - would love to hear GT/SDR testimonials.
 

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Keep in mind if you run the O2 dongles you should get some plugs and remove the O2 sensors all together.......they will get ruined eventually if left in the exhaust with no power going to them (i.e non operational).

:)

Hadn't heard that before, either. Easy enough to slip them back in when it goes to the dealer. I have about 3K miles to go before next service and will do more than half of that in April.
 

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The more I read about the fuel dongles, the better I like 'em. I'm not looking to make this thing faster, it's got plenty of ooomph. But smoothing out the low-speed fueling and lowering the oil temp? $50 is a bargain.
That's why I left them installed even though I have the Akra flash. I could be off in my logic, but since it's a street legal flash, I'm hoping to get the low end smooth as silk. I'll ride this weekend and report back.
 

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Is it necessary to remove the tank to install the fuel dongles?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
It is necessary for the SD GT to get at the connection for the rear sensor plug. It looked tantalizingly close but I couldn't quite manage it.
 
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