[Sean_K]

Sean, you definitely need a stiffer spring to get the shock into its correct stroke range. It will also raise ride height which will make the bike more responsive. Getting an adjustable length shock or link plates can get your more height / more responsiveness. Start with the right spring. Probably 95 or 100Nm.

I’ll start with the spring, thanks for the advice.


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[Sean_K]

The linkage system helps the bike handle better due to the increased ride height, it tips in and turns faster, by quite some margin the higher you go. Too high and it's unrideable.
However, you have to able to take advantage of that by being a competent rider or racer. It's not for the commuter or cruiser types, the stock height suits the average rider. Obviously, lots of riders won't bother changing anything and will still have all the fun they need or want.

Thanks Ed. Im a seasoned spirited rider but not racing so we’ll start with a heavier spring.

 

[GJB]

Motion Pro makes a great spring compressor if you want to do it yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0608-Spring-Compressor/dp/B01B3I4FTO/ref=sr_1_5?crid=U59VC0YHLNF9&keywords=motion+pro+spring+compressor&qid=1675229839&sprefix=motion+pro+spring+compressor%2Caps%2C525&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

 

[Somefun]

Even though it's summer here in NZ, the riding conditions in the area I live have been grim, wet wet wet. So much in fact that the roads are literally falling away and I'm not exaggerating.
Before xmas I fitted the link, with a 20mm increase in ride height and, like you, felt a huge difference (obviously ... that increase is radical !! ). The bike is now super nimble although I nearly lost the front on a very tight, twisty corner getting too cocky for the road, but also partly because of a worn front tyre. However, apart from that, for me, the benefit was enormous. I had found the SDR to be a bit cumbersome prior to that. My next mission is racing it in an annual Sound of Thunder meeting so I've now fitted the race filter, 65% quick throttle and braketech rotors with gearing for the road at 525 16/40. For the track I'm going to Erics recommendation of 15/41 520. I've got the full Akra and Nitron cartridges. I also just changed the spring rate on the Nitrons which was very easy to do. I'll post some before and after pics when she's all ready for the track.

Nice sounds like you’re on the right track! Lets us know that you think. It’s going to be -2 this weekend so it’s going to be a while for me to get back out and ride again.

 

[DaveNZ]

Even though it's summer here in NZ, the riding conditions in the area I live have been grim, wet wet wet. So much in fact that the roads are literally falling away and I'm not exaggerating.
Before xmas I fitted the link, with a 20mm increase in ride height and, like you, felt a huge difference (obviously ... that increase is radical !! ). The bike is now super nimble although I nearly lost the front on a very tight, twisty corner getting too cocky for the road, but also partly because of a worn front tyre. However, apart from that, for me, the benefit was enormous. I had found the SDR to be a bit cumbersome prior to that. My next mission is racing it in an annual Sound of Thunder meeting so I've now fitted the race filter, 65% quick throttle and braketech rotors with gearing for the road at 525 16/40. For the track I'm going to Erics recommendation of 15/41 520. I've got the full Akra and Nitron cartridges. I also just changed the spring rate on the Nitrons which was very easy to do. I'll post some before and after pics when she's all ready for the track.

We been lucky in Taranaki Ed, we have missed all the rain, just getting a few hours here and there. We topped the sun light hours again last year. Weird the way the weather is playing out. Who would have thought Taranaki the sunniest place in NZ for 3 of the last ten years. Hey your bike's getting close to race prepped, looking forward to maybe seeing it on track.

 

[KiwiEd]

We been lucky in Taranaki Ed, we have missed all the rain, just getting a few hours here and there. We topped the sun light hours again last year. Weird the way the weather is playing out. Who would have thought Taranaki the sunniest place in NZ for 3 of the last ten years. Hey your bike's getting close to race prepped, looking forward to maybe seeing it on track.

Yes Dave, my sis lives in Wanganui and from what was a cold, wet hole 50+ years ago (lol, well, that's what I was told) it's now sunny and warm. This last 12 months here in the Coromandel have been insanely wet, the summer has been ridiculous. The roads are literally destroyed, two main routes out closed indefinitely, the others being closed each day with new slips. Our famous Coro Loop will be out of action for a long time

 

[KiwiEd]

Nice sounds like you’re on the right track! Lets us know that you think. It’s going to be -2 this weekend so it’s going to be a while for me to get back out and ride again.

LOL, -2 brrr I guess you get used to that. I have to admit I'm pretty soft as regards the cold, here are some pics from where I live, it's a 5-minute walk from home. Sadly, it's been more rain than sun this summer.

 

[GJB]

Beautiful part of the world! I have toured the Southern Island but not the North. My wife wants to go back and spend several months

 

[KiwiEd]

Beautiful part of the world! I have toured the Southern Island but not the North. My wife wants to go back and spend several months

Nice man, it's the South Island that's had the best weather this summer. Hopefully it stays for another month as the SOT meeting I'm going to with the SD is in Christchurch.

 

[Grizz]

Grizz, no need to remove the tank to remove the shock. The SDR shock is incredibly easy to remove. Remove top shock bolt, remove bottom shock bolt, out comes the shock. The top bolt has a strange system. There is a left hand thread on the right side that must be loosened to remove the bolt on the left side. Both need to be tightened when reinstalling. There is no mention of how to do this in the manual

The problem isn’t getting the Shock out on the EVO the problem the electrical wiring for the Semi active suspension connection is located above the rear cylinder. I tried fishing my finger up to pull it down but it was zipped tied to something. No worries though. I look at it like practice. I’m going to have to remove the tank for air filter service. So the first times are a little time consuming but once you get it down it’s not something to stop you from working on it.

 

[KiwiEd]

The problem isn’t getting the Shock out on the EVO the problem the electrical wiring for the Semi active suspension connection is located above the rear cylinder. I tried fishing my finger up to pull it down but it was zipped tied to something. No worries though. I look at it like practice. I’m going to have to remove the tank for air filter service. So the first times are a little time consuming but once you get it down it’s not something to stop you from working on it.

I took the tank off mine a few weeks ago, it's not difficult, surprisingly easy. Some tanks, like on my ZX10RR, have horrible fuel line plugs to undo. The SDR's are simple.

 

[Grizz]

So it was 41 degrees F (5 degrees C) this afternoon not to much wind but I have decent riding gear so I got my SAS rear wheel on and the fired up both bikes.

No system malfunctions so I guess I actually put back together correctly. Took the SDR EVO out first, 16 x 38 sprocket and GoGo’s 20 degree link . I reset the preload down to low. The stroke relative to input is now very close to being right.

As far as new shock spring itself
105 nm) It is pretty much spot on for my weight 270 lbs, (122.47 KG) For road use its fine . If I was tracking it I would probably go to a 110.

The 20 mm link does make the bike super nimble. You think it goes. I have a HyperPro RCS damper , which for me is a must have or similar upgrade over the stock damper.

The 16 x38 sprocket set pushed the wheel back 3.4 mm or so. This works out well . You could get more aggressive and put a 40 on rear sprocket, but for me for street riding it is a good set up.

Took the SAS out for a jaunt as well. The SAS’s new shock rate spring (200 mm a 200 nm ) worked out for the SAS as well. Cut down on the wallowing induced by undulation of surface in a turn.

Riding to two bike is like night and day. The SAS is smooth and comfortable. The SDR EVO is so nimble, it really kind of insane. Bottom line I’d if your pushing 200 lbs. changing the rear monopod shock spring is now a must. It make a very significant difference.


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[KiwiEd]

So it was 41 degrees F (5 degrees C) this afternoon not to much wind but I have decent riding gear so I got my SAS rear wheel on and the fired up both bikes.

No system malfunctions so I guess I actually put back together correctly. Took the SDR EVO out first, 16 x 38 sprocket and GoGo’s 20 degree link . I reset the preload down to low. The stroke relative to input is now very close to being right.

As far as new shock spring itself
105 nm) It is pretty much spot on for my weight 270 lbs, (122.47 KG) For road use its fine . If I was tracking it I would probably go to a 110.

The 20 mm link does make the bike super nimble. You think it goes. I have a HyperPro RCS damper , which for me is a must have or similar upgrade over the stock damper.

The 16 x38 sprocket set pushed the wheel back 3.4 mm or so. This works out well . You could get more aggressive and put a 40 on rear sprocket, but for me for street riding it is a good set up.

Took the SAS out for a jaunt as well. The SAS’s new shock rate spring (200 mm a 200 nm ) worked out for the SAS as well. Cut down on the wallowing induced by undulation of surface in a turn.

Riding to two bike is like night and day. The SAS is smooth and comfortable. The SDR EVO is so nimble, it really kind of insane. Bottom line I’d if your pushing 200 lbs. changing the rear monopod shock spring is now a must. It make a very significant difference.


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I have the 16/40 for road and I find it better. I can actually use the gears like I feel you should on a big twin ie 3 and 4 for tight stuff instead of 2 and 3. Getting 6 is even doable now lol

 

[Super Dukie]

Grizz, you mentioned setting the preload to "low". Did you measure laden sag?
Is there a reason you chose one of the automatic preload settings aka low, instead of using the 11 preset preload settings of 0% -100% (every 10% settings)?
For my weight I found KTM's recommendations were accurate, 220lb rider, 40% preload setting netted 41.5 laden sag, probably better to go 50% which would be about 39mm. My rider load/weight changes very little so I chose not to use an automatic preload setting. If back and forth between solo and 2-up it would for sure make sense.
In reference to the automatic preload settings the owner's manual states "the spring preload is automatically adjusted to the load detected by the system during the journey."
The question I would like answered is how often the automatic preload setting adjusts the preload and under what conditions? Curious if it addresses squat during acceleration etc.?

 

[Twiggy]

So the 18/38T set is that with the 116 chain.

 

[Twiggy]

sorry 16/38T

 

[KiwiEd]

sorry 16/38T

No, that would be the stock 112. Only when you get up to a big sprocket like a 41 do you need to extend the swingarm length back to what it should be or else a whole world of problems start happening.
For example, 3 weeks ago I changed the gearing on my R1 track bike from 16/47 to 16/48. First thing I noticed, at the track, was it was now very hard to get my warmer on past the tyre and s/arm.
Duh, should have checked that.
Second, coming into a very hard braking zone from high speed, the front end started shuddering really,really badly ... I had to release the brakes, ran wide, nearly crashed.
TBH, stupidly, I never linked that to what was now a shorter swing arm. The action of extreme braking also shortens the wheelbase as the front is compressed.
I fidddled with compression and preloads but never fixed the issue, I just had to brake less aggressively, which sucked. My R1 is an 07 model, has 189RWHP, lots of mods but it's still old technology and up against the later models with TC etc I can't get excit speed without risking a highside like they can, so late braking is sort of my last bastion.
After I got home and started thinking about it the penny dropped ... duh (again)
A few extra links in the chain will fix the issue.

 

[Twiggy]

Thank you.

 

[Lowrance]

I 2nd this. I've had mine for 4 years and have removed and installed many springs with it. Had to get creative with the Gen3 stock shock(had to add a couple of link plates) but made it work. By far best bang for the buck out there!

Motion Pro makes a great spring compressor if you want to do it yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0608-Spring-Compressor/dp/B01B3I4FTO/ref=sr_1_5?crid=U59VC0YHLNF9&keywords=motion+pro+spring+compressor&qid=1675229839&sprefix=motion+pro+spring+compressor%2Caps%2C525&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

 

[Grizz]

Grizz, you mentioned setting the preload to "low". Did you measure laden sag?
Is there a reason you chose one of the automatic preload settings aka low, instead of using the 11 preset preload settings of 0% -100% (every 10% settings)?
For my weight I found KTM's recommendations were accurate, 220lb rider, 40% preload setting netted 41.5 laden sag, probably better to go 50% which would be about 39mm. My rider load/weight changes very little so I chose not to use an automatic preload setting. If back and forth between solo and 2-up it would for sure make sense.
In reference to the automatic preload settings the owner's manual states "the spring preload is automatically adjusted to the load detected by the system during the journey."
The question I would like answered is how often the automatic preload setting adjusts the preload and under what conditions? Curious if it addresses squat during acceleration etc.?

Basically, after I put on the new rear shock spring , I wanted to get a feel for the stiffness of the suspension in low. In low, the preload for the rear shock will be at its lowest level. Thus, the spring will have a minimal amount of preload. Not that it is optimal for my weight, but it gives you a feel for shock stiffness at very low preload settings. Just remember that the more you preload, the shorter the stroke that is left. Also the dampening is the real magic and there are set responses into increasing or decreasing dampening depending on throttle and braking positions over time to help determine your riding style your in and a host of other variables such a s surface smoothness.

I can tell you from experience with riding a 2018 BMW S1000 RR at California Super Bike school that all the autoleveling preloading in the world can not make up for an overpowered spring. Every time I would hard break into a turn, the front forks would bottom out. Their dynamic suspension pro was basically doing the same thing auto leveling pre load on the KTM system is doing. From there, then dampening based upon your task selection, street, sport, track. Etc.

The real beauty off the EVO is for street riding, the sensors an inputs when in Auto mode, select dampening based upon multiples of variable that select the best suspension response, dampening. Dampening is controlled by magnetic valves that have only microseconds of deadly. It also adjusts MTC to increase and decrease slip values based upon live data stream. In Auto, the suspension and traction controls are more automatic than semi-automatic. Pretty crazy stuff.

In the end, though, while the dampening systems control the flow of energy, the spring is basically the storage mechanism for the bike in dealing with uneven surfaces or with weight transfer from acceleration , deceleration or changes in direction. If your spring is too weak, imparted energy is immediately moved through the bikes geometry, causing greater needs to dampen or impead mass movement. All the EVO magic is great for street riding. But not so much for the track. At the track, it is about absolute control of suspension in a controlled environment. Where you are expecting high energy transfers in acceleration, deceleration, and direction.

So, for MotoGP and racing applications, while MTC is very important, suspension setup is a variable everyone is trying to feel on the track. Hence, motogp bikes have MTC but no ABS or active or semi active suspensions. Just to many variables, and then there are individual rider input variables. Thus is why riders and their input to the engineering support group in MoroGP teams is so important. This is why I am happy Danny Pedrosa is working with KTM. Not to ride but to better work with the riders and the engineers to come up with better solutions to individual rider inputs and feedback.

This is why when I look at the system because of my shear mass, I fall so far outside the norms that the main spring rates must change. Believe me if the bikes were designed for 275 lb rider and not 170 lbs riders if all system components were basically the same spring rates would change.

I have searched high and low and finding a higher rate main spring for the front fork, just isn't there. As I say the EVO needs a minor correction, plus it has anti dive. For the SAS, the front forks are designed to allow for a lot more travel . It's an Adventure bike for God sakes. They are designed to traverse variable terrain surfaces and allow for a long stroke in the suspension. The problem is I put a 17" front tire on it, upgraded engine performance, and put on sticky sport street rubber. I really want it to handel like a tight street sport touting machine. Well, short of changing the geometry of the wheels, the semi active suspension springs and then changing all the code variables for changing dampening I really will not be able to get what I want out of the semi active suspension.

The SAS is crazy good with my monoshock upgrade, just not the razor like the SDR EVO. I could get a lot more out of the SAS but it would mean moving to something like GP cartridge forks and a WP Apex Pro rear shock. So for $3,500, it would be pretty awesome on the street and track. Not so much an adventure bike anymore. . But it is a very exciting Adventure bike. I'll take it that way. If I get a wild hair up my *** I can put on my spoked 19 x 17 rims with some knobbies, put on some off road crash bars and have at it.

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