[Grizz]

In the end, though, as fars as the EVO, Eric's (GoGo's) link on the standard EVO is the bomb it sharpens the handling to a very fine point.

Sent from my SM-T970 using Tapatalk

 

[YoDoc86]

Good night. I have a 2021 SDR, with preload at +10 at the rear and +3 at the front, I weigh 100kg with suit, helmet and boots. I'm 1'81, I'm thinking of putting the linkage +20mm, should I make some adjustment or is it just plug&play? It scares me, how can it be that by raising the bike 20mm and shortening the axles, that is, the bike will be much easier to change direction, but... it won't be easier to do a wheelie or unstable at high speeds or braking very hard? better 10 or 20mm for mixed use mountain climbs + races?

Thanks

 

[GJB]

Go for 20mm. Still plenty stable. 15 minute plug and play job

 

[YoDoc86]

But, with all the angles mods and less distance and more tall, no inestable at high speed or hard breaking? 100% 20mm??

No nees changes in my SAG or hidraulics?

 

[Panzerlang]

I picked up my 2022 Evo today, had their mech fit the 20mm plates and the handling on the way home was peachy (suspension set to auto of course...why buy a dog and bark yourself etc, lol).

 

[GJB]

The stock 1290 stock is very conservative. If you prefer a more sport like ride 20mm will do it. It is still very stable. Get an aftermarket steering damper if you want more security.

bear in mind that the linkage systems give a less progressive shock to wheel ratio, which means the spring is effectively softer than the OEM linkage as the spring compresses. This will require a stiffer spring if you are a heavier rider or ride with a passenger

 

[YoDoc86]

The stock 1290 stock is very conservative. If you prefer a more sport like ride 20mm will do it. It is still very stable. Get an aftermarket steering damper if you want more security.

bear in mind that the linkage systems give a less progressive shock to wheel ratio, which means the spring is effectively softer than the OEM linkage as the spring compresses. This will require a stiffer spring if you are a heavier rider or ride with a passenger

90kg rider.
+10 rear SAG now, need to change?
And the hudraulics....more compression probably?

Thanks.

 

[GJB]

You will be fine. I wish I was that light 😎. Just replace the links and ride it. Preload and damping settings won’t really be impacted

 

[Somefun]

I got out for a regular day and the 20 mm is perfect Bike handles amazing!

 

[R0man]

I got out for a regular day and the 20 mm is perfect Bike handles amazing!

Could you please remind me what your sprockets/chain setup is?

 

[Somefun]

Could you please remind me what your sprockets/chain setup is?

I’m running the 520 conversion with 114 link chain and a 40R. Going by Eric it should put me 5mm longer than stock.

 

[R0man]

I’m running the 520 conversion with 114 link chain and a 40R. Going by Eric it should put me 5mm longer than stock.

Got it, if my calculations are right the standard rider height seems to be 302mm, 16/40/114 accounts for 306mm, extra 20mm link brings it to +24mm.

I am with the same gear ratio, but shorter stock 112 chain, which gives me just a 1mm gain in the rider height. Still thinking 10mm vs 20mm, but probably go with the latter.

 

[spsgold]

Can someone tell me positively if I can still run the stock chain and gears with the 20mm links or will it change the length too much?
Also will it still allow me any room for chain adjustment when the chain starts to wear??

 

[R0man]

Can someone tell me positively if I can sill run the stock chain and gears with the 20mm or will it change the length too much?
Also will it still allow me any room for chain adjustment when the chain starts to wear??

Whether you install a link or not has nothing to do with the swingarm length and gearing.

 

[spsgold]

Thanks for the response, so is there any need to loosen the chain adjuster to create "slack" before installing the links, or just remove the old ones and install the new ones?

 

[R0man]

Thanks for the response, so is there any need to loosen the chain adjuster to create "slack" before installing the links, or just remove the old ones and install the new ones?

Sorry, thinking more about this I think I might be wrong. Let me research more.

 

[spsgold]

Can anyone who's already installed these please chime in on my above questions, Thanks!

 

[R0man]

Thanks for the response, so is there any need to loosen the chain adjuster to create "slack" before installing the links, or just remove the old ones and install the new ones?

My final answer - gearing does not depend on the rider height, but rider height depends on gearing. Nothing should prevent you from installing 20mm with stock sprockets and chain.

Here is an installation video -

. It's for the linkage kit but the first part applies as well.

 

[AMTSDREVO]

Basically, after I put on the new rear shock spring , I wanted to get a feel for the stiffness of the suspension in low. In low, the preload for the rear shock will be at its lowest level. Thus, the spring will have a minimal amount of preload. Not that it is optimal for my weight, but it gives you a feel for shock stiffness at very low preload settings. Just remember that the more you preload, the shorter the stroke that is left. Also the dampening is the real magic and there are set responses into increasing or decreasing dampening depending on throttle and braking positions over time to help determine your riding style your in and a host of other variables such a s surface smoothness.

I can tell you from experience with riding a 2018 BMW S1000 RR at California Super Bike school that all the autoleveling preloading in the world can not make up for an overpowered spring. Every time I would hard break into a turn, the front forks would bottom out. Their dynamic suspension pro was basically doing the same thing auto leveling pre load on the KTM system is doing. From there, then dampening based upon your task selection, street, sport, track. Etc.

The real beauty off the EVO is for street riding, the sensors an inputs when in Auto mode, select dampening based upon multiples of variable that select the best suspension response, dampening. Dampening is controlled by magnetic valves that have only microseconds of deadly. It also adjusts MTC to increase and decrease slip values based upon live data stream. In Auto, the suspension and traction controls are more automatic than semi-automatic. Pretty crazy stuff.

In the end, though, while the dampening systems control the flow of energy, the spring is basically the storage mechanism for the bike in dealing with uneven surfaces or with weight transfer from acceleration , deceleration or changes in direction. If your spring is too weak, imparted energy is immediately moved through the bikes geometry, causing greater needs to dampen or impead mass movement. All the EVO magic is great for street riding. But not so much for the track. At the track, it is about absolute control of suspension in a controlled environment. Where you are expecting high energy transfers in acceleration, deceleration, and direction.

So, for MotoGP and racing applications, while MTC is very important, suspension setup is a variable everyone is trying to feel on the track. Hence, motogp bikes have MTC but no ABS or active or semi active suspensions. Just to many variables, and then there are individual rider input variables. Thus is why riders and their input to the engineering support group in MoroGP teams is so important. This is why I am happy Danny Pedrosa is working with KTM. Not to ride but to better work with the riders and the engineers to come up with better solutions to individual rider inputs and feedback.

This is why when I look at the system because of my shear mass, I fall so far outside the norms that the main spring rates must change. Believe me if the bikes were designed for 275 lb rider and not 170 lbs riders if all system components were basically the same spring rates would change.

I have searched high and low and finding a higher rate main spring for the front fork, just isn't there. As I say the EVO needs a minor correction, plus it has anti dive. For the SAS, the front forks are designed to allow for a lot more travel . It's an Adventure bike for God sakes. They are designed to traverse variable terrain surfaces and allow for a long stroke in the suspension. The problem is I put a 17" front tire on it, upgraded engine performance, and put on sticky sport street rubber. I really want it to handel like a tight street sport touting machine. Well, short of changing the geometry of the wheels, the semi active suspension springs and then changing all the code variables for changing dampening I really will not be able to get what I want out of the semi active suspension.

The SAS is crazy good with my monoshock upgrade, just not the razor like the SDR EVO. I could get a lot more out of the SAS but it would mean moving to something like GP cartridge forks and a WP Apex Pro rear shock. So for $3,500, it would be pretty awesome on the street and track. Not so much an adventure bike anymore. . But it is a very exciting Adventure bike. I'll take it that way. If I get a wild hair up my *** I can put on my spoked 19 x 17 rims with some knobbies, put on some off road crash bars and have at it.

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Can you please explain how you were able to change the rear spring on the SDR Evo and still have the semi-active suspension work correctly? What brand of spring did you go with? Were there any recalibrations necessary?

 

[Mog1290r]

Thanks for the response, so is there any need to loosen the chain adjuster to create "slack" before installing the links, or just remove the old ones and install the new ones?

Depends how tight your chain is ,, I slackened mine off when i fitted the + 20 and then adjusted it back up after ,it took 1 minute extra .
So for now ,230lb by the way ,,I set my suspension to factory track settings just for a ball park figure until i can tweek it at aragon next month ... and jesus the gogo + 20 is a massive difference...first round-a-bout i came to the bike tipped in so fast i took my foot off the peg because it felt like the rear end was sliding away ,pullled over to see if i'd messed up but all was good ,,,did a further 70 miles and by the time i got home I'd gotten used to it ....but i only got this link because i noticed on track it was running wide ,,,,I never pushed it that hard on the road , i don't know if you'd want it tipping in that quick for average road riding