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So after a lengthy search, I have found some instructions for getting the tank off of a 2017 GT. I'm trying to install the rottweiler fuel dongles and a power commander on my 19 GT and some of the instructions dont seem to match my bike. Anyone have any idea how to get this tank off?
 

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Not difficult, just fiddly, especially initial removal and re-installation. Remove fuel supply line and crossover and a couple of electrical connections along with 2 bolts on the rear and two on the sides (one each side). Wiggle the tank rearward and it will reluctantly come off. Don't do this with 6 gallons inside unless you're Ahnold Svartzenegger.
 

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Once you get the tank off there will be two black spacers from the screws on either side of the tank. Leave those off when you reinstall the tank. After the tank is on the bike then slide those spacers back in place. Best,

Doc
 

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Once you get the tank off there will be two black spacers from the screws on either side of the tank. Leave those off when you reinstall the tank. After the tank is on the bike then slide those spacers back in place. Best,

Doc
Good tip. Doc.
 

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G'day @Scotlings8 ,

Tank removal on the SDGT is totally different to the SDR and not completely intuitive.......

There is a very good procedure on the www.boosterplug.com page that was posted by one of their customers.

The fuel cap shroud is difficult to remove as it is so tight it feels like it might break, so I carefully unscrew the cap, but it can be wrenched off...... just feels wrong doing it...... Drain and vent hoses need to be disconnected. (don't drop the cap if you do this.... it may break one of the vent nipples..... and it's a $700 cap assembly..... don't ask how I know).

The tank side spoilers and grey covers below the tank also need to come away..... they will separate but are tight when new.... I took them off still joined at the swivel as I was concerned they could crack, but now I just press them apart and leave the front covers in place.

As the others mentioned, turn two fuel taps off, unplug the connector and fuel line on the left underside, and disconnect the fuel balance hose both sides, unplug the electrical connector (fuel gauge?) on the RHS and remove 4 bolts. Tank should be loose now and ready for the last struggle........ so less than 5ltrs of fuel inside is a must....... but some gentle wiggling and hushed cursing should find the angle at which it lets go easily and it's off......... it's a bitch 1st time - so have a read of that boosterplug installation procedure to be real sure we have given you the full story - I used it 1st time through and it was great! (with pics toooo :D)......

Aha.... found it on the other forum....... Good luck with re-install..... best idea is to leave the metal clips off until the tank is seated, then slip them into place so the lower tank mount bolts will screw in...... to much of a struggle to keep them in position while wrestling with the wide tank - oh, and be sure not to pinch the fuel breather hose to the tank cap..... i did that once and the vacuum it creates causes a big 'suck' noise when you unlock the filler cap for refueling ;).
 

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Dave. Thanks so much for the excellent description. I ended up taking it to ktm. I find I have less and less time to try to figure this stuff out. Maybe I'll check this out when I have to change the air filter.
 

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G'day @Scotlings8 ,

Tank removal on the SDGT is totally different to the SDR and not completely intuitive.......

There is a very good procedure on the www.boosterplug.com page that was posted by one of their customers.

The fuel cap shroud is difficult to remove as it is so tight it feels like it might break, so I carefully unscrew the cap, but it can be wrenched off...... just feels wrong doing it...... Drain and vent hoses need to be disconnected. (don't drop the cap if you do this.... it may break one of the vent nipples..... and it's a $700 cap assembly..... don't ask how I know).

The tank side spoilers and grey covers below the tank also need to come away..... they will separate but are tight when new.... I took them off still joined at the swivel as I was concerned they could crack, but now I just press them apart and leave the front covers in place.

As the others mentioned, turn two fuel taps off, unplug the connector and fuel line on the left underside, and disconnect the fuel balance hose both sides, unplug the electrical connector (fuel gauge?) on the RHS and remove 4 bolts. Tank should be loose now and ready for the last struggle........ so less than 5ltrs of fuel inside is a must....... but some gentle wiggling and hushed cursing should find the angle at which it lets go easily and it's off......... it's a bitch 1st time - so have a read of that boosterplug installation procedure to be real sure we have given you the full story - I used it 1st time through and it was great! (with pics toooo :D)......

Aha.... found it on the other forum....... Good luck with re-install..... best idea is to leave the metal clips off until the tank is seated, then slip them into place so the lower tank mount bolts will screw in...... to much of a struggle to keep them in position while wrestling with the wide tank - oh, and be sure not to pinch the fuel breather hose to the tank cap..... i did that once and the vacuum it creates causes a big 'suck' noise when you unlock the filler cap for refueling ;).
Dave, I'll add another thank you to the pile for taking the time to write that out so well. My tank is coming off this weekend so your timing was impeccable. Cheers!
 

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Dave. Thanks so much for the excellent description. I ended up taking it to ktm. I find I have less and less time to try to figure this stuff out. Maybe I'll check this out when I have to change the air filter.
Cheers mate, reading your OP again I realized you had a 19..... and already had the 17 instructions...... oh well, I was close :LOL:....... but the critter is still the same, so most of it would be relevant...... with just some different shaped body parts, like the tank spoiler indicator panels.

I wonder about the O2 removal dongles....... I have a set, and was trialing them again recently after using them 12 months ago on the oem 17 software (didn't like them at the time - bike felt fat in the fueling, and lost economy/range). They were ok with the 19 software I have on my 17GT since June 2019...... but still lost fuel range.

Recently I was reminded of the Booster Plug module on another forum (Super Twins) and when I contacted the FI specialist at Booster Plug he sent me some info - they say that the O2 removal dongles make the ECU run at full rich settings for all rpm's, and this wastes fuel. The GT has good fueling, it just has E4 mapping for it's sub 5000rpm range which can make it feel hot while new and tight. If you twist the wrist and/or keep the revs up it will run cool.

His articles made sense in that why would anybody remove the O2 sensors and deny the ECU the data it needs to tune the med-high rpm closed loop range? Any leanish running is at idle-low rpm (open loop) and he says his Booster Plug works only in that range by tricking the ECU into thinking the air box sensor is reading 20deg cooler air temps, thereby adding 6% more fuel ....... but only at low rpm/idle ....... the med-high running is left for the ECU to control using the readings from the O2 sensors in the exhaust headers, and it is already well mapped by very smart factory specialists and copes with a range of altitudes/temps/modifications like a DNA airfilter or a different muffler, maybe even a decat....... though I can't see where anyone has proven that yet.

I don't intend to ever install my O2 dongles again........ I have a Booster Plug ready to go on as soon as I can burn down my fuel load and yank the tank off (it's so hot & sweaty here and I've had a sore lower back so no riding since Xmas)........ I expect it to work as claimed - I had several email chats with Jens at B/P and he is an alright guy who flogs a 1290SAS with expertise, so he knows & likes our bikes very very well.

Have a read of his website even if you have no intention of buying a module........ it is informative and helps put some forum advice into context....... but of course, there may be a limit to exhaust/intake mods for which it's the dyno custom map route to get everything just right.

(y)

In the meantime, don't forget the gearing is very tall and a simple change can result in much smoother riding.

PS The airfilter stays clean for 30k kms (19k miles) on these things unless you ride up the back end of smokey diesel's or on dirt roads.......
 

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they say that the O2 removal dongles make the ECU run at full rich settings for all rpm's, and this wastes fuel. -Dave Au.

Somehow, mine has gone from 38.x mpg to 44.x mpg avg. on the readout since I removed mine. I was under the impression it enriches only the low-speed loop and not the higher-speed loop, and my anecdotal results seem to confirm this.
 

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Dave, interesting read. I have to agree with hammerhead though, my mileage seems to have gone up just a bit with the dongles. Not sure if the year changes make any difference. Rottweiler informed me they only richen it up to 5500 rpm, after that it's running off whatever the ecu is mapped for. I'm enjoying the smoother shifting and low speed maneuverability. I still may end up getting a full tune done. Time will tell.
 

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Hmmmm, my cons readout was hovering around the 17/18km/ltr mark on the last few rides (pre Xmas) whereas it used to consistently show 20-22km/ltr on highway runs in oem trim. Maybe at 27k kms my plugs are well on the way for replacement at the 30k km major service and the K&N airfilter may need a clean and re-oil, as it has done 16k kms of work?

Maybe it's all down to some variable quality of fuel on offer here on the darkside? Maybe it's conflicting marketing material between suppliers.....

Anyway, good to hear others are fine with O2 dongles. I don't doubt Rottweiler as they know more than I'll ever know.

I hope to get the newfangled module installed soon and do some kms so I can note any changes. Come on weather gods, give me a break......:rolleyes:

PS more rainy weather..... great for the grass/putting some of our bush fires out...... but it's so humid when the sun comes out ....... will I get a ride in this summer:censored:....... arghhh, I've got a huge pile of washing to do tooo....... that's life :LOL:.
 

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Don't feel pregnant, it's 30F here with freezing rain and I don't even get the stitches out of my clutch hand for 4 more days. Elected to get my thumb fixed and missed a week-and-a-half of fine riding days.
 
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