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Mine is right there under the seat next to the battery. But it's rarely necessary to charge a LiFePo battery. Mines mainly for a place to plug in my phone charger.
 

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Mr704, my bike came with an SAE 'tender' connector that ran on the left side of bike, from battery to just in front of the airbox and is zip tied to the top of the orange frame. If you take off the seat it is easy to route. It is very tidy - can't even see it when it is tucked away.

I have a Shorai Life-po now, but I used when the stock battery was in there.


j
 

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...removed SAS and charcoal canister, manual fan switch...
More details please! I have been thinking of removing the SAS as is 2Cati. Did you buy a block off plate? Did you need to short out anything to prevent FI light?

Manual fan switch? Still comes on at temp but you can override? Where? How much?

Don't be a tease!


j
 

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Discussion Starter #25
More details please! I have been thinking of removing the SAS as is 2Cati. Did you buy a block off plate? Did you need to short out anything to prevent FI light?

Manual fan switch? Still comes on at temp but you can override? Where? How much?

Don't be a tease!


j
I saw you reply on the how to thread I started about it I think I answered all your questions on there. If I didn't let me know and I'll gladly do so. I'll be adding to it.

Yep works exactly the way you mentioned it. Alternative to having to replace your thermostat and waiting for it to hit the certain temp for it to come on. This way if you know your going to be sitting where it's going to heat up you switch it on before it even does. Also cheaper here's the link if you want to pick one up.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/261529028303?nav=SEARCH
 

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I got my tank shroud cover molded, smoothed out (mostly) and boxed.



Also got a heap done with the hard cover (finally), no pics.
 

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I washed my bike and the next day it didnt start. Gave out FI code 84 which is 8 slow blinks and 4 fast blinks. Looked at the manual and it mentions the throttle fault. So I opened up the Throttle By Wire housing and blew some air and MAGIC, it started. So if you ever wash you bike and get any throttle code faults, then I would recommend drying out your TBW housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I washed my bike and the next day it didnt start. Gave out FI code 84 which is 8 slow blinks and 4 fast blinks. Looked at the manual and it mentions the throttle fault. So I opened up the Throttle By Wire housing and blew some air and MAGIC, it started. So if you ever wash you bike and get any throttle code faults, then I would recommend drying out your TBW housing.
Good to know thanks for sharing!
 

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~20,000 km service...

Reached 19,948 km and had a long bank holiday weekend, so...

I popped off valve cover: All clean, tight and well oiled.

Valve clearances: 1 Year Service, about right (0.10mm fitted 3 tightly and one perfectly)

Rocker rollers: Both admission and exhaust good, no axial play and smooth movement. Rocker shafts had acceptable wear.

Cam chain tension: Nice and tight and very little side movement of the chain on the cam sprocket, as per the Rally Raid manual.

Fuel tank: Flushed, some black particles plastic, metallic and even some sand came out together with RHS fuel tap screen which I cleaned and reinstalled.

In-tank fuel filter: 2 years / 4,235 km since last changed...full of black particulates when flushed, some of which ferrous since they stuck to a magnet. Flow also felt restricted when I blew through it. I suspect black dust is from the fuel pump bearings or armature and brushes! So it isn’t an OEM only problem, but also affects the California Cycleworks pump. Need to change the filter annually regardless of mileage! Someone really needs to work on a brushless pump.

In-line fuel screen: 2 years / 4,235 km since installed, was darkened but without big particles, air flow however felt restricted when I blew through the fuel rail. Need to clean screen annually regardless of mileage!

Fuel injector: 1 Year / 3,855 km since last service (Ultrasonic bath) Removed and reverse purged with pressurised carb cleaner, then purged the correct way as I don’t have access to an ultrasonic bath here. Result: beautiful and even jet.

Spark plug: A bit pale for my liking, may be due to obstruction along the fuel circuit i.e. in-tank fuel filter, in-line fuel filter or injector. Thoroughly cleaned plug and applied dielectric grease to nipple.

Put it all back together and went for a quick ride… After doing all this I noticed a clear increase in performance especially in acceleration from low revs. Idle was also steady and smooth. Much more enjoyable ride and this goes to show how fuel circuit maintenance or lack of can affect performance!
 

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I rode mine today, with ABS off. The rear brake on this bike is the best I've ever ridden. It's amazing and a blast what you can do with it entering a corner. Maybe some of the credit goes to the freaking amazing slipper clutch that let's you really know what the brake is doing without the engine locking things up on downshifts. :)
 

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After buying my '13 Duke two weeks ago with 2,000 miles on it, I decided to install the Leo Vince De-Cat that came with it because two days from now, I will have Kev's fuel and o2 mod at my door. I stripped the nut plate on the clamp that connects the mid pipe to silencer. I am going to attempt to use my tap and die set at work tomorrow and hope I can get some threads back in that thing. It is a 27$ clamp (set of two).
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Do it. The RCS15 transforms the feel and performance of the brakes.


j
Yea buddy! I have it on my other bikes..well the 19 but yea I'll be getting it just trying to hold off on buying it so I don't do everything at once so I can feel the differences. Makes it more exciting that way too for me at least haha.
 
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