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2003 300 EXC leak down test fail

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4.5K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  Mighty Shee  
#1 · (Edited)
Split case on 2003 300 EXC, replaced crank bearings and crank seals and put in a new top end. Did a leak down test and absolutely no air is leaking from anywhere on the outside of the motor (intake, cylinder base, cylinder head, in between case halves, leak down tester, left side crank seal) I wasn’t able to test the right side crank seal because I wasn’t able to remove the clutch cover without having to remove the cylinder. I pumped 6 psi and lost all 6 psi within 1 min. I suspect air is leaking from cylinder into the right side of the power valve and into the clutch side since the clutch case gasket doesn’t seem to go over parts of the case cover. Is it possible this is normal? It seems like air enters the left side power valve opening of the cylinder because air was escaping from the left side cover, but no longer is because I have since used three bond to seal it. This is why I’m assuming air is leaking into the right side of the cylinder and into the power valve opening. Where can the air leak be happening?
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#2 ·
No worries. O rings on pv are notorious leakers. Don't fret that. Common leakdown point . Heavy dose of assembly grease will slow but not stop leak for testing but no need to worry about this leak point. Won't hurt anything. Its under positive pressure during engine operation. This is why your pv chamber is full of black oil spooge after engine runs for awhile. Pressure testing should keep a continuous low pressure in crankcase to allow testing of seals and gasket joints. Glycerin leak test liquids are sprayed on suspect areas for testing while under pressure. 5-10 psi is adequate. 15 psi and above can push air past crank seals. Soapy water can be used for external leak test but use care with soapy water inside motor and bearings. Be sure to coat insides with oil first to prevent water from rusting engine bearings or steel parts
 
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#3 ·
Is the PV O-ring you’re referring to the one I’ve circled in black in the picture below? Also, is it normal that air passes into the PV areas I’ve also highlighted in black in the second pic (Both on the left and right side of the cylinder) or do I need to remove the small gearing inside that circled PV chamber to get to an O-ring?
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#4 ·
Yes and yes. The seal from case to cylinder o ring won't hold pressure for more than half a minute. The second picture shows leakage under the cover. Also normal. The o rings are trying to seal a large bore and can't use much surface tension to seal without binding pv at normal (hot) operating temperature. I use regulator to apply constant 5psi and test all leak possibilities with spray of light oil (WD40) and watch for leak. Constant air supply keeps pressure on for test. Most motors leak down past pv in less than a minute unless constant pressure is applied
 
#5 ·
I guess I’ll keep continuous pressure of about 6 psi with a hand pump and will check for leaks around intake, cylinder base/head, case (where gasket mates the case halves) and not worry about air escaping through the right side PV opening on of the cylinder. Thank you