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Considering used Duke 690

13K views 44 replies 15 participants last post by  newjerseyduke  
#1 ·
I'm in San Francisco and looking to get back on a bike. My favorite bikes so far have been my farkled out '95 KLR650 and an '08 SV650S. Put them together and add a little meanness and you get a Duke 690...right? :smile2:

I see a couple 2013 models on Craigslist for $5000-6900 and a 2015 for $7500. Ideally I'd love a 2017 (for the smoooooth ride, rider modes, and nice dash) but out the door price around here is close to $11000 and that's out of my budget.

What are the significant differences between 2013 and 2015? I'm going to use it mainly for city riding and tearing around the Bay Area, with some 8 hour trips up to Oregon.

Are there any known issues with either year I should look out for?

Will I be miserable with an 8 hour highway ride on the 690? I'm 6'2 and felt a little cramped on the SV after more than 3 or 4 hours, but that was the slightly more aggressive S -- no idea how I'd have fared on the naked.

Thanks in advance!

For reference:
2013 $5000: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/5954846050.html
2013 $6899: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcd/5938108318.html
2015 $7499: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcd/5927406059.html
 
#2 · (Edited)
Don't buy those....buy mine. Already completely set up and ready to rock. 6000 and about 500 to ship. Check classifieds

Why buy a 2013 with 24K mile for $5K when you can buy a 2013 with 4K miles for 6K?

**And just to answer your question...there is seriously not even close to enough things changed on the 2015 to opt for the extra money. But that is your call and its your money so buy what makes you happy.

Part 3 of my for sale


Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
Don't buy those....buy mine. Already completely set up and ready to rock. 6000 and about 500 to ship.
Not a bad deal. Must be hard to sell over there right now...winter and everything.
 
#8 ·
For reference, I live in Redwood City and bought mine from a guy in San Jose. It was $5K for an immaculate 5K mile 2014. The biggest thing to check is whether it is burning oil I think. My example didn't burn any, but two others I asked the owners about were going through more than a quart every 1K miles.

I'm between 6'1" and 6'2" and it fits me nicely. Was an adjustment going back to a smaller bike, but it is a hoot when you hoon around with it.
 
#11 ·
for the 2016+, you get 1000RPM, slightly less buzz, and a dash you can't see when it's bright.

the 2012-2015 has the 3 modes already, the dash is boring as **** but has exactly what you need, and you can install the Evo kit which makes it a hell of a little bastard to rip around on.

and the frame is orange.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I didn't know the 3 modes came on the older years. They're there even on the non-R version?

The 6k valve interval is news too. That's seriously short. I'm handy with a wrench (own a KLR...), how complicated is it to get the valve cover off and take a measurement? Easy to do in an hour or two, or better to take to a dealer if I don't have a full garage available?

On that note, for my Bay Area locals, roughly how much would a dealer charge for a valve adjustment? $100? $500? I've always done all my own work on my bikes so I wouldn't know what to estimate.

Thanks everyone!
 
#13 ·
You get three modes that are purely throttle position mapping on the non-R version. All these do is change how sensitive the throttle motion is, they don't change fueling at all.

I did my first valve service ever (had previously only done oil changes) late last year in ~2.5 hrs (with lots of going back inside to look at walkthrough). I think I could do it again in less than 1.5 hrs. I did this after I was quoted $450 for the adjustment. Hardest part is getting main wiring harness out of the way from the secondary air injection system and getting to those bolts. If you remove your emissions stuff, it would literally be a 30 min job.
 
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#14 ·
There is a dial under the passenger seat to change the modes. So it's not a flip through a menu deal, but it takes about 30 seconds.

takes about 30 minutes to get to the valves.

I installed a manual tensioner, the evo cam, and the valve shims in about 2 hours, first time I had ever taken it apart.

Maybe a plus to some, but if you leave it stock they also hover around 60mpg.
 
#17 ·
What year is yours? I heard there were issues with the automatic tensioner for a certain year range. And why did you swap the cam, less vibration?
 
#18 ·
2013

Peace of mind. I've never liked hydraulic tensioners on any motors. If you get catastrophic oil loss, you MIGHT*** shut it off in time to stop any major damage to the cylinder, but if it jumps teeth your head is ****ed.

The cam adds something like 8hp with the map, and it moves the power band right up to the redline. I liked the punchy bottom end, but you lose so little swapping cams it makes the redline pull much better.
 
#19 ·
Two other things to note when comparing 2013 to 2015 models at least in North America.

2015 models come stock with the newer design rocker arms that the 2013 and 2014 models upgrade to. If you search the forum you will get a better idea of the rocker arm issues that the early years faced. I have a 2015 so I never paid much attention to those threads, might be significant might not.

2015 white models (pretty sure black is the same but don't own one) have colour matched subframes which IMO makes a huge difference over the look of the bike, no more grey from the 2013 / 2014's! Factory graphics are a tad different in 2015 and I believe both black and white models came standard with a black front fender vs the white models having a white fender in 2013 / 2014.
 
#20 ·
Not having posted one of my short and to the point, with no rambling, replies, for quite awhile I have the following thoughts about getting a 690 Duke:

I have been riding for over 50 years without taking any significant breaks, and, I have owned and ridden a lot of motorcycles. At the present, a lone 2015 690 Duke sits in my garage with very low miles on it because I find that vibrations are so severe that within about half an hour my hands get so numb that I can not feel the controls. I suffer from nerve damage in my hands, so they are more fragile than most, I imagine, but, when I did some research about the vibrations, after I rode my new KTM, I found that almost everyone commented on how bad they were.

Every single other thing about riding the KTM is top notch, with some possible limitations in suspension, depending on rider weight and how hard the bike is pushed. About as light fully fueled as any freeway legal street bike out there; premium rubber; nice big brakes; and, more than adequate power for those not desiring jail time. It was the only really acceptable upgrade that I could find after 7 years with a Suzuki DR-Z SM, which, I might add, really shows what a great bike the Suzuki is as it proved to be basically maintenance free, other than its appetite for tires and a few oil changes, and, a really solid handling bike. I finally just wanted the ability to sprint a bit harder than the DR-Z was capable of, and, also, I believed KTM's hype about the balance shaft and the "smooth" big single, so, I hoped that I would get a better highway bike, 6 speed and taller gearing factored in, than the DR-Z. I might also add that I nearly crashed the KTM when I initially went for a ride about on some twisty roads since the KTM, with its low cg and all, was so much more responsive to light inputs than the heavy handling, top heavy, Suzuki, that I was over steering initially. Now, I do not think about it anymore since proper bikes are supposed to have telepathic handling, like the 690 Duke has, are they not?

But, as stated the vibrations of the KTM were a lot harsher than I anticipated and,in my case, it has been frustrating as I am long past my Hayabusa days and, while some hanker for more power, for me, everything about the Duke is nearly perfect other than the massive shakes. But, if the shaking is not an issue for a rider, the Duke rocks in its element. When things get technical, I never notice the vibration and I definitely start grinning in my helmet. Nothing like a nice light bike with good manners, that has considerable punch at canyon speeds (I also have 15/42 gearing as I avoid highways and it enhances the punch off corners and away from stop lights).

I am not discussing the costs of ownership, as the 690 Duke is not inexpensive to care for. But, one should know that before purchasing a KTM. And, this is only my personal point of view about the Duke. I know that numb hands are not good to have, but, I still have had some nice rides on the Duke as it has character. Unfortunately, that character encourages lifting the front wheel under acceleration and slicing corners like the lightweight it is. I am always tempted to go rouge when I get on the KTM, and me a totally law abiding rider at all times. I'd say that the 690 Duke is a rider's bike and it screams to be ridden as such should be ridden. Which means that even those that want more power and performance really could easily get in sufficient trouble with the performance of the 690. Mine scoots right up to 100 MPH (not that I would do that), a speed at which the police could arrest you on the spot for. So, if a person is not a crazed street rider as far as top speeds go, the 690 Duke really has plenty.

My KTM is still sitting in the garage as I really like it other than the shakes. And, I know that come Spring, I will wish to have a motorcycle to ride. The upright standard riding position is a real plus urban settings, and I also favor it in canyons and the like. Each time I ride the 690, I want to keep it as, in my case, especially around town, the bike rules. Remember that we can legally split lanes in California and the 690 Duke, with 15/42 gearing, is an excellent leaver from a traffic light. This quality is valuable when one has split their way to the front of the traffic stopped at a traffic light, as, in Southern California, it is every man for themselves once the light goes green and the last of the vehicles that are running the red as it turns clears the intersection. With the 690 Duke, you can just let out the clutch with no fuss and pull off with the front tire just sort of skipping a bit as it lifts a few inches now and then. You will be rewarded by the sight of little tiny dots in your rear view mirrors as the cages lumber away from the light. So, the 690 is great for a lot of things, but, clearly, it will never be a bike for everyone.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Not having posted one of my short and to the point, with no rambling, replies, for quite awhile I have the following thoughts about getting a 690 Duke:

I have been riding for over 50 years without taking any significant breaks, and, I have owned and ridden a lot of motorcycles. At the present, a lone 2015 690 Duke sits in my garage with very low miles on it because I find that vibrations are so severe that within about half an hour my hands get so numb that I can not feel the controls. I suffer from nerve damage in my hands, so they are more fragile than most, I imagine, but, when I did some research about the vibrations, after I rode my new KTM, I found that almost everyone commented on how bad they were.
Have you tried heavier bar end weights to take out some of the vibrations? Helped a ton when I changed the gearing on my Aprilia RSV 1000 R.
 
#25 ·
I bought my duke sight unseen, but I'm a bit of an idiot.

I dont really notice the vibrations as much with my new softer grips but they were an issue for me initially.
Coming from 10years of sports bikes I initially I felt like I was going to fall over the handlebars before I adjusted to the seating position.

Oh and the bike was way too twitchy for me, the previous owner had the "throttle map" set to race, I now use soft.

I wasn't a fan of the stock seat I felt like I would slide off, the powerparts one is great.

Now the bike is great and I only really commute but sometimes I wish I had more power.
My new Polish coworker is trying to convince me to join his online ride group and go on long 400km rides every weekend, I might go this weekend and see how the bike fares.
 
#26 ·
I had only one reason for buying the Duke and that was to race it . I have no misgivings about the harsh throttle response except from pit garage to track. These foibles are not noticable at full noise, yay for that. I have the utmost respect for those of you who commute and tour on them and understand why the O2 sensor, gearing, airbox stuff comes into play... me Im like a fat kid at Willy Wonkas when I race it.
 
#30 ·
If the vibes are a BIG issue, and you don't want to buy new, then wait around for a used 2016. I am 65yo and just got back from my annual "boys" trip - 2500km in 5 days (610km in the first day) and I can't say ANYTHING bad about the bike except the seat - I probably have an old soft b.m. As for parts, I am not convinced that they are any more expensive than other Euro brands. My 2 oil filters cost no more than 2 filters from my Jap bikes, and less than my BMW ones. The oil is expensive (I used Motorex for the first service but will probably change to the cheaper Putoline next time) BUT you only use 2 litres instead of the 4 that often goes into other bikes. I have just bought an Ergo seat and it was US$108 + shipping...not expensive in my view. So, for me, at this point in my KTM "experience" (including the 2014 I owned for 6 months from Sep 15 - Mar 16) I am very happy. At Tetge said earlier, there is NOTHING out there that beats the ride experience of a lightweight, powerful, responsive single in the twisties. The difference with the 2016 is that is now also a highway bike (assuming sane speeds which here in NZ is 110-115kph).
 
#31 ·
Yeah I'm set on buying one now just have to figure out the logistics of actually doing that. I got some insurance quotes and DAMN they are much higher than I am used to...but I am also getting full coverage for this bike with high limits on uninsured protection.

Anyway I am weary of buying an out of state bike and trying to get it registered in CA -- haven't gone through that process before. If anyone has experience with that on a "new" (less than 7500 miles) Duke please let me know. I hear the taxes are high but haven't found any measure for what "high" means.
 
#32 ·
Unless you are forced to do so... Lending Company makes you.. Carry only Comp/ theft/ fire ... these bastards are built to last! You can low side them and ... go happily home. Just my 2c.
 
#38 ·
But if you don't carry collision and instead just had uninsured driver, your insurance company would still go after hers! You also obviously have a much more premium bike.
 
#41 ·
Dang, that DOES suck.
 
#44 ·