[off-road-biker]

NO, it doesn't work with the newer engines!
Last engine that function with this solution is 690 Duke 3R (-2011), 690 SMC-R (-13)

The new throttle body starting from 690 Duke 4 (2012-) / 690 SMC-R (2014-) and also all Husqvarna 701 haven't the possibility anymore to adjust the TPS! :.( Damned!

 

[gokes]

Thanks for the advice - too bad it won't work.

I'd like to expand on the conversation. It sounds like if the bike is lean, the fix is mapping.

But my questions is - what can be done after putting on a full system to improve bottom end power? That is, what can be done to compensate for lost back pressure of a cat?

That is, is mapping the solution? Or, do air box modifications help too? Or something else? Note that my bike is '17, so the racing cam is not applicable.

 

[off-road-biker]

Best but illegal – open Airbox and add (must!) a Powercommander, Kastl, rapid Bike etc with mapping that match to your configuration

That's what I did!

 

[sf_ds]

Best but illegal – open Airbox and add (must!) a Powercommander, Kastl, rapid Bike etc with mapping that match to your configuration

That's what I did!

Any idea if opening up the airbox (drilling/cutting or buying the precut KTM one) risks allowing water into the airbox? I won't be doing river crossings on the Duke but what about riding in heavy rain, or letting it sit outside uncovered during a rain storm? Water ingress is my only concern with airbox mods.

The stage 2 filtered airbox side cover doesn't allow water in from what I have read. That's another option.

 

[gokes]

Best but illegal – open Airbox and add (must!) a Powercommander, Kastl, rapid Bike etc with mapping that match to your configuration

That's what I did!

Thanks for the info - I actually do have a PCV on my bike, with the Dynoworks map for my setup (Full Arrow, stock air filter). But I'm still getting the results I described. I think my options are the following:

1. Get rid of the full exhaust - the noise annoys me anyways
2. Get a custom map for the PCV
3. Do an airbox mod (e.g. DNA Stage 1 + Stage 2) and then get a custom map

SO my question is - what gains do you get from airbox aside from noise?

Any idea if opening up the airbox (drilling/cutting or buying the precut KTM one) risks allowing water into the airbox? I won't be doing river crossings on the Duke but what about riding in heavy rain, or letting it sit outside uncovered during a rain storm? Water ingress is my only concern with airbox mods.

The stage 2 filtered airbox side cover doesn't allow water in from what I have read. That's another option.

I'm concerned about this too. I read through the many old thread there are on this, and what I took away is DNA S2 is the way to go. It doesn't allow in water, and it was the only thing people consistently seemed to think made a difference.

 

[Weldertron]

Even if water makes it into the air box, it drains out the bottom. If you're really worried, just cut holes on the backside, which is where the battery is, mostly sealed up.

Opening the box will most likely make it even leaner however.

 

[off-road-biker]

Sorry haven't the time to translate everything in English

Just read this two threads. I put them in Google translator.
And yes it is worth to sign in at Europe's largest KTMforum also it's German language

690 Duke 4: Tuningküche reloaded - Duke-IV Stage-II

690 Duke 4: Tuningküche reloaded - Duke-IV Stage-III

And this:
Airbox water drainage
Due to the now created holes in the "unclean" area, water can get into the airbox when washing – not by rain.
But there is no hole in the unclean area!
You should drill a drain hole: see pictures!

 

[gokes]

You're probably running too lean still. Do you have an autotune to check AFR?

Be careful with baffles. I run a Yoshimura R-77 put on by the previous owner and the db killer/baffle shot right out according to him. The slip on has exploded 3 times and Yoshi rebuilt it each time, the last using a stronger metal casing and it has been fine since then. I called Yoshimura last week to inquire about getting a db killer because I was concerned about the lack of backpressure and noise -- they told me that due to how often these slip ons explode on Dukes I would be running a high risk of it bursting again if I ran with a baffle in. Too much pressure. These engines move a LOT of air on every single stroke. A 650cc twin moves 325cc (650/2) of air on each stroke, a four cyl even less. We get the full 690cc each turn. At least that's my understanding of things, I could be wrong.

As for Laguna, there's a local guy who makes a sort of cheater J pipe that redirects the exhaust and noise out of the end of the muffler in such a way that it points away from the sound booth at the track. Worth looking into. Apparently it's a popular option.

I just started another thread on this, but thought I'd also expand a little here.

I just talked to Mark at Factory Pro about tuning the Duke:

- He said that with the Arrow exhaust (and most aftermarket in general) some bluing is to be expected even when the bike IS properly tuned. He said that this is because the aftermarket pipes are single layered, while the OEMs are double layered

- He said that he just tuned a 2017 701 SM and he WAS able to tune ignition timing with the PCV, and that infact that was where they spent the majority of their time / got the majority of improvements.
@sf_ds I know you're interested in cost. Factory Pro is $375 for fuel tuning + $100 for ignition timing.

 

[sf_ds]

Ha that's funny, I just spoke with him at length too and he told me the same things.

That's a ton of money for tuning though :/

I'm certain it's worth it but it's tough to pony up vs. settling for autotune.

 

[gokes]

Ha that's funny, I just spoke with him at length too and he told me the same things.

That's a ton of money for tuning though :/

I'm certain it's worth it but it's tough to pony up vs. settling for autotune.

Yep - agree with that. But, I think I'll still end up going the tuning route.

Autone is probably smarter though, in part because it actually has resale value.

 

[690arrr]

sf i dont understand how it wont power wheely even in 3rd gear?

A stock 690r with stock gearing will power wheely in 2nd gear with no effort all day long.

15/42 will pop it up in 3rd with almost no effort as well without the clutch

 

[690arrr]

actually i dont even know of a stock bike in australia that wont wheely in 1st gear right off the showroom floor?

Even if it was half its power our little RC390 will power wheely in 1st gear no problem at all with 42rwhp

 

[sf_ds]

I bet an R would act like that, but here in the US we only have the non-R versions meaning we lack the better pipe, better airbox, better cam, and better mapping (among other things like suspension).

I'm inching closer to modding mine like the R but so far I only have the pipe without the airbox or mapping, so it's running too lean for optimal power, plus the loss of backpressure (due to a straight through exhaust without a db killer/baffle/silencer in the muffler) causes some torque loss at low RPMs.

You all have it quite good with your R models out there :smile2:

 

[690arrr]

yours must be really bad as I have ridden the stock non-R version here in Oz and it wheelies all day long.

Hope it sorts itself out as owning the 690 and not wheelying should be made a crime >

 

[off-road-biker]

I bet an R would act like that, but here in the US we only have the non-R versions meaning we lack the better pipe, better airbox, better cam, and better mapping (among other things like suspension).

airbox, cam and mapping is same non-R vs R

 

[sf_ds]

airbox, cam and mapping is same non-R vs R

Really? My info is all wrong, sorry for the confusion. Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[sf_ds]

Doing a 15 min reset on a cold day helps make the bike peppier all around, but it's still not perfect.

I've removed the SAS and canister, using a SmartMoto blanking plate (eBay) and the Rotweiler dongle + throttle body plug.

This has cleaned up my engine area, lessened weight, added extra room under the passenger seat, and most importantly nearly eliminated popping on deceleration!

I've done the valves and found an intake to be on the tight side and an exhaust to be on the loose side, both at the limits of the spec. Now all valves are in the middle measuring 0.10mm gap.

I also installed fresh spark plugs to replace the beat ones that I'm sure were original (11.5k miles) and sprayed the coils with contact cleaner.

This made the engine quieter and less rattly, smoother, and more responsive. Very happy with the results.

Finally I had the hole in my Fresco decat welded and that not only makes the bike sound better and less rattly but I think it also improves throttle response ever so slightly.

The hanger tab on the decat got ripped off the pipe, leaving a ~1cm diameter hole in the pipe. No idea how it happened, I bought the bike that way.

The welder noted that the metal around where the hanger attached was thinner than the rest of the pipe. Manufacturing defect perhaps? He filled the hole and laid down some steel around the area to reinforce it when the hanger was reattached. Top job and cheaper than a new decat.



Right now my bike is running a lot better but it still feels weaker than it ought to, it stalls at lights much less, and it doesn't sound like the engine will shake itself apart. I'm close to having it nice and smooth but fueling is still really inconsistent to the point where I take corners like a sissy because I won't risk having it cut or surge while I'm leaned over.

Next up: cleaning the fuel injector and fuel filter. If my suspicions are correct that should restore some more power and make the fueling more predictable. After that I'll fit a PCV and richen it a little across the range before I have the time and money to get it properly tuned.

 

[A.J.s Duke]

question ? On my 2017 390 duke dose running all factory exhaust and just removing the silencer lean the bike out to the point of damage?