I was just having the no Neutral light issue recently. I suspect it's the shift sensor, but it kinda just went away after a good wash. I still think it's probably going to come back soon. I have a complete engine as a spare for when this one dies, but swapping the sensor looked kinda intimidating. I had an idea though, with the clutch in and sidestand up, and the bike rolling forward it should start. I have stalled it in gear before, but while the bike is rolling it will start with the clutch in, even in gear. Might want to have someone push you forward to test this theory, but it's just that, a theory.

 

Would it be possible for you to take a video with your mobile device and upload to like YouTube to share here? It will help us diagnose.

That said, if its electrical -

1. If the Kickstand switch is bad, it would not matter of the stand is up and you are in neutral. Think about it - the switch could still be telling the CANBUS system its down.
2. Have you replaced the battery? 95% of our issues are battery related. It may seem like a strong battery...even test at 12+v at rest...but what is it when you hit the starter? If it drops below I believe 10.5v (someone correct me), it will not start.

If its not electrical..when were the valves last adjusted? These are all things I would consider.

 

No clue when valves were last adjusted and I tried to start it with a battery charger running to it so it shouldn’t be battery (12.5 volts when trying to start)

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/superduke/s/CaZJAFI7AY

Here is a video

 

Still not seeing a neutral light, try jiggling the shifter to see if it at least blinks on even for a second. This WAS the issue for my bike not starting the same way yours is in the video. Once the N light is on, the starter button will work and it would start, but still don't have a reason why it wouldn't come on for a couple days, but since then it has been fine. Without the N light, it was exactly the same as yours right now.

 

@Jacksonpolarbear - And your starter switch button, which you cleaned, DOES indeed have continuity all the way to the relay? (Sounds like you are competent to test this for signal).

My suggestion then would be to push the starter button WHILE moving the handlebars back and forth (just to check for an intermittent broken wire).

Sounds like also you have tested continuity from the starter switch button to at least the plug where the switchgear plugs into the harness. If you have, then maybe it is from that plug to the relay.

What happens if you apply 12v directly to starter solenoid? Does it try to start?

 

I tested the actual starter button for continuity and it seemed okay. It could definitely be a wire from the starter button though. The old starter relay definitely looked like the previous owner was jumping it from there so I could try that.

 

I’m not sure where all the wires run to so I need to do some more research that way I can test them all the way.

 

The more I think on this, the more I am curious about your starter relay ground. You are able to crank it when you have the jump cables hooked: Did you have the Negative terminal on your battery hooked to the negative jump wire? And what happens if you ONLY hook the positive jump wire from battery to battery, and ground the negative cable end to your frame vs the battery terminal?

So both cables on jump battery to bike battery
then both cables on jump battery, but only positive on bike battery and negative on the frame or somewhere like

I am wondering if you have a bad ground. Check your earth from battery to frame. Check the starter relay ground.

I think you drop voltage which causes the ECU not to let you start.

I'd still replace with a brand new fresh battery regardless. One less variable. A battery can show good voltage but not have the starting cranking amps (bad cell)

 

I am wondering if you have a bad ground. Check your earth from battery to frame. Check the starter relay ground.

Good thought. Over the years there has been a few times where even if my cables were tight, there is a slight corrosion that forms between the cable lug and the Terminal. Its like an almost invisible film, but a scrape off with the screwdriver in my tool kit got it working again, and now, about every 6 months I do a wire brushing and coat it with dielectric grease for good measure.